"vacuum gauge" to balance stacks?

[Rwillia4]

After I re-read about it (on page 102 of the manual), I realize it was it dropping below the min RPM (it was right on the edge). Two cut offs that will put you into open loop mode: coolant temp and RPM. There are some other items in there also worth reading.
I agree it is not due to heat at the O2 sensor.

[kobrabytes]

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

After I re-read about it (on page 102 of the manual), I realize it was it dropping below the min RPM (it was right on the edge). Two cut offs that will put you into open loop mode: coolant temp and RPM. There are some other items in there also worth reading.
I agree it is not due to heat at the O2 sensor.

Ye, I don't think you want to be in closed loop at idle. There are too many things that are going on until the engine heats up. I have the idle really solid, although a bit high right now as I keep leaning out the lower left cell to get a better A/F ratio.

What mode do you run in? speed density or Alpha N?

[RICK LAKE]

Cobra #3170 I have a vacuum controlled regulator in my fuel system. My system was setup for a blower setup with a Paxton. you need 1-3 pounds of fuel for every pound of boost you make. IMO it's the supply at a steady pressure more than the pressure of the Fuel. I was only going to 10 psi for the system. I have too many little issues with the setup and belt I was running. Lack of hood clearance at this time didn't help either. I now have a paxton hood and may down the road retry this setup. I have an 70 amp orginial Alt setup with external regulator. It is not enough because of the added things on the car I have run. I have the ECU, 3 cooling fans, 2 (255liters pumps) MSD 6AL, 2 (4") cooling fans under the hood, and trans and readend cooler in the near future. Like Freds car I am going to a 130A alt setup. This is needed to all the power I am now running. Amp gauge needs to be changed to a Volt Gauge. Some rewiring also will be needed. I do know from racing that my Alt can't keep up my battery at full charge (12.6-12.8 volts) and run all the other power components. My alt only puts out about 35-38 amps under 1000 rpms. Just the 3 fans, MSD, ECU and fuel pump Draw more power than this and drain the battery. At 10.2 volts my MSD will not fire the spark plugs. I did get a little side tracked but have found that dropping the fuel pressures only at idle rpms with large injectors, IMO helps at idle to fine tune the motor. I have no smoke of any kind when I hit the throttle and no delay of responce from the motor. The fuel pressure goes from 43-44 psi to 52-54psi under a drop of a vacuum signal to the regulator. IMO a believe in having way too much supply and volume to a fuel system. 2 1/2" seperate fuel supply lines with a fuel pump on each one and 1 return line of 3/8". My gas gets warm after a 20 minute race run, but has not cause any problems yet. I do run between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank of gas going out for each run and come in with just under 1/2. This is straight pumped gas. Hope this help with your question.

[kobrabytes]

Hi Rick,

Does the alternator fit an FE without using different mounts? I searched, but could never find anything that wasn't too deep.

len

[kobrabytes]

TO you guys running Alpha-N on an FE.

How have you got your A/F ratios set up? I'm mostly at a 13.5. I have stage 3 heads. I understand that these motors like to run rich.

len

[RICK LAKE]

kobrabytes Len I have my Alt on the L/S on my engine up at the top just below my outlet and upper radiator hose on my car. The reason was because of room being tight from the blower and my P/S pump is on the lower R/S mounted to the timing cover bottom 2 bolt holes. My timing cover is one that works with a solid motor plate and mounts to the frame rails. The correct ERA way is that it mounts on the R/S of the motor in a higher location. Except for my Alt being a little short in max output (70a) it has worked fine for 11 years. I am going to a bigger 120-130a because of charging issues when racing. Too much draw with the added pumps and fans. Rick L. Ps the Amp gauge and wiring through it must be changed to a Volt gauge. The old gauges where only set to handle 60 amps with spikes in the 90's for a short time.

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by kobrabytes

Hi Rick,

Does the alternator fit an FE without using different mounts? I searched, but could never find anything that wasn't too deep.

len

Hi Len,

I am using a 100A alternator onto my ERA/FE. This did take some modification to get it to work but they were not difficult. To begin with, I am using a set of March 2-V (groove) pulleys which puskes the belt about a 1/2" further from the motor than a 1-V pulley set would. I then used a single groove pulley on my alternator and used a combination of ERA's FE alternator mount kit with a custom set of spacers and water pump bracket (I have a shelby pump which did not fit the original ERA support bracket) to get everything to line up using the outer of the two grooves on the crank and water pump pulleys. I machined the back (unused) groove off the water pump pulley for appearance reasons. LAst step was to go the the local auto parts store, buy 2-3 belts that were close to the right side, and find a belt that would fit the best. The whole setup fits and works great. Here's a picture of the end result:



Here's a picture of the setup with the engine out of the car. I switched from the bracket shown in this picture to the ERA version because the alternator need to be further from the engine to fit ERA's chassis.



I hope this helps.

- Fred

[kobrabytes]

THanks Fred, nice setup!