Fasterpatricks Custom Cobra

fasterpatrick · #1 (**permalink**) 05-16-2006, 08:52 PM

Well, most of the stuff to get the build started is here. Now let the lunacy transpire.

This frame promises not to be original style but more of a hybred of sorts. Read way to many chassis books and head still spinning for details now. Chassis jig photos will have to do, more pics in gallery

Jay Little · #2 (**permalink**) 05-17-2006, 11:40 AM

Very Nice!

I'm wondering what spindles you are using up front? I have looked through some of your older post, but didn't see anything mentioned.

Jay Little

alfy65 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-17-2006, 03:47 PM

And the fun begins...tank after tank of argon...and a lot of reading and figuring.....Keep us posted with your progress..
Al

KarlCSX2498 · #4 (**permalink**) 05-17-2006, 04:26 PM

keep posting photos & have fun, Karl

fasterpatrick · #5 (**permalink**) 05-17-2006, 08:13 PM

Front end parts are mustang II repo units with 11" rotors and manual rack, All from speedway motors. Got the whole works spindels, rotors, brakes, ball joints, steering rack, tierod ends, and assorted hardware for just over $700. Not a bad deal. It's pretty much what they use for modified stock circle track cars. Pat

fasterpatrick · #6 (**permalink**) 05-30-2006, 08:38 PM

I have a question, which would be better solid aluminum steering rack bushings or should I use delerin(Poly). I will be machining the myself and stock for both. Just a survey question. Pat

fasterpatrick · #7 (**permalink**) 06-05-2006, 09:29 PM

Hey everyone,
Look what happened, while everyones out driving around I'm in the shop working. Just a few photos of what I've been up to

Pat.

RedBarchetta · #8 (**permalink**) 06-05-2006, 11:21 PM

You have skills.

-Dean

swedencobra · #9 (**permalink**) 12-23-2009, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fasterpatrick

Hey everyone,
Look what happened, while everyones out driving around I'm in the shop working. Just a few photos of what I've been up to

Pat.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IM000709.JPG
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IM000708.JPG
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IM000707.JPG

New question, what make is your rear end parts from???

fasterpatrick · #10 (**permalink**) 01-03-2010, 09:33 PM

Well let's see, way to cold thank god for the heated shop. I've started back to work getting her ready for paint. The car is back on the chassis dolly, body is off the ceiling, and I have roughed in the fender wells on the front end of the car. These are times that I really do envy you guys that get to work with a kit. Having some of this metal work laid out for you must make this a little easier than trying to figure out, just how am I going to get this covered and how can I bend it this way. But I can get this stuff cleaned up and coated with the same stuff that the rest of the sheet metal is covered with.

Need to source the bulb-seal that I will need to go between the metal, frame, and body. With some luck I should be able to get the rest of the holes laid out that I need to cut into the body and start prepping it for undercoating. I can not believe how different this body is left to right. It's like they molded off of two different cars, guess that is what is meant by character.
Patrick

*13* · #11 (**permalink**) 01-03-2010, 09:48 PM

Kit's are pretty easy, in comparison, but bragging rights are something to cherish! Nice work! Keep the pics comin'!

fasterpatrick · #12 (**permalink**) 03-06-2010, 07:47 PM

Okay guys, here it goes I have the rest of the missing sheet metal formed and coated. Now I cutout some of the holes in the body and found that it had been made very thin I believe this was because of all the extra glass work that would have needed to be done to bond the tub interior that the body kit came with. So I went back to the glass and resin store and picked up another 5gal and mat. So when the temps get back up so I can work with the shop open, I will make the body a bit thicker. For now I will continue to take care of small stuff. This unfortunate setback will delay the paint work which I was hoping to have done late spring.

More bad I came down with Shingles (Chicken Pox Revenge) three weeks ago, I would not wish this on anyone ( Okay maybe one or two people), so working out in the shop has been hit and miss.

I have made some small steps in the right direction. I have made myself a set of louvers for my car, before you all get testy about how they look they will be painted body color like "The Real Ones"

So everyone I'm not dead and I'm still plugging away until later,

Patrick

Iggy · #13 (**permalink**) 06-09-2006, 07:09 AM

Awesome, Patrick, now I really want to get moving. I love your table, and wish I saw it sooner. I am almost done with mine. It is made of 7 nine foot 6 inch I-beams. It is too much table for my single bay garage.

