Why do I have high fuel pressure...

[steve meltzer]

OK, here's the plan. I'm gonna take one of the big paper clip like deals that will hold 150 pages of BS and clamp that hose (I got it off with my little "Leatherman" like too). My wife can follow me the 6 miles home and, as you said, I can get 'er home and go from there.

WOW, Dan Ec....I had totally forgotten about the post back in '06....thanx so much. I did wrap the fuel rail/log with some foam rubber insulation and I think that helped. Hadn't been an issue since. I don't drive the car too often when it's really hot, as if I get stuck in traffic, the car gets hot (100-105C) and it makes me too nervous to be much fun. Today, it's a gorgeous 60°. thanx again. s







More later. thanx again. s

[jhv48]

Correct me if you've already tried this, but why don't you bypass the mechanical pump altogether and just run off of the electric pump? Two pumps, twice the potential problems.

[steve meltzer]

Well, despite my best intentions, the neither the clip nor a surgical clamp from the office worked to obstruct the hose, so, I'll go back to the office on Sunday with a proper hose clamp, block the errant hose and drive her home for the repair. More later.

JHV48, I've not tried anything in the past. The car is now, as it has always been. I understand your point about twice as much potential trouble, but...if the e-pump fails (and it did about 5 years ago), i could make it home on the mechanical pump. Thoughts? thanx. s

[patrickt]

If that Carter mechanical pump that I gave the link to fails in the next ten years I'll have RodKnock dance naked on the hood of his Kirkham with a rose clenched between his teeth. Yes, I'm that sure it won't fail.

[steve meltzer]

hmmm....might dent the hood! s

[patrickt]

And now that you had the little "flood" out the secondaries, you know we'll have to pull the bowl off to inspect the float, its hinge, and the little springy thing on it and, of course, replace the needle/seat. So, you'll need the two little round gaskets over and under the seat adjusting nut, the bowl gasket, and you might as well unscrew the metering plate and clean it out with carburetor cleaner -- another gasket is in there. And, you'll need the little "clutch" screw fitting to get those six screws out of the metering plate. Ehhh, just order the Holley tool for that -- it'll make your life easier. Why they used clutch head screws there I'll never know.... You'll need the plastic bowl screw gaskets, instead of the paper ones, and, if you're doing this on the secondary side, you might as well do the primary side. So, buy this fast rebuild kit, which is what I like and has everything that you need: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-37-1542/ and if you don't have 1) a "clutch" bit (I think 5/32", but I have the Holley tool), and 2) a "pointer" type inch/lb. torque wrench then pick one up. I take my Holley apart all the time and I've even cracked the bowl from tightening the screws by hand without using my pointer torque wrench. My "click off" inch/lb torque wrench just isn't as sensitive as I need for the low torque numbers on the screws. Those screws require 25-30 inch/lbs. Anything over about 50 inch/lbs will crack your bowl. I now torque everything on that carburetor, as if it were glass. My hand just can't tell the difference between two foot/lbs and four foot/lbs... but you generally hear it "snap" when you crack the bowl and the stream of gas once you fill it with fuel always tips you off. On the plus side, after we fix the pressure issue, and do a "quickie rebuild" of the carb, your car will run better than it ever has before.