replacing the intake manifold gasket

[steve meltzer]

I've got a small oil leak at the rear of my Edelbrock intake manifold, on an original '65 sideoiler. Is it best to pull the carb, thermostat housing, etc and then remove the intake, or can I do a good job using a "cherry picker" to lift the entire "kit and kaboodle" off the block? Any other pearls of wisdom? thanx
steve meltzer "never enough time to do it right, always enough time to do it over"

[bcrumpley]

The best advice I can offer is to use the Victor Reinz gaskets from NAPA and NOT the Fel-Pro Print-O Seals.

[Tim Brewer]

You can leave the t/ housing and carb on if you want, but it's only six bolts. You also don't need a cherry picker, just use your hands.

[PatBuckley]

Remember you're going to have to reinstall it....right?

You need to be really precise when placing the intake back on...do you really want all that extra weight to juggle when you do that?

[scootter]

I just replaced mine with the Victor Renz. Much better gasket. I didn't use the end gaskets like most people might.
If it is aluminum it is fairly light with everything off. A good idea to keep things straight while reinstalling is to have 6 studs sticking up out of the vertical bolt holes. That way you are sure the intake goes on straight. PLus it will hold the gaskets in place. As you put the bolts in just remove the studs and replace them with the regular bolts.
Scott

[steve meltzer]

thanx for all your good advice. I know how critical it is to have both mating surfaces "Operating Room clean" and to lay it down perfectly the first time. thanx again. steve

[trularin]

If you have the time, take everything off.

It is lighter, and is a bit easier to position.

Just my $0.02

[wtm442]

Of course, if you are really lazy, you can always smear a gob of clear RTV where it is leaking (pre-clean area) and hope it stops the leak.

[Eljaro]

On my 427 CO there is a bypass going from intake manifold to water pump.
I am also in the process of changing the intake manifold gasket because I found an oil puddle in several intake ports, with the oil coming from between the manifold and the head. Probably the gasket is not sealing well, maybe it is the two cork end seals which prevents the intake from seating fully.
I would like to know whoever also has the bypass (if not plugged!) how you manage to fit the manifold taking care not to move the gaskets, not to disturb the end seals made with RTV and the the same time jiggle the sprout into the short rubber hose for the bypass ?
How many of you have the bypass plugged btw?
Do the gaskets go in dry or with some silicone around the ports or only around the water passages?

[steve meltzer]

I cleaned the living day lights out of it and tried the RTV, but it didn't work. (I tried this twice on my 'Vette's intake manifold leak, and it didn't work there either.) thanx again. s

[Rick Parker]

Not RTV! Use a product called "The Right Stuff" in pressurized can, made by Permatex. You can get it at NAPA. It has much better bonding and sealing qualities.

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

[wtm442]

Elarjo

After the intake has been installed with all of the bolts installed and tightened ... then its time to install the bypass hose. This way you do not disturb the gaskets.

1) Coat the inside of the bypass hose with white lube or other lubricant (both ends).

2) Fold the bypass hose in half. Yes, fold the ends towards each other so it looks like this ^

3) Now position the folded hose over the bypass tube ends as follows
= ^ =

let go and the ends of the hose will install itself. Its easy ... try it, you'll like it

[Burnd]

Originally Posted by Eljaro

On my 427 CO there is a bypass going from intake manifold to water pump.
I would like to know whoever also has the bypass (if not plugged!) how you manage to fit the manifold taking care not to move the gaskets, not to disturb the end seals made with RTV and the the same time jiggle the sprout into the short rubber hose for the bypass ?

Steve:

There is another way to do it that we found to be consistent. We leave the hose attached to the water pump. It's actually VERY helpful. I have a race motor so this thing is constantly being taken apart. It's very easy to do with TWO guys. We leave the top end on the manifold, although if you want to remove it; be my guest. It's not really necessary. We don't use the corks either. They're a pain in the ass and are subject to shift. I don't know anybody using them around here anymore, including Keith Craft. All you need is one clean, consistent bead across the front and the back. We tack the manifold gaskets on the head side and they will not shift when you drop the manifold in place. The bypass functions as a "perfect" CENTERED guide to place the manifold down. We tilt the front end into the bypass hose to it's last point and "set it down". Nothing moves! Stick a bolt in opposite corners of the manifold "in case" your a tad off. Without the corks there, any adjustment is so miniscule it won't break the seal because there's no corks to shift. I have done it 4 times these season and have never had a leak. Everything else may leak on my wheel barrel, but not the manifold. It's not rocket science and is really simple. You only need a helper for 10 seconds for balance and to help you guide into the bypass hose. It's truely not a big deal.

