Why do I have high fuel pressure...

patrickt · #1 (**permalink**) 03-20-2017, 09:47 AM

Actually a three wire solenoid is a little safer than the four wire solenoid for two reasons:

1) Forty years ago we used to hotwire Ford cars using two paper clips. One paper clip was fastened between the small right terminal and the hot battery side of the solenoid. The second paper clip was brushed against the two front terminals to crank the engine, which would then start.

2) You've probably read posts where guys make the outlandish claim "I started my car, and the starter motor stayed engaged and even when I pulled the key out of the ignition both the starter motor kept running and the engine kept running... wtf was going on???!!!???" This is because the small right connector continues to receive 12v+ when the solenoid is engaged, thus bypassing the ignition switch circuit to the coil. So if the the solenoid sticks in the "engaged" position, it will also politely provide the ignition circuit its needed 12v+, so the car will keep running. The stock ERA wiring diagram actually lets this happen even if you have a MSD box wired in, and have never heard of, nor used, a ballast resistor in your life.

steve meltzer · #2 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 08:07 AM

As is often the case, i made an error...the n/s i installed were in fact 110s and the cheat sheet from Holley was that an "H" should be a 110. I pulled them out, lubed the "o-rings" and installed to about 3 threads.

Starter out and, as the photos show, the pinion gear is a mess. You can see the shards of metal on the starter face. Will check the teeth on the flywheel this evening, if I have time. The guy at the electrical shop said this is a common Toyota Camry starter, with a different gear and different face. Good, strong and reliable starter. Wonder if it needed shims or some such tolerance issue?

More later. s

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

The guy at the electrical shop said this is a common Toyota Camry starter, with a different gear and different face.

Hmmmm, I have never heard of doing that on an FE. Not saying it's bad, mind you, just saying I have never heard of it.

There's no shortage of starter motor choices for an FE. As I mentioned, I use the plain old OEM Ford job that weighs like 200 pounds and costs like fifty bucks.

Now that you've put the needle and seat valves back in with a little grease on them and three threads showing, why don't you just turn on the electric pump and see if you see gas shooting out anywhere? We won't bother setting the floats or anything until you get the starter motor in, but let's just look to see if gas is flying first.

steve meltzer · #4 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 09:29 AM

i can do that, but with the car on jack stands, nose up, will that tell you any more than knowing it didn't spew when i was trying to crank it over the weekend? i doubt you could set the floats very well with the butt down on the jack stands. s

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

i can do that, but with the car on jack stands, nose up, will that tell you any more than knowing it didn't spew when i was trying to crank it over the weekend? i doubt you could set the floats very well with the butt down on the jack stands. s

No, if it's up on the stands just leave it there. Getting the starter motor back on and working is the first priority. I was just thinking that maybe when you originally put the needle and seat valves in with the O-ring dry that they weren't seated properly and that let gas by on one of them, which caused gas to flow out the boosters, and that's what caused the flooding. But, we'll take a look at that after you get a new starter motor in. FWIW, here's a pic of my OEM starter. I have actually driven my car up on to a flatbed before using nothing but this starter motor. And if you stubbed your toe on it, it would break your ankle.

steve meltzer · #6 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 11:58 AM

yeah, that's the boat anchor/brick that mine came with. Single terminal to battery. Right? s

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

yeah, that's the boat anchor/brick that mine came with. Single terminal to battery. Right? s

Yep, that's it - with only one wire and one terminal, even RodKnock could figure out how to wire it up.

Texasdoc · #8 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

Starter out and, as the photos show, the pinion gear is a mess. You can see the shards of metal on the starter face. Will check the teeth on the flywheel this evening, if I have time. The guy at the electrical shop said this is a common Toyota Camry starter, with a different gear and different face. Good, strong and reliable starter. Wonder if it needed shims or some such tolerance issue?

That looks like a PowerMaster starter with their Infi-Clock rotation system.

There are internal shims for the starter face, to pull the gear away from the flywheel. I had to send mine back to PowerMaster and they installed a "special" second shim. The instructions say only to use one internal shim. I have the 9603 model.

Click here if image not shown

steve meltzer · #9 (**permalink**) 03-21-2017, 01:20 PM

Texas doc, thanx for the info. I do indeed have a Powermaster, a 9506. From viewing the photo do you think I need a shim, or two? How do you tell, or should i go to there website.
Your name suggests, like me, you're a Texas physician. Yes. I'm a solo gyn in Houston. thanx steve