Why do I have high fuel pressure...

[steve meltzer]

Gaz64-thanx for explaining the reason the engine should be running for the most accurate float setting.

That this was inevitable was obvious the moment I spotted the rotten dentition! (Not once, in all of my training did they even mention teeth, and rarely, feet!)

Unfortunately, and despite having two lifts, both have been tied up for months and it will be several months until one of them is available. At my age, doing this without a lift is out of the question. An alternative to this would be to do what i can from above (with some stuff done on the jack stands) and tow it to a shop near me. That would be less satisfying, more expensive (and he's pretty cheap), more risk of damage to the car, but faster. Might need a good bottle of zinfandel to make that call.

It's been less than a year since I did this exact exercise...the original hydraulic T/O bearing was leaking and failed, and the car wouldn't stay in 3rd gear. Pulled the tranny and had it rebuilt, and put in a Kirkham mechanical t/o bearing, with his slave to move it. (wonky purple colored unit!). At that time, the flywheel was not resurfaced, the teeth looked good on the ring gear, and the pilot bearing was replaced. Pressure plate looked good and the clutch disc was within spec. Did I do something wrong to bring on all of these plagues? thanx.....Apparently, no redemption in my garage. steve

[patrickt]

Well, that's a personal decision. As you know, the only heavy piece is the transmission. My TKO is almost exactly 100 lbs., and I have a weight-lifting high schooler who can dead-lift that amount almost with one arm tied behind his back. An alternative to that would be to whip up a quick transmission sling with 2 x 4's and a block and tackle. Envision a small "beam bridge" over your transmission, with a block and tackle sling, acting to hold it up, and then allowing it to easily pull out and away. Casters on the bottom of the bridge could allow it to roll easily. The bridge could either be inside the car, or outside the car. Once you had the transmission out of the way, the rest is pretty much all down hill, even for one set of hands... unless you were really heavy handed with the red Loctite last go-around.

[patrickt]

[steve meltzer]

Patrick, thanx again. Def'n cogitating on my next move (but the car won't move 'till I get my tuchas in gear!). I'll post the list. s

[patrickt]

Steve, how much does your carb tilt in one direction or another? Almost none of our carbs sit perfectly horizontal on an FE, but if you step back and look at yours, how much difference is there between the nose and the tail?

[steve meltzer]

i'll have to check that when i get a chance, probably in a few days. thanx again s

[patrickt]

OK, I was helping another Holley 4160 owner recover from a dicey rebuild and lo and behold the Power Valve that came in the rebuild kit was opening and closing in the metering block almost like the diaphragm in a fuel pump. His vacuum, because of a larger cam, was a little lower than one might think, and the new PV opened at a number that was higher than it should, and that's where the two lines on the graph crossed -- making it open and close in rapid succession causing all sorts of goofy problems. Now, we didn't see the Ajax "white tornado" that we grew up with, but almost... with the engine hot and fuel percolating in to the venturis and "smoking" out. But, changing the PV, and setting the floats a little lower, solved all the problems. And the poor hot idle complaints that he had been enduring were fixed by setting the idle via the secondaries (by the secondary stop screw that you can get to with the proper tool, usually at least) and having the primary butterflies way down low below the transfer slot. I don't know if you ever had a problem with your idle being rich after the engine gets good and hot but, if you do, that's how you fix it. It's literally a magic trick for the 4160 and, if nobody ever tells you about it, you'd likely never guess it on your own.