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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2018, 03:27 PM
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Yes. As is the small one on the very front of the carb down by the base plate. The little one that is above the passenger side idle mixture screw is ported.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2018, 06:58 PM
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OK, just as I thought. 2 ports (different size orifices) for full engine vac + the one "ported" above the blades. s
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2018, 06:47 AM
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OK, got the carb set and the fired up. Hope to set the timing using the "power/last timing advance" method this weekend. For now, it's set at 10 BTDC, initial. I don't see a leak from the intake (yet). Fingers X'd. thanx. s
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:52 AM
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Ten degrees BTDC is a nice place to start. We're just trying to get the car to idle nicely, and not leak, then we'll graduate to having it drive nicely. But, since you mentioned timing, of course your total "all in" timing is what's important. I think you have aluminum heads, like mine, and my engine runs best with 35 degrees total advance. So, with my MSD distributor, I have the 25 degree bushing installed along with ten degrees initial timing to give me that total of 35. Ten degrees initial puts less of a load on your starter (which you just might benefit from). I use the light silver and blue spring combination to achieve the following curve. Notice how the advance comes in. This works very well for me and has for many years.

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2018, 08:21 AM
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OK, Got it all set up and running well. My base timing is 21, the total, 36. Got the Holley set up as Patrick suggested, with the idle set by the secondary adjustment. Because of the geometry of the Holley and its underlying Edlebrock intake i had to use a hex-head machine screw, not an Allen head, but it's easy to adjust with a 5/16 wrench. But, and there's always a "but", right? It still leaks from the intake. Gonna get some adult supervision to install next. arrgghh. s
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by steve meltzer View Post
But, and there's always a "but", right? It still leaks from the intake. Gonna get some adult supervision to install next. arrgghh. s
OK, you mean it leaks from where it sits on the "China Wall," or where it mates up to the heads, or where the carb/TP mounts to it up top, or what?
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:04 PM
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There's a current FE intake gasket thread going on over at FEpower, Looking for some advice on intake gasket
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2018, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve meltzer View Post
OK, Got it all set up and running well. My base timing is 21, the total, 36. Got the Holley set up as Patrick suggested, with the idle set by the secondary adjustment. Because of the geometry of the Holley and its underlying Edlebrock intake i had to use a hex-head machine screw, not an Allen head, but it's easy to adjust with a 5/16 wrench. But, and there's always a "but", right? It still leaks from the intake. Gonna get some adult supervision to install next. arrgghh. s
Have you got some pics of your leak?

Oil leak, or vacuum leak?

What bush do you have in your distributor to get 21 and 36?

Gary
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2018, 04:51 PM
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What bush do you have in your distributor to get 21 and 36?
Not MSD. Their black bushing is 18 degrees and that's the smallest one in the kit.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2018, 04:59 PM
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Not MSD. Their black bushing is 18 degrees and that's the smallest one in the kit.
Yes, I know 18 is their smallest.

There is a 10 and 14 available on the net, we made a 12.

Gary

Last edited by Gaz64; 03-18-2018 at 05:30 PM..
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2018, 05:22 PM
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Yes, I know 18 is their smallest.

There ia a 10 and 14 available on the net, we made a 12.

Gary
Trust me, the good doctor ain't milling custom distributor bushings....
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2018, 10:17 AM
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OK, thanx for the info about the intake leak, which was immediately obvious after hard driving at the right rear "China" corner, but using a UV light + dye revealed oil leaking from the front, esp on the driver's side and from the rear not only in right corner, but across the middle. I'm just disgusted as I was very careful in trying to do this job. Does anyone ever use the cork gaskets they always supply for the ends? I never have, but jeez...

Timing: I have an MSD box (6 AL, I believe), a standard Ford FE distributor with the advance locked out and an MSD programmable timing computer (8981) now superseded by a the model 8680. s
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Old 03-19-2018, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve meltzer View Post
OK, thanx for the info about the intake leak, which was immediately obvious after hard driving at the right rear "China" corner, but using a UV light + dye revealed oil leaking from the front, esp on the driver's side and from the rear not only in right corner, but across the middle. I'm just disgusted as I was very careful in trying to do this job. Does anyone ever use the cork gaskets they always supply for the ends? I never have, but jeez...
I wish I had a "magic bullet" for intake installations to keep them from leaking but, alas, I do not. If you just can't, can't, can't get it installed without it leaking, and it didn't leak before you removed it, then I would start to suspect something is warped or cracked or the like.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2018, 10:54 AM
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Well it's time to check in with ol' doc Steve and see if he's making any progress on the Kirkham now that summer time is right around the corner....
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2018, 01:00 PM
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oh yessir...I hadn't forgot you either! putting her back together this weekend. intake is on, expansion tank on the workbench, install tomorrow AM, I hope. s
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:57 PM
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One thing i noticed about setting the idle with the secondary stop screw is that if you open the secondaries too much the motor tends to come off the throttle slowly (running on the secondaries?).

On my motor if i set the transition slot square its way too MUCH throttle...Think mine are pretty much covered at idle if i try to balance both ends...My secondaries are tight as frog lips at idle with the primary just cracked. No vacuum leaks, Walker PCV valve set for low vacuum.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2018, 03:01 PM
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If you were topping a 460 with an Edelbrock Torker II I could help: the manifold was made incorrectly in the area around the distributor at the front.

Incorrectly means that the manifold did not overlap the china wall, so a bead of sealant had nothing to adhere to. The manifold was cast with its flange about 1/8" to the rear of where it should have been. Leak, leak, leak...

The fix was to form a 1/8" wide piece of aluminum and adhere it to the front of the manifold with some diesel sealant. After that cured, installation was successful and no more leaks.

Takeaway: dry check the manifold's fore-aft position and assure the ledge on the manifold actually sits directly above the china wall, and not behind it, so as to contain the sealant bead effectively.

Oh, and Edelbrock says "their manifold is not at fault," of course.

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Old 04-14-2018, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tortuga View Post
One thing i noticed about setting the idle with the secondary stop screw is that if you open the secondaries too much the motor tends to come off the throttle slowly (running on the secondaries?).

On my motor if i set the transition slot square its way too MUCH throttle...Think mine are pretty much covered at idle if i try to balance both ends...My secondaries are tight as frog lips at idle with the primary just cracked. No vacuum leaks, Walker PCV valve set for low vacuum.
One thing with a Holley or other 4160/4150 Holley style carb, QFT AED etc, is to check that the primary to secondary link does not jam in the slot as you open the primaries slowly off idle (engine off). This needs to be checked after final hot idle speed has been set. This is assuming that near equal airflow is occuring around all four throttle blades at idle, especially for 4 corner idle carbs.

Some aftermarket throttle bodies have their transition slots too high up the bore.

Gary
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