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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2018, 12:07 PM
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Default 289 vs 427 footbox

are there any major differences in size between the two generations?

is the 289 box wider than the 427 box?

and ist it possible to change a footbox without disassembling the body from the frame?

thanks in advance
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Old 01-13-2018, 04:56 PM
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289 box is larger and different.
427 box smaller

They are not interchangeable.
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Old 01-13-2018, 05:35 PM
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unfortunately SAI equipped my 289 with a 427 footbox ....will have to change it somehow
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Old 01-14-2018, 04:03 PM
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Post some pics

I think I have a pair of boxes out of the car.
Might help with comparison
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Old 01-14-2018, 08:53 PM
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There are major differences between the SAI 427 foot boxes supplied with the 7000 Series Continuation Cobras and an original 289 foot box. The size of the foot box and the drivers seating position are the biggest! There is also a difference between an early 260 Cobra foot box and a later 289 Cobra foot box.
It is NOT an easy swap once the firewall and body are in place! Ask me how I know this..........but I am soooooooooooo happy that I did! You also have room for a dead pedal in the 289 foot box.

Last edited by CompClassics; 01-14-2018 at 09:01 PM..
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CompClassics View Post
There are major differences between the SAI 427 foot boxes supplied with the 7000 Series Continuation Cobras and an original 289 foot box. The size of the foot box and the drivers seating position are the biggest! There is also a difference between an early 260 Cobra foot box and a later 289 Cobra foot box.
It is NOT an easy swap once the firewall and body are in place! Ask me how I know this..........but I am soooooooooooo happy that I did! You also have room for a dead pedal in the 289 foot box.
thanks guys, I suspected that..., as I measured out there should be more space right of the throttle pedal, the 427 throttle pedal is left of the steering column, the 289 pedal is right of the steering column, the steering column and the other pedals should be in the same place,
in the next weeks I will change engine and trans, maybe its a more easy swap then....


p.s.
is the footbox riveted to the A-Post? and if, from the inside or outside ? (can I open the rivets while the body is connected to the frame?)

Last edited by peterpjb; 01-15-2018 at 02:24 AM..
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:29 AM
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1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.

6) the floor pans are different.

7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.

8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

As I had previously stated this is not an easy modification, especially when the car is already in a completed state. I replaced mine without removing the body but I had to make special brackets to attach the outside of the foot boxes to the chassis.
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Last edited by CompClassics; 01-15-2018 at 09:39 AM..
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CompClassics View Post

1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.

6) the floor pans are different.

7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.

8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

As I had previously stated this is not an easy modification, especially when the car is already in a completed state. I replaced mine without removing the body but I had to make special brackets to attach the outside of the foot boxes to the chassis.


John, thanks a lot for this List!

I started with the original throttle pedal and the new steering shaft brackets, then I realized that wouldn't fit.....

the Points 1,4,5,6, and 7 seems to me the biggest points while the car is completely assembled, these points mean a lot of disassembly...

in Detail:

1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.

big problem if riveted from the outside

2) There is more room to the right and left of the steering column.

ok

3) throttle pedal is completely different, that's an easy one.

in stock

4) the pedal box assembly needs to be relocated.

really? maybe I can adapt the footbox?

5) the firewall sheet metal is different.



6) the floor pans are different.



7) the transmission tunnel is different, along with the removable panel to the front of it.



8) the hydraulic master cylinder hard lines may need to be replaced or altered.

ok, in combination with the new Girling brakes

9) steering shaft lengths may have to be altered.

ok, easy

10) diagonal braces may need to be altered and brackets added (steering column support.

ok, no problem

11) different steering column supports will have to be sourced.

in stock

12) original details like the dead pedal and high / low beam switch should be added.

ok

13) original details like the wiper motor assembly can be added.

already assembled

14) passengers side foot box bracket / battery box needs to be added, supports the foot box.

already complete, maybe the passenger footbox can stay...

15) depending on how your current exhaust headers are routed, new exhaust headers are needed.

should be ok, much space to the footboxes



and not to forget, I have new carpets everywhere
......

A really big effort for installing the original style throttle pedal

Last edited by peterpjb; 01-16-2018 at 07:50 AM..
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:32 PM
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The pedal box moves toward the engine, you gain more room to the left of the clutch pedal to install the original type dead pedal and high / low beam switch. You should see traces of a previously installed pedal box support tube at the scuttle hoop and the forward outrigger support bracket.
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Old 01-15-2018, 02:14 PM
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In addition to what John has listed, the steering column mount (the bracket welded to the scuttle tube) also needs to be moved.
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Old 01-15-2018, 06:43 PM
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#10 and #11 on my list.

You can try to line everything up with the scuttle hoop bracket left in place, if you have to move the bracket then....

16) fabricate a new dash panel.

Last edited by CompClassics; 01-15-2018 at 06:48 PM..
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CompClassics View Post
#10 and #11 on my list.

You can try to line everything up with the scuttle hoop bracket left in place, if you have to move the bracket then....

16) fabricate a new dash panel.
And this is the only way to get the steering wheel in the right place. Otherwise a 14 inch steering wheel will have to be used to minimize to keep your hands from hitting the door.
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
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And this is the only way to get the steering wheel in the right place. Otherwise a 14 inch steering wheel will have to be used to minimize to keep your hands from hitting the door.
a new dash panel is the only way???? 😳
I am afraid to read the points 17-30
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:32 PM
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Is it usual practice for SAI 289s to receive 427 footboxes? Why did yours come that way?
Larry
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:26 PM
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Is it usual practice for SAI 289s to receive 427 footboxes? Why did yours come that way?
Larry
The biggest advantage of a 427 foot boxes in a 289 is header clearance.
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Old 01-15-2018, 11:43 PM
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All of the early fiberglass and aluminum bodied 7000 Series Continuation Cobras came with the 427 type foot boxes.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:33 AM
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there are many details identical to the 427 type, footboxes, wheels, suspension (apart from the springs), front fender, badges, dashboard (apart from the holes), gas pedal, etc....

plenty of work to convert these cars into replicas....
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Old 01-16-2018, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
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....
1) The foot boxes are riveted to the scuttle hoop.
...
my worries are that the boxes are riveted from the outside and cannot be disassembled with body on the frame...




Last edited by peterpjb; 01-16-2018 at 03:30 AM..
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:59 AM
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Very cool! Is that your chassis?
Larry
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
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Very cool! Is that your chassis?
Larry
no, not mine, i searched and found these picts for the visualisation of my problem,
my car is clompelety assembled (unfortunately )
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