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View Poll Results: Are you interested in doing more of the work yourself?
Yes, I think it is worth a $2000 reduction in price. 0 0%
Yes, I think it is worth a $4000 reduction in price. 1 1.30%
Yes, I think it is worth an $8,000 reduction in price. 9 11.69%
yes, I think it is worth a $10,000 reduction in price. 30 38.96%
Yes, I think it is worth a $20,000 reduction in price--and I am dreaming! 7 9.09%
No, Kirkham will ruin their name with crappy customer finished cars out there. 30 38.96%
Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll

Kirkham Motorsports

 
 
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2005, 10:06 PM
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David,

I think the manual is a great idea. I have probably called and emailed you, Tom, Steve and Mary 50 times with various questions I had during the build process at Kirkham, and since I had my car, and I'm sure that I am not the only one.

The sample manual pages on sanding would have eliminated numerous calls and emails from me - the pages are well written and easy to understand. The Kirkham gang is always very helpful in answering my questions, but if you could eliminate 10-20 calls per customer, you would free up a lot of additional time to pursue leads with new potential customers and allow you more time to deal with more important problems/issues.

I personnally do not think that cost is a significant prohibitive factor in purchasing your cars - afterall, the price is not all that much different from high end fiberglass replicas (ERA, Superformance etc). I think the total build cost ends up being higher because people tend to use 427 FE motors in most of the cars you sell which are pricer than the 351W and 460's many people use in other replicas.

One comment on the manual - when you go with the "ultra brushed" finish, do you use scotchbrite pads at all or do you go with 120 and then 320 and stop at that. On my car, I have not used 80 grit at all. It takes a little longer to get out the file marks with 120, but the 80 grit can leave some deep grooves as well.

I am also going to start using a palm finish sander on some of the straighter areas to get some of the deeper marks out. So far, I have been focusing primarily on the fender flares, doors, hood and trunk.

Mike
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