TWM Stack Air filter
 

So the time is fast approaching where my engine meets the body...

I haven't thought about an air filter much forthe TWM stacks. The TWM system doesn't come with any. TWM offers a single element air filter box for $500 but it covers the pretty stacks!! What have others done to filter the air?

Got a call from Tony at Keith Craft the dyno results for my 427w w/ TWM pull 606HP and 587 TRQ. :)

606....that should just about do it!

Not my car, but something like this might work for you:

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4161/stacks1pw.png

Anyhow I wonder if these small filters will allow enough airflow for 606hp?

Simon

Roush sells a "slip-on" filter for each stack. Provides protection and is easily removed. Have seen this on a later >1000 SPF. No hood clearance problems.

I have ordered one to try with my Webers. Below is a picture of the Ram-flo filters I currently have. They may work with your stacks but do not "slip-on." Takes a little time to remove or replace.

I am currently using the screens but they restrict the air flow and only keep ot boulders!

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...93IM000489.JPG

To see the Roush filters, download their catalog:

http://www.roushperformance.com/

It is on the last 2-3 pages of the catalog. I believe the are in the $40 range each. Hope that helps.

Good luck!!

This is the air cleaner set up that came with my injection set up.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/FI.jpg

It also has the small filters that cover the individual stacks.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/FI_Stack.jpg

I will have the motor on the dyno next week and then will know which filter has better flow. My gut tells me it will be the larger system, but the individual filters show off the injection system better and look COOL.

Dick

This one is only 13/4"tall.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...021_Small_.jpg

I am having the same issue, have since I bought the car with the IR injection (custom built) from the previous owner. He CNC'd a rather unattractive filter box out of high temp teflon butcher block type material with a corvetter panel filter on it. While this may breathe very well and filter very well, its ugly. I have been looking for a single filter for each stack myself, but just can't find anything as the top of each stack is almost 4 inches wide. Even the filter screens shown above won't fit, nor will the Roush based K&N filters. I think I have decided to buy a couple different filters from K&N that might fit and try them out. There are a few with long flange necks on them that would stick down into the stack and would be very easy to remove. Let me know if anyone finds anything they feel will work for my setup as well. Thanks.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...stackinj11.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...um/cobra45.jpg


http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...98-engine1.jpg

James

Wow!! Thanks for all the great replys and pics. It looks like a lot of folks still are looking for a great fix. I am expecting the HP numbers to drop signifigantly due to filters and 1 7/8" headers (not the 2"s it was tested with). But I would like to minimize the effect of the filters but still "filter" the air.

Cobra V8- I think you are right, I don't think the flat top filter will breath well.

Terry- I like the look of the K&N filters but I'm not a believer in their capabilities of filtering as independent test have shown.

Lamaluv- Are you doing three dyno runs? no filter, big filter, individual filters. I am intersted in your results. What brand is the first picture you posted?

Alderson- Those are some mighty stacks! It does look effective. But I agree with you assesment of its looks. What type of torque are you making? The material looks like HDPE- nothing sticks to it, can't even paint it! I have the standard TWM stacks which are not as large as yours.

Any other ideas?

Rwillia4,

Yes, I am stacked to the max. They look a lot bigger than they really are, at least from a height perspective. They are only 4 inches high, but they were custom spun to match the 56mm throttle bodies, so they are much wider than the average stack, making them look huge.

I have talked to a few smart guys about this filtering problem, and what they all told me was that you can either breathe well, or look good, there is nothing in the middle. My big filter box (as well as that one from TWM) are ugly, but do what we ask of them very well, breathe and filter. Its like a woman, if you marry a super model, don't expect a home cooked meal waiting for you every night, but damn do they ever look good. So, I have decided to have the two solutions do what they are supposed to for their missions, and switch them out when I need them to change. I will keep the ugly but efficient solution for the track, and individual filters for normal driving where I don't need all the HP. I also am having a machine shop build me some brackets that take the angle out of the stacks at the throttle body. They will basically staighten the stacks so they look more weber like... I know it will screw air flow a little, but the stacks on these systems don't do much but staighten/speed up the air and look good, but they are not required by any stretch of the imagination. I also think this will require two different tunes of the ECU to be switchable as well. 98% of my driving will be on the street with only the occasional WOT, so I won't be switching them around every day or anything. This is based on the advice I have recieved from several people. I actually thought long and hard about pulling the EFI off the car and going back to a carb, although a VERY good one like the Barry Grant Race Demon... but I can't do it.

