Registration help

[Gas_in_my_veins]

If someine could please settle this once and for all, it would be a great service to me and others like me (and remember, speak s-l-o-w-l-y, my wife says it's the only way things will sink into my head.).

I am in the ealry stages of purchasing a cobra (still flying around and looking at examples), but am getting centered on a Superformance. What I am seeking out is someone who has possibly purchased a SPF, and has then titled it in Minnesota, or more specifically, Wright County. I am looking to have two questions answered.

1) What is the proper process to undertake to get a car titled and registered in this state (please keep it legal, and don't post and cheats you found to use. I seem to always get caught)?

2)If you could do something different in the purchase, registering, shipping or ordering of the car, what would it be? More specifically, I'm not so much interested in what color choice you would rather have had, but what did you regret or find helpful about throughout the experience?

3)Not being highly skilled automotively, and highly picky about things I undertake, I am leaning towards having a motor shipped to the dealer and installed by them. Is there a pro/con and, if you have done this, any recommendations?

Thank you very much in advance for your responses.

[rdorman]

First thing is to modify the "cheese head" hats to have chin straps so they will stay on at speed

Seriously though. Can't help you with the registration. But.....

There is an EXCELLENT shop near the Superformance dealer in Ohio. Performance engineering. Look them up here on this site or call the superformance dealer. They will be able to hook you up.

Get your car done in time, pick it up the day before DVSFIII and come up to Columbus and join 300 other Cobras in the celebration.

If you are not mechanically inclined, start looking for a mechanic in your area that has experience with these types of cars. They are very simple to work on but you don't want to just drop it off anywhere.

Rick

[donjohn]

Get in touch with your local DMV. I called them before I got my kit so I knew what I had to do . Don`t misplace your MSO and you will need to have reicpts for major parts, I didn`t have any problems my classic is titled as a 1999. Where are you at I am located 30 miles north of Hibbing MN. Don

[Gas_in_my_veins]

I live in Rockford. It's about 15 miles west of Plymouth, but 10 miles east of Buffalo.

[dscott]

Gas, I just went through this with the DMV in Minnesota. You will need the MSO from the mfg. along with receipts for price paid. Minnesota will issue a registration card along with your plates. You will then need to take the car to an inspection station (they will tell you where they are). The inspector will check serial #'s to make sure nothing is stolen. After that the state will issue a title. Normally the title will be the year from the MSO. So if you buy this year the title will read 2003. They classify replicas as rebuilt or reconstructed. A few people have received a title with the year representing the replica. I worked on this but they said it was a mistake and the people that have them are lucky. The county doesn't matter since it's a state registration.

I'm located in Sauk Centre which is about 30 miles NW of St Cloud. I do all kinds of replica builds and we also build hp engines. I currently have 6 cobras in the shop and 12 engines. We also have an in-shop dyno. If I can help with anything let me know. You can give me a call if you like 1-888-722-6272
Don

[Gas_in_my_veins]

Well, then this leads me to another question. How is it if a replica is registered as a 2002 or newer, we get around having to have our cars emissions tested or have any emissions controls? I like the idea of building a 450+hp cobra, but still hear the threats thrown around by the greenies that we should start testing emissions again.

[dscott]

Most states have an exemption rule that allows older engines to get around the emission laws. Minnesota had this when we were testing. I always use 1974 and older blocks because of this. If you use a new crate motor then you would have to pass emissions for the year of the engine in certain states.
Don

[Gas_in_my_veins]

DSCOTT-Thank you very much for your reply. I recently had an E-mail from a gent you did an engine for that went in a Daytona Coupe. That engine was nothing short of gorgeous. Due to our close proximity (Rockford), when I finally take the plunge and get started on a Cobra, I will definitely be in contact. That stack system is nothing short of amazing. The polished aluminum is almost overkill, but looking that good, I'd be more tempted to place on my coffee table than in a car. Who makes the stack system though?

Thanks for all of the help.

Rich

[dscott]

Rich, The stack system was purchased through Wayne Pressley @ Very Cool Parts. He imports most of it. I think either new Zealand or So Africa. I'm not exactly sure. The Tec 3 computer is made in the US. Please feel free to drop by the shop anytime. I always have something cool I'm working on. In shop at this time I have the following:

1934 Ford street rod
1965 Falcon Sprint
1969 Mustang coupe
1962 Austin Healey replica
6 Classic Roadsters Cobras
1 Elegant Cobra

2 of the Cobras have original 427's
1 has a 351 stroked to 420ci
2 have 351 clevelands
1 has a 351 windsor
1 has a 350 Vette

Don

[stevewrm]

rich,
i bot a spf new last summer. mine is a 418 stroker. also in town is a spf 522 big block. if you want to stop over and look at mine or go see the bb let me know. i live in edina. 952.938.9217
cell--612.940.4115
very happy w/ my spf
steve hamm

[cheesepocket]

Likewise, if you want to see an ERA with a 351 W with a T-56 6-speed shoehorned in, I am not far away, in Hopkins.

This state DMV clearly does not "get it", with regard to Cobra replicas. Just across the river, in Wisconsin, they do.

My other advice is to expect to spend more than you originally intend, for unexpected changes/improvements, check into insurance ahead of time, and use other peoples' advice that you trust as much as possible, vs. buying components or an engine that might be the least expensive. As for insurance, I have been using Parish, who most recently is working under Great American Insurance, at 800-252-5233. Be prepared to spend $600-1200 per year for your premium. There have been alot of claims for theft and crashes, so the premiums keep on rising....

Good luck. This is still the most fun car project I've had, and the most fun car I have ever driven.

[Gas_in_my_veins]

Well, what about just emissions in Minnesota. Because it is a kit car (reconstructed?) do you have to conform to emissions at all? What would happen , if, say, I purchased a new SAI aluminum block and heads and dropped it in a cobra? It's a new engine, so do they start hassling you?

[dscott]

You don't have to worry about emissions in Minnesota anymore. If they ever bring it back or it's sold to a different state that does require testing then you would have a problem.
Don

[Gas_in_my_veins]

Dscott-

What is the law on this subject? What I mean is, with or without emissions, when I go to get the car inspected, won't the inspections station notice a minor thing like no cats on a 400+hp engine? They're not the quickest bunch, but they wake up every once and awhile. Also, if I use a mid 60's block, does that then get around emissions, or does the state still view the car as itself as new?

Thanks for the replies.

[dscott]

All the inspector is looking for is serial #'s. They don't care what engine the car has. They just want to check and make sure nothing is stolen. Minnesota doesn't require a safety inspection. I normally use blocks from 1974 and older because most states will exempt an engine that old. Since I ship all over the country it makes it easier for people to register their cars and get the emissions exemption. Minnesota will title the car as a new vehicle or the year that's on the MSO.
Don

[cheesepocket]

Don, I didn't think there was any external identification of Ford engines, like GM did with their two-digit codes stamped in the block under the head. How do you identify a Ford block as pre-1974?

[dscott]

Sorry it took so long to reply. I didn't see this thread. The only way to identify the Ford engine is by the date code stamped in the block. DMV will go by the letter and number code for the date. The first letter is the decade, c=1960's, d=1970's, e=1980's, etc. The second number is the year, ie. C9 would be 1969, E4 would be 1984, D3 would be 1973. Ford's usually did not have serial #'s on the block.
Don