Jag diff rebuild

[John A. Simpson]

So who is a good choice to rebuild Jaguar Differentials? Is there someone in SLC or Provo, and about how much will it cost?

[John A. Simpson]

Everybody feel free to jump in here.

[Yetiman]

I don't know of anyone in your neck of the woods, but check out 'Terrys Jaguar' (they have a web site).

Prolly worth the trouble sending it to them, as it would be done right (and you can probably do an exchange to save time).

www.terrysjag.com

[Tom Wells]

Hey John,

Try this company:

C.W.I.

It's where mine are all done

Tom

[John A. Simpson]

Thanks for the info guys, I hope the K brothers will chime in here with someone in the Intermountain West. If not I'll go with one of your suggestions, I appreciate the recommendations.

[ToyCollector]

Looks like you are still waiting for an answer. TURK has learned a good bit about this situation.

Check out www.gasholes.com and search for Kirkham Rear End.

[John A. Simpson]

Thanks TC

I was was just reading about your build over at Gasholes, signed up a couple of years ago and didn't go back until I saw a reference to Morris' work. The K brothers PMed me the name of a guy that they have used before in Blackfoot, ID. I've emailed him a few times and as soon as I decide on gear ratio trans combo I'll send my diff over there. I appreciate your post and will check out that thread for more info.

John

[RICK LAKE]

John A Simpson John couple of notes. CWI sell a 30 spline chrome moly stub shaft you may want to look into. They are rated for 600 hp. The stock ones are rated at 450hp. You may want to look at a locker for the rear also. You didnot say what you are going to do with the car? Street, 1/4 mile, autocross, roadracing. A Jag rear is a basic Dana 44 case. Alot of parts internal, are interchangable with Jeep parts. I did my own, with the strongest parts I could find. Get an gridle for the rear caps of the rear. Make sure you have a breather for this, because it gets hot and the oil will blow out the seals or tube if not there. 1/2 shafts same thing with chrome moly. Good luck Rick Lake

[steelcomp]

Sandy Cone, Templeton, CA. 805-239-2663
None better in the business.

[John A. Simpson]

Thanks Guys,

Thomas Kirkham referred me to Walt Osborn, he used to be in SLC.
Here is his web site: http://www.vintagejag.com/

Rick: I'm going to copy your post to show him, Thanks.

If I remember correctly David K uses a Powertrax, I've considered that or a Torsen or similar. Have you looked at What Morris is doing with the 1350 series Transmission yoke and Pinion Yoke?

http://www.gasholes.com/smf/index.php?topic=3232.855

I might Auto cross the car just to try it, but mostly just mess around on street tires. I've done enough drag racing in other cars, this is more of an all round kick ass street car.

[David Kirkham]

John,

We use a Power-Lock differential in most of our cars. Sometimes we use other manufacturers when the Power-Lock is not available for some reason.

Let me know if we can help you!

David

[John A. Simpson]

Thanks Daivd

With the body work pretty well finished its time to begin assembly. I am curious how you achieve your Ultra-satin finish you have on your web site. Saw no info there.

John

[David Kirkham]

John,

The ultra sanding is really only done when someone goes crazy and really wants a nice job. We sand the car with 220 and then take care to really, really, sand out all of the imperfections in the cockpit turns, door jams, and other areas where no one ever really cares about. It is quite time consuming to get all of the turns really nice, but it looks great when it is done.

We then sand the car with BRAND NEW scotch brite and it really makes the car shine.

If you are around, you may want to stop by and see some of our new updates. Be happy to show them to you.

Let me know if we can help,

David

[John A. Simpson]

Thanks David

I'll be ordering parts parts soon and I'll come to pick them up in person so I can see what you're doing.