This is a copy of a chassis dyno done to compare the old Might Demon 850 carb with Victor Jr. intake to this efi setup on the exact same setup in my car. The lines are a little wobbly because the injection and spark curve tune were not perfect (not even close) when I got the car. Much smoother now, but my ECU is a MegaSquirt which works but will be replaced with a Haltech when my wife gives me back access to our account...lol.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...-efi-dyno1.jpg

With some recent drivetrain efficiency improvments, I am guessing I am 580-600 HP at the engine.

Anyway, sorry for the ramble, but I have spent entire days looking for a solution to this same filtration problem and talked to lots of folks. I have one last shop to talk to that will certainly have lots of experience in this stuff... Holman Moody.. 10 mines from my house.

James

Well there actually is a third solution: incorporate the filter housing in the air scoop, so you'll have filtration and enough airflow when the car is driven, and uncovered, shiny stacks when you open the hood.

Look at this picture from the CC galleries:

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/7423/weberlf1pt.jpg

However this will only work for straight stacks.


James, why do you want to replace the Megasquirt? I'm having a stack injection setup here waiting to be installed, and I planned on using the Megasquirt as it seems cost effective and user friendly.

Simon

Now that is an option...what user did you get this picture off of? I couldn't find it in CC gallery and would like to see if there is more detailed pictures and possibly talk to the owner. I had been told I could do this by the previous owner, but one problem might be engine movement. I think it could work even with my stacks being angled towards each other, just a little more design involved, and not sure there is enough clearance to straighten my stacks up AND put a system like that on.

MegaSquirt.... well, I guess it comes down to software. Be prepared to go through a HUGE learning curve. If you have worked with other systems software, and have EFI tuning experience, you will be fine. I am an amateur in this stuff to say the least, so I tried to find someone who could tune it, and found VERY little experience around here. Its not a bad system, but if you ask alot of people who deal with this stuff all the time, they don't have anything good to say about it. Are you going with the MegaSquirt and Spark or staying distributor? Keep me posted if you can, I am interested to see how it goes. I did a lot of research regarding ECU's and Haltech seemed like the best bang for the buck.

James

Unfortunately I don't remember whose car this is. I saved the pic on my hard disk for reference purpose with my stack injection system in mind.
I might have copied the pic from some CC thread and not the galleries, but I'm sure it is from this website.

Maybe the owner is the guy in front of the car? If this was my Cobra it would certainly put a smile on my face ;)



Simon

Rwillia4,

I plan on doing three dyno runs, one with the present 4 brl Holley, one with the FI big filter set up and one with the individual FI filters. Running no filters is not an option for me so I'm not planning to do a dyno run without filters. The FI system in my first picture is by Imagine Injection http://www.imagineinjection.com


Dick

the 289 fia car is owned by larry davi in california. the k&n filters work just fine i use them on my sprint car! i have never used filters on my cobra i just made a convex screen and put it at the bottom of the stacks so you could not see it. i ran it that way for about 6 years. jim

This picture was taken at Santa Barbara Wheels and Waves car show. The guy that makes the Roush filters is
Clay Cook
C. Cook Enterprises, Inc.
Ph: 859-282-7545 x. 105
Fax: 859-282-7566
www.ccookent.com
I have pictures in my computer but I don't know how to post them here

I will give the Mr Cook a call. How do you think it will work with engine movement?

Thanks for the info
Rob

This is an interesting topic. For a few years now I have given thought to developing an effective filter housed within the airhorn but like most "ideas" the demand is simply not there to support the development costs. I took a look at the individual filters by Roush - they are ugly like everything else that people put on these Webers/Injection units.

I ran my 48 IDA's with nothing and had no adverse effects but long term I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that. A Weber stack draws it's flow from the center and therefore makes it a challenge to design a semi-hiddin (non tumor like growth atop the beautiful stacks). It CAN be done and will be by someone with more money and time than most of us. Anyone looking to throw a 150K into development and sell these buggers for $30 a pop get in touch with me. You might have your investment back within 30 years.;)

you can also do these type of screens with your TWM kit.
http://www.twminduction.com/v8_kits/427.html

If there is a lot of interest, I will have these made:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0&ppuser=25528

fastrods with using a flat screen with round holes like that you don't have enough air flow. i used a diamond pattern then made a die so i could press it into a 1/2 round convex shape that worked very well on the flowbench. these were on a 395 ci. smallblock that made a little over 800 hp. i am going to make some for my twm here in the next week ore two if there is any interest let me know. jim