BTW: RTM442's idea sounds interesting. I have never done it that way, but we never needed too. Frankly; we use the hose as a guide for placement and we can see the ridge in the bypass hose where it was last seated. the dam thing is so short and not very flexible it hadn't occured to me approach it that way. Anyway; you have a couple of alternatives. Regardless; I'd dump those stupid corks. They create more issues than they solve.

Bernie

Bernie

[Eljaro]

Well Bernie,
that is exactly how I have done it untill now.
The two bypass tubes are so close to each other that Warrens solution seems impossible, unless I shorten one of the tubes.
And now that we are at it, with what do you tack the gaskets in place?

[Burnd]

Originally Posted by Eljaro

Well Bernie,
that is exactly how I have done it untill now.
The two bypass tubes are so close to each other that Warrens solution seems impossible, unless I shorten one of the tubes.
And now that we are at it, with what do you tack the gaskets in place?

Eljaro:

1. You are correct on the tubes. In fairness to Warren; those tubes will vary in length depending on what manufacturers manifold and water pump is on the car. Mine is a Blue Thunder and we looked this afternoon and it would be impossible to do on my car. My tubes are almost touching "inside" the bypass hose. Warren can get away with on his, so the tubes must be shorter.

2. I should qualify something for you in my response regarding the front and rear dam gaskets. My manifold head surface that mates to the manifold has been trued and shaved. Consequently my manifold sits closer to the block deck and the use of the front and rear gaskets is not necessary, so the front and rear dam is easily achieved by useing Black RTV in lieu of the gaskets. If your front and rear dam gaskets fits, then there is nothing wrong with using them. Having said that; the way to prepare them is test them DRY and ensure that they don't buckle or bend when you set the manifold down on them. Otherwise, if they are too tall the front usually will squirt "out" forward and the rear one usually squishes "in" towards the oil galley. If you elect to use the gasket then "tack" the BOTTOM of the gasket on to the block with Permatex Red Hytack first. Then put a blob of RTV in EACH of the corners and then a bead of Black RTV along the top of the gasket. BTW: Let the Hytack sit for a minute before you mate the gasket and the 2 edges together. We also bevel the gasket edges with a razor to match the angle, if required. You have to eyeball it. The Permatex Red Hytack comes in a can with a brush in it.

3. Manifold to Head Gasket: we use the Permatex RED HyTack on the head side of the gasket. We paint it on with the brush on to the bottom side of the gasket and align it with the ports. Let it set and then we use a little (spread with a finger) RTV Black on the upper side of the manifold gasket. Then you are ready to button it up with old insertion method into the bypass hose from there. If there is any adjustment required when you insert the manifold bolts; the Hytack keeps the gaskets in place on the head and the Black RTV on the top surface can give a little.

This is the way we do it and it's been consistently successful. I am sure everybody has their own tweeked process but this method has worked well for us. I hope it's helpful to you and good luck with whatever method you choose.

Bernie

[era427tp]

On my tunnelport I glued the gaskets to the manifold with Permatex black adhesive sealant,oil resistant,and let it set up for a day. I then put a bead of the same sealant around each port on the head.This worked for me even though I had to move the manifold a bit to get everything lined up.Previously it sucked oil in the number 6 intake port so bad it would foul the plug.Now I drove all summer,used no oil and the plugs stayed clean.

[Eljaro]

I took off the manifold yesterday because of the oil puddle I found in several intake ports, and some oil running toward the valve from the intake manifold gasket.
I cleaned the intake valves with all sorts of self made brushes and tools to get the sticky black deposits off and proceeded today to put everything back together.
I had recently received some new ARP bolts, which happened to be too long.
While measuring the correct lenth to cut them I noticed that all the bolts I had been using on the intake manifold were too long ( between 0.5mm and 2mm).
So no wonder the intake gasket was leaking; it had been torqued correctly but the intake was resting on some of the bolt tips and not on the gasket.
Now I know why I was allways using so much oil (even with the old Performer RPM intake) and why the gaskets came off allmost like new.
I now use some thick hardened washers which came with the Weber Manifold ( but which I did not use) and I hope all is well now.
You never stop learning.

[steve meltzer]

Well, at least you have an accurate diagnosis! Just cleaned the livin' snot out of the area from where the leak was coming and put on the "Right Stuff". Will test it tomorrow, and report back. thanx for you help and input. steve

[steve meltzer]

I used "The Right Stuff" and so far, no leaking. I drove the car about 10 miles and, so far, so good. thanx again. steve