Club Cobra

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   Originality Forum (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/originality-forum/)
-   -   289 vs 427 footbox (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/originality-forum/139934-289-vs-427-footbox.html)

peterpjb 01-13-2018 12:07 PM

289 vs 427 footbox
 
are there any major differences in size between the two generations?

is the 289 box wider than the 427 box?

and ist it possible to change a footbox without disassembling the body from the frame?

thanks in advance :)

1985 CCX 01-13-2018 04:56 PM

289 box is larger and different.
427 box smaller

They are not interchangeable.

peterpjb 01-13-2018 05:35 PM

unfortunately SAI equipped my 289 with a 427 footbox :(....will have to change it somehow

1985 CCX 01-14-2018 04:03 PM

Post some pics

I think I have a pair of boxes out of the car.
Might help with comparison

CompClassics 01-14-2018 08:53 PM

There are major differences between the SAI 427 foot boxes supplied with the 7000 Series Continuation Cobras and an original 289 foot box. The size of the foot box and the drivers seating position are the biggest! There is also a difference between an early 260 Cobra foot box and a later 289 Cobra foot box.
It is NOT an easy swap once the firewall and body are in place! Ask me how I know this..........but I am soooooooooooo happy that I did! You also have room for a dead pedal in the 289 foot box.

peterpjb 01-15-2018 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CompClassics (Post 1436362)
There are major differences between the SAI 427 foot boxes supplied with the 7000 Series Continuation Cobras and an original 289 foot box. The size of the foot box and the drivers seating position are the biggest! There is also a difference between an early 260 Cobra foot box and a later 289 Cobra foot box.
It is NOT an easy swap once the firewall and body are in place! Ask me how I know this..........but I am soooooooooooo happy that I did! You also have room for a dead pedal in the 289 foot box.

thanks guys, I suspected that..., as I measured out there should be more space right of the throttle pedal, the 427 throttle pedal is left of the steering column, the 289 pedal is right of the steering column, the steering column and the other pedals should be in the same place,
in the next weeks I will change engine and trans, maybe its a more easy swap then....


p.s.
is the footbox riveted to the A-Post? and if, from the inside or outside ? (can I open the rivets while the body is connected to the frame?)

CompClassics 01-15-2018 09:29 AM

1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.

6) the floor pans are different.

7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.

8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

As I had previously stated this is not an easy modification, especially when the car is already in a completed state. I replaced mine without removing the body but I had to make special brackets to attach the outside of the foot boxes to the chassis.

peterpjb 01-15-2018 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CompClassics (Post 1436426)

1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.

6) the floor pans are different.

7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.

8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

As I had previously stated this is not an easy modification, especially when the car is already in a completed state. I replaced mine without removing the body but I had to make special brackets to attach the outside of the foot boxes to the chassis.



John, thanks a lot for this List!

I started with the original throttle pedal and the new steering shaft brackets, then I realized that wouldn't fit..... ;)

the Points 1,4,5,6, and 7 seems to me the biggest points while the car is completely assembled, these points mean a lot of disassembly...

in Detail:

1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

big problem if riveted from the outside

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

ok

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

in stock

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

really? maybe I can adapt the footbox?

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.

:mad:

6) the floor pans are different.

:mad:

7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.

:mad:

8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

ok, in combination with the new Girling brakes

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

ok, easy

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

ok, no problem

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

in stock

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

ok

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

already assembled

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

already complete, maybe the passenger footbox can stay...

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

should be ok, much space to the footboxes



and not to forget, I have new carpets everywhere :(
......

A really big effort for installing the original style throttle pedal ;)

CompClassics 01-15-2018 01:32 PM

The pedal box moves toward the engine, you gain more room to the left of the clutch pedal to install the original type dead pedal and high / low beam switch. You should see traces of a previously installed pedal box support tube at the scuttle hoop and the forward outrigger support bracket.

Tom Kirkham 01-15-2018 02:14 PM

In addition to what John has listed, the steering column mount (the bracket welded to the scuttle tube) also needs to be moved.

CompClassics 01-15-2018 06:43 PM

#10 and #11 on my list.

You can try to line everything up with the scuttle hoop bracket left in place, if you have to move the bracket then....

16) fabricate a new dash panel.

Tom Kirkham 01-15-2018 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CompClassics (Post 1436467)
#10 and #11 on my list.

You can try to line everything up with the scuttle hoop bracket left in place, if you have to move the bracket then....

16) fabricate a new dash panel.

And this is the only way to get the steering wheel in the right place. Otherwise a 14 inch steering wheel will have to be used to minimize to keep your hands from hitting the door.

peterpjb 01-15-2018 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Kirkham (Post 1436470)
And this is the only way to get the steering wheel in the right place. Otherwise a 14 inch steering wheel will have to be used to minimize to keep your hands from hitting the door.

a new dash panel is the only way???? 😳
I am afraid to read the points 17-30 ;)

LMH 01-15-2018 08:32 PM

Is it usual practice for SAI 289s to receive 427 footboxes? Why did yours come that way?
Larry

Tom Kirkham 01-15-2018 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMH (Post 1436472)
Is it usual practice for SAI 289s to receive 427 footboxes? Why did yours come that way?
Larry

The biggest advantage of a 427 foot boxes in a 289 is header clearance.

CompClassics 01-15-2018 11:43 PM

All of the early fiberglass and aluminum bodied 7000 Series Continuation Cobras came with the 427 type foot boxes.

peterpjb 01-16-2018 12:33 AM

there are many details identical to the 427 type, footboxes, wheels, suspension (apart from the springs), front fender, badges, dashboard (apart from the holes), gas pedal, etc....

plenty of work to convert these cars into replicas....

peterpjb 01-16-2018 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CompClassics (Post 1436426)
....
1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.
...

my worries are that the boxes are riveted from the outside and cannot be disassembled with body on the frame...

http://i67.tinypic.com/9hi8m0.jpg

http://i68.tinypic.com/24lvos6.jpg

LMH 01-16-2018 06:59 AM

Very cool! Is that your chassis?
Larry

peterpjb 01-16-2018 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMH (Post 1436496)
Very cool! Is that your chassis?
Larry

no, not mine, i searched and found these picts for the visualisation of my problem,
my car is clompelety assembled (unfortunately ;))


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:33 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: