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-   -   AC 3000 Series 427 build (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/scratch-builders-forum/131432-ac-3000-series-427-build.html)

ScratchBuilder 10-22-2014 04:07 PM

AC 3000 Series 427 build
 
Starting this thread to detail my build of a 3000 series Cobra. After 3 years of waiting for an Acton roller that didnt turn out as expected and the builder un willing to replace or purchase back the frame, im going to rebuild it. The first issue being noticed prior to shipment that the body did not fit frame with the reason told to me were issues with the CR blueprints.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12932

601HP 10-22-2014 06:52 PM

I roamed through your photo album.................and ??

ScratchBuilder 10-22-2014 07:02 PM

Im going to use Acton Ace3001 as a donor chassis. The current album documents issues with that chassis. I will start a new album for the build.
In the next few weeks/months:
1. Cut off front tower and control arm tabs
2. Cut off rear tower and rear lower control arm mounts
3. Source/fabricate pieces to rebuild front and rear towers.
4. Locate source for front control arms
5. Extend main 4 inch frame rails by 3/8 of inch as they are short and that affects rear tower location, lower control arm location, and wheelbase:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12926

Frame rails should be 8 feet and 3/4 inch:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12948

LMH 10-22-2014 07:08 PM

Why cut them off? Are you going to use a different suspension then the chassis is intended for?
Larry

ScratchBuilder 10-22-2014 07:32 PM

The current towers are off from the Cobra Restorers prints and original cars that I have looked at. As is there is a lot of bind and the geometry is off.

LMH 10-22-2014 09:09 PM

Are you saying it differs from the Cobra Restorers Plans?
You know don't you, that the CR plans have (or at least used to) some issues with their measurements. They may have been corrected by now though I don't know for sure.
Larry

ScratchBuilder 10-22-2014 09:26 PM

The chassis is significantly different from the CR plans, a private set of 3000 plans taken off a survivor, Kirkham chassis, hitech chassis, and an original 3000 427 Cobra. Also looks like the suspension was bent to fit, brackets are not aligned, etc. So I will set it to what a factory 3000 frame is as I have access to an original and the current set of CR plans are pretty close on the critical pieces.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12925

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12933

LMH 10-22-2014 09:50 PM

I see. Just didn't want you to start cutting if you were basing the differences solely on the CR plans.
Larry

ScratchBuilder 10-23-2014 10:29 AM

Thanks Larry! I will try to be more clear and detailed as I proceed and I went back and added pictures.

rodneym 10-23-2014 02:19 PM

ScratchBuilder,

What body are you using?
I would think that doing a scratch build 'piecemeal' (and I'm not knocking it-it's a dream of mine) would be extremely difficult. I feel for ya.
It would be one thing to build a CSX or Kirkham 'kit' but to use this frame with that body, sounds like potential for big problems.
I've heard opinions from some of the most respectable Cobra folks who talk about the differences and liberties taken by originals, repairs, continuations, Kirkham, this scratch builder, that scratch builder, the "other" guy up north, etc, etc. When David Kirkham made a Super Snake hood for a CSX glass car, he said his hood and the Shelby hood were different by 1.5" in width and 1" in length!!! Not exactly a drop in replacement.
Did Acton build the frame to CR drawings only, or did you have input in measurments as well?
I'm trying to wrap my head around your situation.

PS - I'll be watching the build :D

ScratchBuilder 10-23-2014 03:04 PM

Rodney it's a Shelby CSX4000 series body and I do expect it will be difficult. Worse case give up and save up for a Kirkham. From what I've seen IF the CR prints were followed I would've ended up with a chassis that fit the body and suspension close enough. I didn't start looking into measurements until I received the car in California and was figuring out why the body didn't fit(the tires almost hit the front of the fenders) and why the suspension didn't look like other Cobras I've seen. I've had a few experts look at it too and they are confused. Consensus was to put it back close to original which is somewhat of a moving target but at least I will know what the car is based on.
Nick's welcome to put his comments in on why this one is different and not to print, he doesn't return my emails.
End of day, I will have my Cobra!
Should be a good thread, who hasn't wanted to take a plasma cutter to a chassis??
I'm still wrapping my own head around the situation . ..

rodneym 10-23-2014 07:51 PM

SB,
Why didn't you go with Nick's 4000 frame?

ScratchBuilder 10-23-2014 08:39 PM

Hi Rodney,

At the time I liked the 3000 frame concept to get as close to the original 60s Cobras. I didn't think Nick had a 4000 series frame other than his personal car CSX4772

SB

db replicas 10-24-2014 12:47 PM

Is the chassis too far out to just swap the bush fittings for rose joints on the A arms?

ScratchBuilder 10-24-2014 01:33 PM

DB,

I think it's too far out. I do have some 4000 series upper control arms coming(thank you to a forum member for the help) that are heim jointed. The lower control arm tabs are V shaped, ie not square to the frame and the bolt is pulling them square as it's tightened so I'm reluctant to use those:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12930


SB

db replicas 10-24-2014 02:02 PM

Hmmmm.....
Just another thought.
If you do use hemi joints then not only will you be able to adjust the fore/aft/in/out position of the outer point, you will also be able to move the joint itself forwards or backwards due to being much narrower than the 1.3/4+ width of the regular fittings.
You could re work the lower rear control arm to position the upright in a more suitable position.
Looking at the picture with the body on it looks like the body would fit better if it were moved forward to line up with the dash mounts and door hinge mounts.
This could just leave the front end suspension in need of "adjusting", as clamping everything to stop it moving during welding will require a substantial fixture.

Anyway. Just some thoughts ;)

I'm not trying to say that you should bodge (English term) it all but might be less drastic than stripping the chassis back to the main rails.

ScratchBuilder 10-25-2014 04:07 PM

DB,

I looked at again last night, but with all the tabs being bent, and i think the tower somewhat twisted relative to the frame, I decided it was time to remove and get this build going.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12946

Looks like tower was twisted relative to frame and note wedged lower control arm tabs too:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12947

It may be pretty hard to bollix this one up anymore than it already is:D
My friend bought me tickets to http://winwithacobra.com/ so clearly I need two.

SB

ScratchBuilder 10-25-2014 08:34 PM

Short term fix for the rear tower:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12949

db replicas 10-26-2014 04:18 AM

WOW! There's no going back now then :)
Watch out for distortion that will have been caused during initial welding as this will compound itself on your secondary welding.

Looking forward to your progress updates ;)
Good luck.

ScratchBuilder 10-27-2014 12:29 AM

Dave,

I put the frame up on my welding table today and I see a little distortion near the tower areas but not enough that I would be concerned. The main ladder looks square.
I need to find a better solution for the body other than storing it on the frame:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=12951

SB


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