Near Disaster - Page 2

FatBoy · #1 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephen low

Why don't you swap spinner sides and see if it recurs on the other wheel, then you know its the spinner not the safety latch??

Stating the obvious, but the spinners can't be swapped side to side as the left side of the car has right-hand threads and the right side has left-hand threads.

I would be inclined to take up David's offer of some billet spinners. I'm pretty sure that mine wouldn't be able to override the safety button.

Paul

Jamo · #2 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 12:26 PM

Big Boss is spot on...if it's on tight/correct and fits correctly, it shouldn't come loose.

Just compared the two pics, as Buzz did...good eyes mi amigo.

Murph...turn the damn spinner slowly against the pin to duplicate what Buzz is describing you should see contact against the top of the pin. Might take harder force (hammer or centrifugal) to make it happen, but there is definitly a difference in the ears.

Slither · #3 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 12:34 PM

Just safety wire the dang thing and forget about it. At this point, I would always be second guessing the validity of the button holding that wheel back. If you can't trust it 100%, don't use it. If it happened once, it can happen again! The button is a great idea, but apparently it isn't fool proof. Remember, this is a SAFETY concern!!!

Doug I · #4 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 01:45 PM

I'm with Buzz - the flare at the toe of the spinner ear appears to have a large enough radius that it's able to force the safety pin down by wedge action. Doing it by hand may not replicate the result as all the vibration etc from road conditions are missing.

I'd still put it down as 'freaky' that it happens. So many variables have to be 'just so' for it to happen.

Safety wire is a misnomer. It will not prevent a nut/bolt/spinner from working loose - wired properly it will however show evidence that something has moved. Installing safety wire correctly is an art.

Slither · #5 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 02:00 PM

If a wheel becomes loose, it may be able to break the safety wire without a problem. There is a lot of back and forth force on a loose wheel. Unless the safety wire is a large enough gauge, it could break. Is there a chance that the wheel is not correct? I assume that the wheel is a Trigo. If so, they are not all perfect, to say the least. After all, a correctly installed wheel and spinner shouldn't come loose. Just my .02!

Murphy · #6 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 01:56 PM

Yes to Buzz, Jamo & Slither the picture shows the mark where the pin touched the spinner face. I should have blown up that part of the pic and called it out.

David K came to the rescue and is sending some new spinners. My purpose in this post was to point out the fact a "pre flight" inspection is the prudent thing to do. Know Kirkham know fun, No Kirkham no fun.

David Kirkham · #7 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 01:59 PM

Mike,

We should have your new knock offs out to you in a couple of days. I didn't realize we were completely out of them. I'll ship them the minute they come off the machine!

David

TButtrick · #8 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 03:42 PM

I agree the safety latch is a concern but more of concern is that the spinner is coming loose. I know I'm gonna catch holy $h!t for this but here is a pic of my passenger side front Vintage Wheel after about 100 miles. This is with right handed threads on the right side and tightens toward the front. As you can see from the picture, the safety wire indicates that the spinner has tightened more after driving. I have a loop in the safety wire that I monitor before each drive.

jmimac351 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 04:09 PM

Wow Todd, your spinner looks like it sits way out at the end of the hub. My Vintage wheels don't look like that. Are yours unique in some way? Oh, and you have a knick in your rim.

TButtrick · #10 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmimac351

Wow Todd, your spinner looks like it sits way out at the end of the hub. My Vintage wheels don't look like that. Are yours unique in some way? Oh, and you have a knick in your rim.

Yup. Don't have a stiff Martini and then mess with your spinners. Both fronts have the same material of the hub sticking out. The rears have a bit more. Your car is gorgeous. Not many cars I've seen that look good in 17s but yours is sharp. Been thinking of getting some spares like yours.

jmimac351 · #11 (**permalink**) 07-07-2008, 07:58 PM

Thanks Todd. Those are Complete Custom Wheel (CCW) but of course I had to get rid of them when I went to the Vintage KO's. If the cobra was going to see any more track time I would probably get a set of 17" Vintage knock offs. But since I got the Panoz the cobra has been relegated to wax duty and official 4-wheel Harley duty...

FatBoy · #12 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TButtrick

I agree the safety latch is a concern but more of concern is that the spinner is coming loose. I know I'm gonna catch holy $h!t for this but here is a pic of my passenger side front Vintage Wheel after about 100 miles. This is with right handed threads on the right side and tightens toward the front. As you can see from the picture, the safety wire indicates that the spinner has tightened more after driving. I have a loop in the safety wire that I monitor before each drive.

Unless I'm having a complete brain failure, that doesn't sound right. On the passenger (right) side, you should have a left-hand thread that tightens anti-clockwise, surely i.e. they tighten against the normal wheel rotation.

TButtrick · #13 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 09:33 AM

And that's where the controversy lies. These are right handed threads on the passenger side which would tighten with normal wheel rotation. The wire indicates that the spinner has done just that... tightened. The conventional method is opposite from what I have but nobody seems to understand why it should be any particular way other than its just the way its been done over the years. I'm starting to think the spinners where tightened towards the rear so they didn't tighten so much that they couldn't get them off in the pits during racing?

David Kirkham · #14 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 09:50 AM

Murphy,

We are out of wing nuts and immediately scheduled them back into production when I found out about this. We are just getting them finished today. I should have called and told you. My apologies. They will ship today or tomorrow at the latest! Thanks for your patience and being a great customer!

David

Murphy · #15 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 10:20 AM

David, I will say it again. Buying your car was the best high ticket item I have ever purchased. Would do it again for sure.

A-Snake · #16 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TButtrick

And that's where the controversy lies. These are right handed threads on the passenger side which would tighten with normal wheel rotation. The wire indicates that the spinner has done just that... tightened. The conventional method is opposite from what I have but nobody seems to understand why it should be any particular way other than its just the way its been done over the years. I'm starting to think the spinners where tightened towards the rear so they didn't tighten so much that they couldn't get them off in the pits during racing?

TButtrick,
Sorry to jump in here, but before someone gets hurt, I have to totally disagree with your unconventional method. The correct and only way is RIGHT HAND THREAD ON THE LEFT SIDE and LEFT HAND THREAD ON THE RIGHT SIDE.

Now, I'll try to explain why. At least I'll try to keep it simple without getting into the engineering stuff that I wouldn't understand anyway

Here is an example of the concept I found.

Stand a roll of racers tape on edge, place a very large wrench socket inside of the tape roll, and proceed to to roll this assembly along a table top. With gravity the socket remains in the bottom of the tape roll, and as both parts roll along together the smaller part inside will rotate faster because of the
smaller diameter.

The corresponding parts on the car are the wheel hub and the large threaded nut. As the car rolls forward both parts are rotating in the forward direction, but the hub will turn slightly faster than the nut, so relatively speaking, the nut on the left side of the car turns clockwise in relation to the wheel as you drive forward, and the nut on the right side turns anti-clockwise, in relation to the wheel. Read the last sentence twice. The nut is turning the opposite way of the hub because the hup is turning faster. Get it?

To make these parts self tightening the threads must be right handed threads on the left side of the car and left handed threads on the right side of the car.

Did I convey my thoughts OK?

Of course if you are towing the car from the rear end, everything is reversed

I'll go take a nap now

Jamo · #17 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 12:52 PM

A half bottle of taquilla makes things like this much more understandable.

A-Snake · #18 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamo

A half bottle of taquilla makes things like this much more understandable.

Looks like you've already hit your tequila

RodKnock · #19 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A-Snake

Looks like you've already hit your tequila

Evan is the CC Spelling Bee Champion, not Jamo.

TButtrick · #20 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 01:28 PM

OK. That's starting to make sense. Let me get back to you after another shot. So then how do I explain what happened to my safety wire. My spinners seem significantly harder to remove after I've driven the car for a while. BTW, this wasn't intentional. Without instructions, I put the spindle marked "L" on the left side or driver's side not realizing that it meant left threads.