Welcome to Club Cobra.

You are currently viewing the world's largest resource for Shelby related information as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions, articles and access our other FREE features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload your own photos and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

Go Back   Club Cobra > Club GT40 Areas (MKI - MKII - MKIII - MKIV) > GT40 Talk
User Name
Password
Club Cobra Home Register FAQ For Sale Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Keith Craft Racing
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Main Menu
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
Keith Craft Racing
Keith Craft Racing
MMG Superformance
April 2021
S M T W T F S
        1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17
18 19 20 21 22 23 24
25 26 27 28 29 30  

Kirkham Motorsports

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2021, 05:05 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 2
Default Need advice, and possibly an engine block for 302 Ford

About 2-3 years ago, the engine in my GT40, built around a 1968 Ford 302 Mexico block, was exposed to a hard freeze, and blew its freeze plugs out. They were replaced, and the cooling system and engine pressure-tested to 22lbs without leakage. However, the engine had not been actually run, and today, following a carburetor rebuild, we fired it up and ran it for a while in the garage. After we shut it down, we noticed a small amount of antifreeze weeping out of what looks like a crack near the front of the block. This is on what would be the passenger's side of the block, but in my car is the (RHD) driver's side. It was a small amount, but it IS coolant. The engine ran fine, once we woke it from its rather sound sleep. It did not overheat or anything of that kind.

I'm trying to figure out what to do next with it. Can this be repaired? The crack is most likely from the water jacket at that front cylinder to the outside.

If it's not advisable to try to repair it, what do I replace the block with? The rotating assembly in this engine is very good quality- all SCAT forged pieces-, the heads are AFR 185s, the engine was built by a very good local shop (Burtonsville Performance Machining in PG County, MD) The engine has MAYBE fifty hours on itd- all those pieces are basically new. If I had to replace the block, I would want to just reuse all the present engine pieces excepting the engine block.

This is not on the engine builder. This isn't their fault, btw. It's mine, for not recalling that I was running distilled water in the car and for forgetting to drain the engine and cooling system.

So- suggestions much appreciated, and JimmyMac, if you have the perfect replacement block for this car, GT40P1149, please DO let me know. I know you have a garage the size of the Royal Albert Hall totally full of GT40 parts..... if you have something you can be persuaded to part with, I'd be ecstatic. That goes for anyone else who might have a suitable item.

Happy holidays, all. And, for what it's worth, she sounded great
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2021, 05:42 AM
1795's Avatar
CC Member/Contributor
Visit my Photo Gallery
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua, NY
Cobra Make & Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,080
Default

I cannot answer whether the block that you have can be repaired, I will leave that to others. If you are not able to find another used 302 block, then I would suggest going to the Dart Iron Eagle block. All of your other components will fit. The block comes unfinished and requires honing and some other minor machining. You should be able to hone it to fit your pistons. The block is identical to the 289 and 302, with the exception of improved cooling and it is beefier. Thee are two Dart Iron Eagle blocks available, the more robust Iron Eagle weighs about 195 lbs and is made to withstand 1,000 HP. The SHP Dart Block weighs about 165 lbs and is made to withstand 600 HP.

I just bought an SHP for my 289. It is way stronger than my 1965 six bold block was. My engine builder figures that they way underestimated how much HP it could withstand. Here are a few pictures. By the way, I run distilled water in mine as it is a dedicated race car and therefore I cannot run antifreeze. At the end of each season I drain the water and then install some antifreeze for the winter, as it is very difficult to fully drain the water and I worry that some may be trapped and freeze. In the spring I drain the antifreeze and flush with water.

Jim
Attached Images
   
__________________

Last edited by 1795; 01-07-2021 at 05:46 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2021, 06:19 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
I have in the past contributed to CC
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville, KY
Cobra Make & Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,311
Send a message via AIM to blykins
Default

The SHP will hold close to 1000 hp.
__________________
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2021, 06:32 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Dubuque, IA
Cobra Make & Engine: Shell Valley-408
Posts: 22
Default

I know this is not a for sale thread but I can HELP you with another original bore March,27 1969 block and crank if you decide to go that route.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2021, 08:23 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Louisville, Oh
Cobra Make & Engine: A&C 67 427 cobra SB
Posts: 2,439
Default

First you need to heat cycle the engine several times and make sure that is the only leak.

Second you need to visually see the blocks crack. One to make sure it is cracked, and two to locate the crack.

If it is cracked on an outer jacket, here is how they used to fix them back in the day. Think Model A Ford. You locate the two ends of the crack. Go a 1/4" past the ends and drill a 1/4" hole on both ends. These prevent the crack from continuing to propagate. Now you tap the holes and screw a brass plug into them. Then you drill a hole next to the plug, but allow it to overlap into the previous plug. Tap and install the next plug. The next plug locks the previous plug into place. Repeat until the crack is completely filled with plugs. Adjust hole placement more or less to make the last plug come out in a reasonable spot.

All plugs must be tight enough not to leak, as they are all locked and not moveable when done. Then grind smooth. It makes a relatively strong fix, but a non-broken block would have been better.

I have heard of using this technique with steel, where you cannot get a deep penetration, then welding over the top. There are some very good glues that could be put over the top today.

Certainly not ideal for a race car, but you have nothing to loose but time if you want to try to save the block.

PS
use pipe plugs and pipe thread. This is so the threads taper and seal the water leak.

Last edited by olddog; 01-07-2021 at 08:27 AM.. Reason: PS
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: