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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 02-08-2021, 09:45 AM
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Dan,

On mine we added an inline adapter between the water outlet and the radiator that could house a thermostat. Being that it is a race car we used a restrictor plate so that the water would be able to flow (and air be released as well during a fluid change), but at a reduced level to ensure that the engine is running at optimum temps.

I have used the drill small holes in the thermostat method as well to aid in releasing of trapped air bubbles.

Jim
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795 View Post
Dan,

On mine we added an inline adapter between the water outlet and the radiator that could house a thermostat. Being that it is a race car we used a restrictor plate so that the water would be able to flow (and air be released as well during a fluid change), but at a reduced level to ensure that the engine is running at optimum temps.

I have used the drill small holes in the thermostat method as well to aid in releasing of trapped air bubbles.

Jim
Shelby American's air bleed method was manual. Cars through CSX2200 used one of these "upper bleeder" tube assemblies near the radiator inlet with a Smiths® mechanical temperature sensor and a pipe plug. Any Cobra with factory installed 4-2V induction got one of these (early) or one set up for some other sensor. Street car parts through CSX2200 were normally just painted with black enamel. Later race car parts were often cadmium plated. I had the ones I made for restorations cadmium plated.



This is one of the Shelby American production drawings views.




I believe John Bessey makes nice recreations of these also.

CSX2201 and later street cars did not get "upper bleeder" tubes. Getting the air out after a total coolant refill can be a challenge.
ALF and CompClassics like this.
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Last edited by Dan Case; 09-19-2021 at 11:12 AM.. Reason: add detail
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