Easy Removal of Real Aluminum Spinners
 

The first several times I removed my spinners I dinged them. I used a large plastic mallet as I was told not to use a Lead or rubber hammer because of more damage.

All was fine except when you hit the spinner on the edge, you will get some damage OR, if your spinners are on really tight you will have to beat the crap out of the spinners and WILL damage them. ALSO, if the hammer slips off the spinner, expecially in the deep 17 inch wheels, you will possibly ding the polished part of the wheel. The spinners buff out really easy because they are very soft aluminum. I sanded the dings out with #400 then #1500 and they polished out super easy and look new. The wheel I dinged to 3 hours to remove the ding and polish it out.

Solution...... I called "Vintage Wheel" who was found to be the supplier for Superformance. I asked about the various hammers and the answer blew me away. He said go to Home Depot....buy a 2 ft. long 1"x4" piece of oak. place the end of the oak against the spinner (flat) and the middle of the piece of oak against the tire as a brace, and hit it with a STEEL hammer. Due to the fact the oak is 24" long, it sticks out from the body and away from the wheels so you can't accidently hit the wheel or body if you slip. I thought the guy was nuts.

Today I removed my wheels with one of them being extreemly tight. NO PROBLEM AND NO DAMAGE AT ALL. The oak is apparently hard enough to impact the spinner and force it, and it is also soft enough to not damage the soft aluminum.

After taking them off and putting them on, I split the oak, but saved my spinners. Buy an extra!

Unbelievably easy! tom

Good deal, Tom

Did you take them off as part of the brake issue?

Maurice

Who told you not to use a lead hammer? A wheel manufacturer?

Bob

Right?? Vintage sells lead hammers..and recommends them. I've been using one for 2 years and it hasn't left a mark yet..

You can learn something new everyday
 

I have been using a lead hammer for years but tha oak technique is a winner

I hadn't heard about the oak either and have always used a lead hammer but wrapped the spinner ear with an old sock. I have never had a ding or scratch.

Ron :)

the lead hammer is softer than the spinner, it won't mar the spinner. I've missed my spinner before and hit the wheel, no damage. lead is softer than the wheel too. I would rather just carry my hammer than a 2' piece of wood in my car

I have used this method for years. A 2x2x18" long piece of very tightly grained hardwood works very well. I combine it with a 3lb short handle sledge (BFH). It gets the hammer away from the wheel and you are actually able to focus the impact more accurately without the fear of hitting the fender (yikes) or the edge of the wheel. And realistically.....how often do you remove your wheels?

Will a rubber dead blow hammer damage the spinner? I was thinking about trying one, maybe someone can save me the trouble. ED

Don't use the rubber hammer. A lead hammer delivers all the energy to the spinner. Remember, when putting the spinner back on that we don't have to apply 500 Ft-LBs of torque. The spinner holds the wheel on, the pegs take the load during braking and acceleration. I would also recommend anti-seize and safety wire.

Bob

I agree with Bob about the Anti-Seize and safety wire. I use both and have my safety wire twisted into a double strand and leave just enough slack that I can feel it and tell if a spinner is starting to back off as it will take the little bit of slack out. So far I have never had this happen, but I do check mine every few times that I drove the car.

Ron :o

DITTO. As barbaric as this method is for holding the wheels on a car, works great: very light coating of anti seize, lead hammer, drive car brake/accelerate/brake several miles, set again with lead hammer, safety wire. After 50 – 100 miles give them another whack to see if they’re fully set. You can feel and hear when they are set, spinner & hammer will resonate. I would never recommend any kind of wood, plastic, rubber, etc, method here. ;)

Lead hammer with 2 socks over the lead portion.

Just beat on the spinner (in the correct direction :))

Never-Sieze on the threads before installing,

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...innereaze.html

and safety wire after tightening.

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...tructions.html

I used a 4"x4" x 2' piece of oak for years before getting my lead hammer, both work well. I like the 4x4 because it didn't split and was a bigger target for my short-handled sledge.

Use very little neverseeze or it'll sling out on your wheels, a thin coat works very well.

Exactly, the lead residue will just wipe off the spinner and wheel if you hit it.

Stainless Steel Spinners
 

You could always go with the stainless steel spinners. Mine came from cobraracing.com which for some reason has now turned in to www.justcobras.com

Here's a pic:
http://www.justcobras.com/Images/XK2004a_big.jpg

For all you guys using a lead hammer.....I'm glad it works for you. The point is that the wood puts distance between a hammer and the spinner, thats all. You can beat the sh** out of them with a jack hammer if you want. I'm just trying to provide info to those looking for an option.

I didn't know you could pound on the wheels with a lead hammer and not cause any damage. How about the body?

Convincor said....."Right?? Vintage sells lead hammers..and recommends them. I've been using one for 2 years and it hasn't left a mark yet:..............

Convincor.....As a matter of fact, it WAS Vintage Wheels that suggested the oak over the lead hammer for the reason I quoted. Looks like they screwed you out of $30+shipping and handling!

no they didn't. i'll continue to use it. I don't have a problem with it.
The wood method is an option.

yes they did....yes they did.....yes they did ! So there! :)