New Build - Page 3

B.M.B.C · #1 (**permalink**) 12-26-2012, 11:21 AM

Any updates. I love these self build scratch build projects.

adricar1 · #2 (**permalink**) 12-26-2012, 02:17 PM

Craiig excellent work. i have studied the build photos and learned such a lot . great job

Adrian.

cobrakiwi · #3 (**permalink**) 09-01-2013, 10:41 AM

Hope to get back on the scratch build over the winter, here is the trans mount for a TKO 600 trans, and test fitting the hand brake handle.

Dominik · #4 (**permalink**) 09-04-2013, 05:40 AM

Very nice!

And you did that in - how many days?
Were the chassis brackets all laser cut?

How did you position the trailing link bracket at the chassis. That gave me the biggest headaches...

cobrakiwi · #5 (**permalink**) 09-05-2013, 11:09 AM

Thanks Dominik
The frame build took a little longer than I had hoped but I had to make all my own patterns etc. All parts were hand cut and folded by me as well. I had to use my friends large brake to fold the fuel tank straps and rear section. My brake is not quite big enough for those parts. The next frames will be water jet or laser cut and now that I have the patterns should cut down on the work a lot. The rear trailing link pickup points were not that bad at all, I used one of my other cars as a reference then mocked up a complete rear suspension and sat it in place, checked every thing twice then melted it on. My post #26 and 43 shows the brackets in place.

Dominik · #6 (**permalink**) 09-06-2013, 12:52 AM

That's a comfortable way to position that bracket...

In 2003 I had all the chassis brackets digitised to have them laser cut.
Most challenging was the steering rack bracket. They always had to bent a few versions until they got that right.

Your best source for more info is Mickmate. We shared a lot of know how since then.
I merely finish up here and complete one more chassis with leftover parts.

I did modify it slightly to accomodate more avaiable parts (i.e. XJ6 diff).

Get pats water cut rather then laser. I found welding lasered parts a bit tricky.

Keep it up!

Magoo · #7 (**permalink**) 09-06-2013, 08:55 PM

Can anyone recommend brakes that might give me additional room for my street beast with a mustang 2 front end?

cobrakiwi · #8 (**permalink**) 10-09-2013, 11:06 AM

Got to work on the rear brakes a little, had to make up a set of brake caliper brackets, used csx 4000 brackets as the basic design.

cobrakiwi · #9 (**permalink**) 10-09-2013, 11:09 AM

Then we had to machine them in the Bridgeport,

cobrakiwi · #10 (**permalink**) 10-09-2013, 11:18 AM

Got the brackets right first time, (all ways good to have a little luck) hopefully we will get started on the body soon! This wraps up most of the frame and suspension.

cobrakiwi · #11 (**permalink**) 04-30-2014, 08:09 AM

It has been a long cold winter, not to much work on the scratch build, I have 3 cars in the shop I need to build fuel tanks for, so I am starting out making the straps that hold the fuel tank in place. I am making the hooks out of Stainless, one less thing to get powder coated.

LMH · #12 (**permalink**) 08-03-2014, 07:36 PM

Awesome, just awesome! Beautiful workmanship!
Larry

cobrakiwi · #13 (**permalink**) 09-20-2014, 06:26 AM

It's funny how sometimes a project takes a couple of steps backwards before it can gain one step forward, But I decided to use a set of our control arms so off with the old and on with the new!

So here we have a picture of a front lower control arm just out of the jig, front upper and lower control arms back from powder coating and mounting the front lower to the frame.
Cheers.

601HP · #14 (**permalink**) 09-20-2014, 01:42 PM

Some people have the talent! I'm envious.

David

rodneym · #15 (**permalink**) 09-20-2014, 04:02 PM

How did I not ever catch this thread? I had no idea.
I wish I could do what you do.
Awesome work.

601HP · #16 (**permalink**) 09-20-2014, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodneym

How did I not ever catch this thread? I had no idea.
I wish I could do what you do.
Awesome work.

His work is spot on. Its so good I'm trailering my car to his shop for some upgrades.

David

cobrakiwi · #17 (**permalink**) 09-22-2014, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 601HP

His work is spot on. Its so good I'm trailering my car to his shop for some upgrades.

David

David
Thanks for the kind words. I am looking forward to working on your HiTech.
HiTech is one of my favorite cars.
See you soon.

cobrakiwi · #18 (**permalink**) 09-23-2014, 05:07 AM

Here we have installed the lower ball joint, then spent some time on the lathe and machined the spacers for the upper control arms.
I then installed the upper control arms with the spacers and rod end seals.

cobrakiwi · #19 (**permalink**) 09-23-2014, 05:10 AM

Front upright then can be installed.

db replicas · #20 (**permalink**) 09-23-2014, 07:02 AM

Great pictures kiwi

I have been doing the same thing here in the UK.
I have found that the steering arm with a bend like you have there causes crazy amounts of bump steer.
To get the bump steer to zero the steering arm ball joint needs to be 40mm ( 1.5"+) further outboard. However, this causes major problems with the original spec brake rotors, and of course the steering arm need to be re shaped.
To get around this I use a different rotor that I have to modify to fit the 6 peg hub. and a different brake calliper.
Take the steering arm from the other side of the car as it requires less "bending" in order for it to put the pivot point in the ideal place.