I will try to finish it this weekend and make my first cut on the 4 inch tubes.

Thanks for the inspiration.
Iggy

Iggy · #14 (**permalink**) 06-09-2006, 09:23 AM

Patrick, this may only add weight, but do you think that it would help to drill out a hole in the front pumkin cross piece where the bolts go and weld in a section of pipe. The pipe would be flush top and bottom, also it would be welded top and bottom. So the cross piece would hold it steady, but never see compression. The bolts would just fit in the pipe. Just thinking that now you could tighten the pumpkin untill the bolts break without any stress on the parts.

I do see that the cross piece is so thick that this might be overkill.

Iggy

fasterpatrick · #15 (**permalink**) 06-09-2006, 08:47 PM

Iggy,
I have done that many times in the past but with lighter stock. this crosmember is 3/16ths thick so yes it would be overkill. Was thinking about making the bottom hole large enough to tuck the bolt up inside the crossmember. That would make for a much cleaner look. Pat

fasterpatrick · #16 (**permalink**) 06-25-2006, 10:51 PM

Hey guys,
Well I'm back, took the family to see dead presidents carved in stone. Black hills camping vacation, long drive but worth it, good time. Been getting more parts together and lots of cad time.

PLease tell me what you think of this for rear suspension layout nothing is set in stone yet. Will work in shock mounts when the shocks arive so I can get them drawn in the computer.

Pat

hssss · #17 (**permalink**) 06-26-2006, 10:10 PM

Patrick
Since you are still in the design stage you might look at the rear cover from an 8.8 Explorer, I like the mounting much better. I can get them for anyone interested for about $35 to $40. I believe with a load your arms would bend at the curve. I'm going to adapt the Locost Roarty plans for the 8.8 IRS. I know it is a Lotus 7 type but the general Idea would be the same. http://locost7.info/files/suspension...RSAssembly.pdf

jetlag · #18 (**permalink**) 06-27-2006, 10:57 PM

Hey Pat,just a quick observation on your great work. I usually wait untill last to permanently mount the rack, this saves lots of time when sorting out any bump-steer.

Iggy · #19 (**permalink**) 06-28-2006, 06:08 AM

Pat it looks good. To Hesss'es point, you could diagonal the lower back arm (vs curve). The upper arm on many (Jag, FFR) is a single arm. The FFR uses an angled lower rear arm. The Heim joint hits at the same angle. Also the Lower rear mount is set 3 degrees lower than the front. I am told that both of these add anti-squat. I think that the angle binds the joints under power and tends to add anti-squat and toe-in (a desirable thing). I do not remember how the original was setup (I don't think it had the 3 degree down angle), but will look tonight. I also have a book somewhere that gives some guidance I’ll check this out. I also have seen where people use spherical bearings vs bushings as they may move more than the arms flexing.

Iggy

hssss · #20 (**permalink**) 06-28-2006, 01:44 PM

FWIW I have been researching how to setup the IRS. I plan on using Rorty as general directions. I plan on using Stock Car Products links which are DOM and threaded for 3/4 rod ends. I like and will probably use Rock Krawler rod ends which have a 14 mm trunion bolt but they have a 10mm sleeve for them.

$30.00 Per Assembly for 3/4 Shank
+/- 20 degrees
60,000 Pound Radial Load Capacity
8,800 Pound Axial Load Capacity
Rebuild Kits $5.00 (New Poly Races)
Fits Clevis widths of 2.375"
14 mm Bore

I also believe I have found a cheap way to put spherical bearings in the spindle. Currie makes a johnnie joint which is a sleeve that looks like it would be a direct fit into the spindle.

2" Johnny Joint w/ Greaseable bolt
2 x 1.5 shell
2 trunion

CE-9112 Our Price: $37.95

Description: For fabricators and suspension system builders. Currie's Johnny Joints offer 30 degrees of unrestricted movement in any direction as compared to 22 degrees on a common heim joint. The bushings in the Johnny Joint rod ends are made with a high-density, "tough 88" urethane that encases the inner ball. It is a very durable material, and is impervious to weather. The special ball is heat-treated steel for extra strength, and is cross-drilled for thru-bolt lubrication. The outer shell is .180" DOM tubing, and the retaining washers are heat-treated steel. This 2" joint also includes a 7/16" greasable thru-bolt.
Unit of Measure: Each

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx