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Any tips before i start the build?
What things would you do differently if you could do it over again?
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make a list of everything you are going to do and check things off as you go....
you need to do just about everything as you have to change things that where not not acceptable for street use anyway... and write down part numbers and torque specs..... that type of info comes in handy down the road for reference or even for resale.... plus a list will always grow longer because there are things you may have to go back to finish because you couldent get that little 2 bit part at one parts store so you have to stop at another to get it. my guess is you have done this kind of thing before....just double check EVERYTHING TWICE |
Thanks and i always make a list. Otherwise you can end up doing twenty things all at the same time and that is when big mistakes are made.
Anyway, I was curious if there were anythings particular to the Kirkhams that might need to be addressed before dropping in the engine etc. ie, do you wish you had painted your aluminum black, etc? |
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A Tri-Ax shifter just for giggles. Not 100% sure, but maybe more notch up on the camshaft scale. I have a 245/252 .631/.650 now, but the 482 could probably absorb more. |
Four recommendations pertaining to heat management:
Plan to run fresh air ducts to the cockpit from the front of the car. Since you're in AL, I'd wire in a blower. Cover both sides of the footboxes with reflective material. I used two layers of Second Skin on each side. Protect the master cylinders and lines from the heat of the headers. I used two aluminum panels, plus made a shallow scoop directing air up from under the chassis to the master cylinders. Incorporate an oil thermostat into your engine oil system. BAT's MOCAL is a good one. Have fun. anicholas KMP 517 Pushing on the pull door of reality. |
Whenever I had torqued a nut/bolt/fastener , I marked it with a yellow grease pencil , yellow crayon . Makes it real easy to remember what has and has not been torqued/tightened . Eliminates that did I or didn`t I feeling .
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Got quench? If not, I'd order custom pistons if that's what it's gonna take to get some. It's worth the time and effort to check it out. It's a huge aspect of what the Engine Masters competiton builders look for when building their motor.
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If you track the car in a hot climate, add a differential cooler from the start. If you use a TKO600, go with the .82 OD. Add vents in the front fender wells to help cool the headers. Do not use a coaxial hydraulic clutch.:CRY:
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my kirkham came wired for a hi torque mini starter. To use the standard starter with a selenoid it will have to be rewired alittle. It might have been a good idea to check with DMV during the build. They wanted to see the numbers
on the tranny and block. it was kind of a pain. On the wheel well foam, make sure there are no light buckets or foot vent hose in the way. |
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.82 5th gear is also a good idea. |
-I have some paint that i use to mark the bolts. Its a great idea and thanks for the reminder.
-Quench-still planning the engine build, but i will make sure i have it. -Starter wiring-no worries. I am using a ron francis harness and it is wired for a normal starter. -Footbox cooling-mine has the hole, but does not have a vent. Any suggestions on where to order the components at a reasonable price -I thought a hydraulic clutch eliminated cables. -I will probably attempt to tackle heat management from inside the cockpit. I know it will not be as effective, but i am not sure what will look good on the exterior of the footbox in the engine compartment. Got any pictures? Question-is an oil cooler really necessary on an FE motor with aluminum heads? It does get hot as hell here in the summer time and the humidity is ridiculous. Thanks |
i got an oil cooler for my fe, i had to use cardboard to block it off to get it up to temp. it makes it look right in the front, but it might be overkill if not on the track. imho...
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An oil cooler is a bit controversial. Some folks it's hard enough already getting the oil up to temp without one. Sometimes impossible to reach a decent temp with one!
As has been suggested on this thread, an oil thermostat is one way to address the problem. I don't know if I'm sold on the whole oil cooler thing or not, I don't run one, never needed one. It's certainly another level of complexity for "stuff" to go wrong. Horribly wrong in some cases... Oil temperature does NOT have to reach "boiling point" to evaporate any moisture within the oil from initial cold start conditions. Simply raising the oil temp to a reasonable level will accomplish the same thing IF you maintain that temp for 30 minutes or so. That's why "short drives" are so hard on motors, water never evaporates. In addition the oil temp you SEE is an "average" of what is in the pan. The actual oil as it flows around the upper part of the engine gets considerably hotter as it comes in contact with the combustion chamber areas. Then mixes with the pan oil and gives up this heat you don't see. |
I meant use an external slave cylinder with a fork assembly, not the internal coaxial type. My internal hydraulic bearing was unreliable and a pain to fix.
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Seam seal the heck on the inside of the firewall while there's no gauges, cables etc in the way. If the fender padding isn't fitted put some in. Dimple the front of the drivers rear inner fender for seat clearance. Submarine strap.
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I agree on dimpling LR fender well.
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Don't forget a good cup holder, remote trunk release
and maybe cruise control.:rolleyes::D I went with the slave cylinder cause if that Mcloud goes bad it makes a mess and harder to replace. Been there done that. Hersh:) |
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Don't forget the center console with built-in stereo. Oh and the self-park wipers too.
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