Distributor Cap

[Tutosnake]

Hello all.

I have a MSD Pro-Billet distributor with a red cap that was painted black by the engine builder for period correct purposes.

Any ideas how to replace it with a true black cap? The current cap has the "male" contact points on it, and the wires carry the "female" ends.

A friend suggested a GM part (Pertronix) and when I went to hook it up, I realized this new cap had "female" contact towers, which will not work with my wires.

I could replace my wires with ones with the "male" points on them, and use this GM part, but this sounds more expensive/complicated.

Thanks for your input

Hector

[kevins2]

Hi Hector,

MSD makes black caps as well. Do a Google search and you will get lots of hits, including for the Pro-Billet distributor. I've ordered my MSD with a black cap and the engine builder indicated no problem. Let me know if you find it is more complicated than that.

Regards,

Kevin

[dcdoug]

What model do you have? Do either of these work?

MSD Extra Duty Distributor Caps 84313 - SummitRacing.com

MSD Extra Duty Distributor Caps 84333 - SummitRacing.com (EDIT: from what FatBoy posted, it looks like this cap will fit fine)

I'd keep your red one for a spare in the car so when the distributor cap button fails you can change the cap and keep going. Lots of threads on this problem.

Now if you don't want that problem and really want to go original, you can go to an old skool FoMoCo distributor.

[patrickt]

Only a moron would paint their distributor cap. But, if you read through this thread, A Better Looking MSD Distributor Cap you'll find references to exactly what you're looking for.

[Tutosnake]

Kevin, Doug and Patrick: thank you for your quick replies.
Patrick, I found your reference thread extremely helpful. After I read all of it, and laughed my a%$ off, I ordered the cap from the local AutoZone (will get here tomorrow).

BTW That was so easy! Did you ever think about asking your peers first? (I'm so sorry, I know we haven't officially met, but could not fight the urge)

I am SOOO thankful for guys like you (resourceful), that can do the trial and error for guys like me (clueless).

May I throw another two at you guys?

1- Has anyone sprayed Rhino Lining (or the equivalent) on the wheel wells of his car (to reduce noise and damage)?

2- Does anyone know what kind of screws can be used for fastening the SAI CSX number plaque to the dashboard/transmission tunnel?

(Now, I am not completely sold on using the plaque in my car, but if i do, I want to be ready)

I have tons of questions, but i will proceed slowly

Hector

[kevins2]

Hi Hector,

I'm still a month out from getting my car in kit form, but I can tell you that I've read all the available threads on undercoating on this forum as well as several others (including Google searches). The more you read on the subject, the more opinions you'll collect so in the end you'll just have to decide what sounds best for you and go with it. Not only are there opinions on different brands, but opinions on truck liner vs. rubberized undercoating. I eventually corresponded privately with a poster who used 3m undercoating and, after 5 years, told me it still looks new, so that's what I'm planning.

As for your question about mounting the plaque, have you considered rivets?

Regards,

Kevin

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by Tutosnake

May I throw another two at you guys?

1- Has anyone sprayed Rhino Lining (or the equivalent) on the wheel wells of his car (to reduce noise and damage)?

2- Does anyone know what kind of screws can be used for fastening the SAI CSX number plaque to the dashboard/transmission tunnel?

(Now, I am not completely sold on using the plaque in my car, but if i do, I want to be ready)

Hector

1 - Your wheel wells should be lined with aluminum, right? They protect the underside of the wheel wells and you shouldn't need Rhino lining. HOWEVER, if you haven't already put the clear adhesive spats on the outside of the wheel wells in the area near the door opening to protect against stones thrown by the front wheels, now is a good time. You can't really do it when the paint is no longer smooth (wish I had known that).

2 - I used two sided trim adhesive to stick my plaque to the dash so I could remove it if I wanted to without putting holes in the dash. I filled the holes with rivets that don't extend deeper than the plaque so it looks attached. If you want to screw it to the dash or tranny tunnel, small sheet metal screws will work fine.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Tutosnake

BTW That was so easy! Did you ever think about asking your peers first? (I'm so sorry, I know we haven't officially met, but could not fight the urge)

No, Hector. Fortunately, I am blessed to already know the answer to every question, on every subject, under the sun. There is never a need for me to ask first. Especially on really simple questions, like this one.

