Engine/Oil Temp.

[Bxx1]

After a 30 min. ride (ambient air temp. 80F) I compared engine/oil temp with my gauges with a infra red temp. gun.

My water temp. gauge indicated 100C (212F) and the gun focused on the top of the puke tank= 198F (92C) at the water hose to the thermostat=195F
Bottom radiator hose=162F (72C)
Top radiator hose= 165F

Oil temp gauge=75C (170F) temp. at oil filter=175F

The exhaust header registered 250F
All temps taken within 5 min. of engine shutdown.

Any comments... Thanks...

[thudmaster]

Ron, take a couple asprin and call us in the morning. You are fine.

[dcdoug]

Oil seems fine, but water temp seems a bit hot if it was only 80 outside. Do you have a 195 degree thermostat?

Usually after 30 min drive (normal street driving) in warm weather, the water and oil temp should be pretty close to each other. (+/- 5-10 degrees)

If it runs the same temp when its 90+ out and both temps are relatively close together (again in normal driving conditions), then I'd say you are fine. 100 isn't hot, it just seems hot when it's only 80 out under normal driving.

[decooney]

Ron,
How long has the car been sitting since you drove it last, and did you by chance recently add a bunch of anti-freeze into your cooling system?

[Zoom This]

Temps all sound to be in a safe range when comparing gauges to infrared gun. My water temp is just a little lower but this all depends on how much low speed driving and/or idling you did before shutting down. My header temps are the same.

[Bob In Ct]

I find this going back and forth between Farengrade and Centiheit very confusing.

Oil temp also depends on where it is measured (before or after the cooler).

Bob

[Bxx1]

Originally Posted by decooney

Ron,
How long has the car been sitting since you drove it last, and did you by chance recently add a bunch of anti-freeze into your cooling system?

I changed the radiator thermostat from 160F to 180F, and added about 3/4 of gal. of anti-freeze that I lost during the change. The car was sitting for several weeks before the thermostat was changed. And your diagnosis is??

[Bxx1]

Originally Posted by thudmaster

Ron, take a couple asprin and call us in the morning. You are fine.

Thank goodness.... I thought I was prematurely terminal.

Nice hearing from you.... Still driving the Jag?

[decooney]

Ron,
A first question I always ask is "what changed" recently. If something was changed, I would probably check to make sure there is not an air bubble trapped in the system. Jack the front end up, putting the filler/expansion tank (if you have one) at the highest point. See if there are bubbles to get out. It can absolutely cause a strange heating situation you've described before. It happens in FEs often too with low expansion tanks. Also, you see this situation occur when you go from distilled water only (much better cooling property) to anti freeze (actually worse than straight water, just raises the boiling point), and let say by increasing the ratio of AF to water actually see a notable temp difference for one. I've measure up to 10-12 degrees difference before. Also, if you were always running your car with a 160 degree thermostat before, typically running the motor a little on the "cold" side (not always a good idea) by simply installing a 180 thermostat and running too much anti-freeze actually see the car run notably warmer in traffic on a hot day as compared to before. Also, in some cases seen brand new thermostats stick closed periodically for whatever reason. I'm not saying this is your problem, but I have seen this condition and scenario occur in Cobras before with insufficient cooling fans; in traffic situation on hot days. If it continues, and if you can't solve it easily, you can always test the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to see if it opens/closes or not and try draining the system and replace with distilled water. If the straight distilled water works better, I usually add 1-2 bottles of Water Wetter in Sacramento instead of anti-freeze; then adding antifreeze back in again as winter approaches again. Just a few experiments if you can't find anything else going on. Good luck.

[Bxx1]

Originally Posted by decooney

Ron,
A first question I always ask is "what changed" recently. If something was changed, I would probably check to make sure there is not an air bubble trapped in the system. Jack the front end up, putting the filler/expansion tank (if you have one) at the highest point. See if there are bubbles to get out. It can absolutely cause a strange heating situation you've described before. It happens in FEs often too with low expansion tanks. Also, you see this situation occur when you go from distilled water only (much better cooling property) to anti freeze (actually worse than straight water, just raises the boiling point), and let say by increasing the ratio of AF to water actually see a notable temp difference for one. I've measure up to 10-12 degrees difference before. Also, if you were always running your car with a 160 degree thermostat before, typically running the motor a little on the "cold" side (not always a good idea) by simply installing a 180 thermostat and running too much anti-freeze actually see the car run notably warmer in traffic on a hot day as compared to before. Also, in some cases seen brand new thermostats stick closed periodically for whatever reason. I'm not saying this is your problem, but I have seen this condition and scenario occur in Cobras before with insufficient cooling fans; in traffic situation on hot days. If it continues, and if you can't solve it easily, you can always test the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to see if it opens/closes or not and try draining the system and replace with distilled water. If the straight distilled water works better, I usually add 1-2 bottles of Water Wetter in Sacramento instead of anti-freeze; then adding antifreeze back in again as winter approaches again. Just a few experiments if you can't find anything else going on. Good luck.

Duane, Thanks for your feedback and info.... will keep my attention on the temps especially in traffic and monitor the situation. Maybe take two aspirin in the morning...

[wanab5150]

Ron, my temp is usually at 100c or over and hits 115c when it's really hot.
Oil temp is usually around 90c but also has been to 115c when super hot. All is well....If the thermostat was stuck, it would have pinned the water temp gauge, not stop at 100c. My thermostat is a 195deg.

Ed, I know aspirin will work in most cases, however, Ron will need 100mg of Zoloft with 3 shots of Quervo daily to completely eliminate his issues. (and don't call me in the morning)

As far as the temp gun...make a few adjustments. Lay it on a hard surface with the laser pointed toward a garbage can. Take a 5 lb framing hammer and make even blows across the surface...Now, put the pieces in a small plastic bag and discard. Your headache should disappear almost immediately.

I'll give you a call about next week..... tom

[Bxx1]

Originally Posted by wanab5150

Ron, my temp is usually at 100c or over and hits 115c when it's really hot.
Oil temp is usually around 90c but also has been to 115c when super hot. All is well....If the thermostat was stuck, it would have pinned the water temp gauge, not stop at 100c. My thermostat is a 195deg.

Ed, I know aspirin will work in most cases, however, Ron will need 100mg of Zoloft with 3 shots of Quervo daily to completely eliminate his issues. (and don't call me in the morning)

As far as the temp gun...make a few adjustments. Lay it on a hard surface with the laser pointed toward a garbage can. Take a 5 lb framing hammer and make even blows across the surface...Now, put the pieces in a small plastic bag and discard. Your headache should disappear almost immediately.

I'll give you a call about next week..... tom

Jeeez.... The hammer suggestion worked... I feel soooo much better now. Oh oh... the orderlies are coming to my room now for my hourly shot... gotta run...