Fasterpatricks Custom Cobra - Page 7

joey_hv · #1 (**permalink**) 01-30-2007, 02:12 AM

good design...how much you selling them for?????

elgecko · #2 (**permalink**) 01-30-2007, 05:14 AM

Is Troje's sponsoring your build. I see some commercial advertising in your photo.

I say go with the bar....looks like a real safe design to me.
Dave

joey_hv · #3 (**permalink**) 01-31-2007, 07:16 PM

say hey little fella,
what is the steel you used for the control arms?

(need diameter, quantity and ordering info please sir)

fasterpatrick · #4 (**permalink**) 01-31-2007, 07:36 PM

joey, All the tube for the control arms is 1025 dom (drawn over mandrel ) seamless.with .095 wall thickness. Some might say it's overkill, I like to overbuild every thing. Patrick

map · #5 (**permalink**) 02-01-2007, 07:54 AM

Are the axle OEM length? Shortened? I used the same IRS (Cougar) in my Slabside chassis i built But i have to shorten the axles 3" i was hoping to find a OEM a little shorter know of any? I also found the disc rear has a larger diameter shaft vs. the drum rear. I tried Taurus RS axle it's a little to short.. I'm trying to avoid making axles i like OEM parts i case i brake one 400 mi. away...

fasterpatrick · #6 (**permalink**) 02-01-2007, 11:01 AM

MIDSHAFTS are factory five for lug wheels 2"shorter they have shortend ones also. Patrick

hssss · #7 (**permalink**) 02-01-2007, 01:53 PM

Check the Explorer half shafts they should be narrower and have 31 spline inner stubs. If you are still building look at the Explorer back cover it has better mounts. The MK VIII and Cobra uses an interchangeable aluminum diff. I have several SCoupe shafts and 1 DSS Level2 for 03 Cobra. The 03 Cobra is about 1" shorter than the SC. The Ford store couldn't give me a length for the Explorer but they said the inside tire to inside tire is 48" FWTW.

map · #8 (**permalink**) 02-01-2007, 02:56 PM

I'm committed now i built my chassis over 5 years ago it's a shelf at the moment, but i need to get the cobra project in high gear...
Thanks for the Explorer tip I'll check them...

fasterpatrick · #9 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 06:05 PM

Well, running out of room quickly but I think this will have to do. Put the pedal assembly and foot box frames in the car, tried to make as much room as possible. This engine is so wide, my feet will be within 2"of the exhaust manifold

. Now I still have to come up with a throttle pedal (cable type). Thats where all of you come in, show me your pics, need ideas to steal.

Still searching for radiator and windshield.

As usual more pics in gallery:

Patrick

Aussie Mike · #10 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 06:53 PM

Hi Patrick,

Your build looks great. I'm curious why you didn't build 4 into 4 headers for it? It looks like there's enough room for them.

Is is an engineering requirement for DMV? We have problems with engineering and design rules down here. I built an ultra quiet underbody system for rego (87dB at 4000RPM). It all uses bolt up flanges so I can remove it in about 30 minutes. I've built headers and side pipes that will go on in about the same time for the "track".

Cheers

Michael

fasterpatrick · #11 (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 09:00 PM

Yes, Mike you are not alone on the 4 into 4's, here is my position. The shorty headers have been developed by ford racing, and have been tested(I will clean up the inside of the welds before final assembly) and will allow what would be a better reading for the O2 sensor, over just one of the tubes. also 4 into 4's would only be better performing, if they could be equal length tubes. That is a road I have been down in the past and decided not to travel again. But thanks for the comments. Patrick

fastraxsg · #12 (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 03:08 AM

Patrick,
Looks like you are still going strong, gets better every day, I agree with Joey about you writing a book for HOW TO....Tex Smith would probably buy into it.

The roll bar looks great, too bad it isn't a factory option anywhere. Add a lower horizontal bar and you could put your harnass attachements on it...would enable only lap belts though if you remove it. Will be interesting to see how you solve not cooking your left foot. Polished reflective double wall with heat insulation of some type in between? Or a small cold air duct of some type from the wheel well, would only work when moving though. Keep us posted.
ken

fasterpatrick · #13 (**permalink**) 02-19-2007, 06:34 PM

Well those who weren't afraid of the old sever knew that I put the throttle peadal in the car. So now I'm reposting the pics to keep the build thread up to date and complete.

rat_rod_russell · #14 (**permalink**) 02-23-2007, 05:52 PM

every time i look at your thread I'm awed by your work.

Thanks for sharing

R^3

fasterpatrick · #15 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:36 PM

Well I've been busy mocking up some new found parts in the car. The radiator and fan have been added to the done list of things to do. the rad is an Allstar Performace 16X28 ford style two row. The fan is well, we'll see if anyone can figure it out. Thanks to all who helped with my info search this step turned out be on of the larger head scratchers.

I'm just going to keep plugging away at the list.

Patrick

eschaider · #16 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 08:06 PM

Patrick,

Very nice! Your craftmanship is impressive. Very nice!

Ed

elpontoge · #17 (**permalink**) 03-23-2007, 05:32 AM

Oh man, you're amazing ....

It's being Perfect !

Congratulations !

fasterpatrick · #18 (**permalink**) 04-01-2007, 03:35 PM

Well I've reached a pivotal point with this project. It is time to start the process of mounting the body(or at least the mounting points to the frame). Now this is fairly new ground for me fiberglass is a medium that I have little experience with so this will be lots of fun. So soon it will be time to trim the furry of my raw body and put to sleep all the remarks that the untrimmed body received.

Now for the photo junkies out there I've taken some new shots of the chassis at its current state. things that have been crossed off the list seatbelt mounts, battery tray, and finished the firewall bracing.

Now for the first of many questions what is the best way to trim the crappy edge on my body. I'm thinking rotozip but what bit? I don't have a clue. Also what is the best way to adhere metal to fiberglass(door, hood, trunk frames) like I said now I'm a complete rookie. Patrick

joey_hv · #19 (**permalink**) 04-04-2007, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fasterpatrick

Well I've reached a pivotal point with this project. It is time to start the process of mounting the body(or at least the mounting points to the frame). Now this is fairly new ground for me fiberglass is a medium that I have little experience with so this will be lots of fun. So soon it will be time to trim the furry of my raw body and put to sleep all the remarks that the untrimmed body received.

Now for the photo junkies out there I've taken some new shots of the chassis at its current state. things that have been crossed off the list seatbelt mounts, battery tray, and finished the firewall bracing.

Now for the first of many questions what is the best way to trim the crappy edge on my body. I'm thinking rotozip but what bit? I don't have a clue. Also what is the best way to adhere metal to fiberglass(door, hood, trunk frames) like I said now I'm a complete rookie. Patrick

well well well...sure the boy can weld but...can he laminate glass??/ ho ho ho...stay tuned..

stangden · #20 (**permalink**) 04-02-2007, 07:12 PM

Patrick, as usual your doing a fantastic job im so far behind that its not funny
I didnt get to work on mine all winter and have parts ordered that ive been waiting on since nov.. getting a little frustated with that company needless to say. anyway maybe I can get busy again. good to see you making so much progess though. keep posting those pics your ideas are very helpful
later
stangden