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by patrickt

No, Hector. Fortunately, I am blessed to already know the answer to every question, on every subject, under the sun. There is never a need for me to ask first. Especially on really simple questions, like this one.

OK - Since I already know the meaning of life... can you answer these for me please?

How come packages via car are called "ship-ments" and packages on a ship are called "car-go"?

How come you drive through a "park-way" and can only park in a "drive-way"?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

No, Hector. Fortunately, I am blessed to already know the answer to every question, on every subject, under the sun. There is never a need for me to ask first. Especially on really simple questions, like this one.

I need help with this question.....

Why do hotdogs come in packages of ten but hotdog buns come in packages of eight?

3 pages on distributor caps? I knew Patrick had to be involved somehow. Maybe he found an iPad app for choosing distributor caps.

[dcdoug]

Here are the paint codes, but as I have found out, you need to get a body shop to do an exact match as there are a few different shades for each ppg code.

HST Colors

[dcdoug]

Your seat is adjustable though, right? I always have mine all the way back, but it will move forward.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Your seat is adjustable though, right? I always have mine all the way back, but it will move forward.

Mine isn't. It is bolted directly to the floor, positioned back, with the front slightly shimmed up. The passenger side is done the same way, so as to match the look. Dispensing with the seat tracks gets you about 3/4", as I recall. But for all the tall guys reading this thread, it is imperative that you get measured, because everyone's height is not in the same place, and it is not the same when you are seated (ie, your "butt padding" becomes a factor).

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Mine isn't.

That's because you only have an ERA.

Hector's car should have adjustable driver and passenger seats and I guess he could re-position the seat track so the adjustment will accommodate both him and his wife, depending on the height disparity. I am 6'2" and fit fine with the seat all the way back, although frankly the limit is more the seat hitting the cowl behind the seat than seat track adjustment.

One thing to consider is whether you really want to adjust the seat track and drill another set of holes in your floorboards.... I think I'd just tell my wife the seat won't adjust any more than it does now and find a good seat pad for her...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

That's because you only have an ERA. ...
I am 6'2" and fit fine with the seat all the way back, although frankly the limit is more the seat hitting the cowl behind the seat than seat track adjustment.

If you were as tall, and as good looking, as I, then you, too, would have your seat bolted directly to the floor, and carefully shimmed to seating perfection, even in your CSX car, which, as I recall, currently has no engine, transmission, nor rear.

[ACademic]

Good thing that patrickt chose a car without a roof, as he would never be able to fit his head inside.

Thank you to dcdoug for posting the references for the black caps from Summit.

[Tutosnake]

Hello there,Doug. Is it this one?
ACCEL Distributor Caps 120405 - SummitRacing.com

I was not aware of this color much less its placement on original engines... I have looked at some many pics of original car engines and have always seen black. Hence i just assume original comp and s/c cars used black.

Good piece of info, though. I guess I like black better after all.

No worries on the seat tracks. I will not be drilling any holes or welding anything on the floor of my car

H

[patrickt]

Hector, here's the original thread along with Sal's link to the tan Accel 8220 Cap. Distributor cap question Even though tan may be correct, it looks bad. Remember, all our cars are fake to begin with -- you should only copy something that was "original" if you still think it looks cool today.

[Rick Parker]

Seriously, how about some very thick soled shoes specifically for driving the car. I saw a show last night, the (young woman) was bowling in 6" heels?... My wife drove mine 27 years ago the day it arrived. She said the seat was too far back (non adjustable) and their was no A/C. She hasn't driven it since

[DougD]

Tutosnake

I'd like to add a couple of comments on this thread:

1) Do you realize that an original 427 Cobra's distributor cap was tan in color, not black? I don't like the MSD red either, but I just thought I'd point this out. If you do a search, there's a thread here somewhere discussing this same issue where a poster suggests a source for a tan cap. If I remember correctly, it's an Accel brand replacement cap.

2) If you decide to relocate your seat mounts in the floor, be sure that they are firmly anchored to tabs welded to the frame. Drilling four new holes in the floor is not structurally sound enough to withstand an accident if your floor is aluminum or fiberglass.

DougD