Why do I have high fuel pressure...

steve meltzer · #1 (**permalink**) 03-22-2017, 11:34 AM

oooh Patrick, you're a devil and bad luck....tho' I haven't looked at every tooth (I think there are 184, right?) I have at least one bad one (well, absent, completely chipped off). I have one major project goin' in my garage now (engine out reseal and amateur detailing of all parts including the engine bay on an old Ferrari), so my lift is tied up for awhile. Your thoughts (other the Rube Goldberg of catastrophes you've envisioned!). s

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 03-22-2017, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

Your thoughts (other the Rube Goldberg of catastrophes you've envisioned!). s

Just put in the same brand and model of starter you had in there before (it got you by until now) and let's get the car running. I don't want your car to be like the guy that checked in to the hospital with an ingrown toenail and then never made it back out alive....

steve meltzer · #3 (**permalink**) 03-22-2017, 11:46 AM

The PowerMaster starter was rebuilt yesterday, in just an hour or so! $65 included the clutch, gear + labor, so I'm ready to see how it works. I guess if eats another starter gear, I'll have to start thinking about some serious wrenching. thanx and more later. s

steve meltzer · #4 (**permalink**) 03-25-2017, 10:39 AM

OK, got the starter in but trouble starting the car. Cranked fine and you could see fuel coming from the venturis and the squirters. It fired up once or twice but I couldn't keep it running. When it did fire up, you could see fuel and air going straight down from the primary venturis....never really seen that before. Looked like a tornado headed straight down to the butterflies. Now that I've tried several more times, the starter no longer wants to catch the (highly challenged) teeth on the flywheel. Timing is OK, checked and never touched. Rotor and cap look OK to me and to a semi-professional guy who's doing some body work on another car for me. Got spark that i can verify. Bowl levels set with e-pump on. argggh. thanx steve

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 03-25-2017, 10:53 AM

A tornado. Huh.

OK, there has to be something wrong on your primary side. Without removing the carb from the car, if you can, I know you have a Turkey Pan, so do I, and hopefully yours is removable like mine, take the primary bowl off, look at the metering block, blow everything out again, make sure you have the gasket on in the correct direction (I kind of think you can't put them on wrong anymore) and put the old power valve back in. Then double check that, with the car not running, and the site plugs out of the bowls, that the electric fuel pump has the fuel level staying at just below the site hole and the needle and seat valves are shutting off the fuel flow and it's holding there.

steve meltzer · #6 (**permalink**) 03-25-2017, 03:15 PM

OK, i'll work on that tomorrow. thanx for the new idea. I too, believe one of the issues is on the primary side + the known starter issue. s

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 03-25-2017, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

OK, i'll work on that tomorrow. thanx for the new idea. I too, believe one of the issues is on the primary side + the known starter issue. s

Or maybe the gasket around the PV is bad, or missing, or loose - torque it down to a good 50 inch/lbs. The power valve normally is closed when you're idling, or trying to idle (because you have over 6.5" vacuum for that particular valve). This prevents any gas from "shortcutting" around the jet restrictions. Back in the 80's and before, a good back fire could break your PV and the classic test for checking for a blown PV was to turn your idle screws all the way in and see if your engine dies (meaning the PV was good). But Holley fixed that bug around 1990 or so. I know the odds of getting a bad PV in a new rebuild kit is pretty low, but that could be an answer....