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06-18-2008, 09:39 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2
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Not Ranked
Control Arm Fabrication
Thank you for taking the time to read my post. While I am not building a Cobra, I am in the process of restomoding a 66 Mustang Fastback. I am blessed to have access to a TIG and MIG welder (thanks, father in law) and would like to fabricate my own upper and lower control arms. The application of the car will be primarily street/show; the control arms are to be used in conjunction with a MII front setup, disk brakes from a newer Mustang (possibly donor GT or Cobra located), and a stroked 351W.
In short, can someone post links and/or guide me through steel selection, ball joint selection, bushings, dimension of said control arms, etc etc?
Awesome forums...a wealth of information that I can use on my fastback. Thanks for your time.
In search of the next cold one,
NearBeer
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06-18-2008, 11:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,028
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Not Ranked
There are so many aftermarket sources for Mustang II front suspension, why re-invent the wheel (and possibly kill someone if you screw up)?
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06-18-2008, 06:55 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Meriden,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 SC s/n 718, 428 FE
Posts: 1,731
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Not Ranked
Actually these parts are so cheap that you'd waste your time making these, as well as spending more for the materials. Choose something safer and more cost-saving to fabricate.
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06-18-2008, 08:20 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
If you need to ask what materials and hardware to use that gives me a clue you shouldn't tackle a project like this. I'd follow the previous advice. Another serious consideration is the geometry you're trying to acheive. Having said that even some of the best outfits like Heidts, Speedway, Stock Car Products etc use seamed (ERW) tube for their tubular arms. I would make my own from a 1020 DOM (seamless) tube (not pipe). Good luck.
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06-18-2008, 08:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Alpena,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch building frame,FFR Mkll body ,302w, and T5 trans, 3.0 rear.
Posts: 416
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Not Ranked
I bought the uppers I am using on my Cobra build but made my lower as mickmate said, the 1020 DOM and mine have 0.090 wall thickness, 1.250 dia.
Just my 0.02 worth.
__________________
1963 Mercury Monterey 460+ .060 .//Cobra clone, Scratch build frame /302/ T-5 WC / 3.00-9in/FFR mkll body (Broken but repairable) /91 Lincoln Wire Wheels   //  : N.S.M.C Charter/Life Member// Die Hard Blue Oval Nut   
The finish is better than the beginning. Ecc7:8
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06-18-2008, 11:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Sunnyvale,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Early Contemporary 427SC w/ '66 427s.o. (car built in '79) by Snow White Rods (Fresno, CA); XKE Series II front/rear suspension (AMP lower A-arms/half shafts), CWI rebuilt IRS, 4-spd Toploader, PS Engineering knock-off rims.
Posts: 102
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Not Ranked
I agree with everyone's comments above - there are so many aftermarket sources that have a proven replacement product for the OEM parts. Also, some may have some type of guarantee if you have a problem during assembly. Even the shops that do restorations or restomoding follow this route, since they know the replacement part will work right.
Also, it is much safer...GC
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06-19-2008, 06:11 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2
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Not Ranked
Mickmate & 63Mercury
Thanks for the gouge...hopefully I can repay your knowledge in the future!
NearBeer
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