CSX4753 help with brakes

[t walgamuth]

softer pads will likely do the trick....finding some is a problem though.

[CSXBill]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

softer pads will likely do the trick....finding some is a problem though.

Cool, I’ll try it.

[twobjshelbys]

Brake pads don't wear out because they've sat on the car. It's likely the pads that are there were never properly bedded... A good hot run would probably make a world of difference. Change the brake (and clutch, and coolant and rear end and ...) fluids and then bed the brakes you have. You've got nothing to lose and will probably save your self some money and time. I had to run mine because they squeaked and made grinding noises like gravel.

[CSXBill]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Brake pads don't wear out because they've sat on the car. It's likely the pads that are there were never properly bedded... A good hot run would probably make a world of difference. Change the brake (and clutch, and coolant and rear end and ...) fluids and then bed the brakes you have. You've got nothing to lose and will probably save your self some money and time. I had to run mine because they squeaked and made grinding noises like gravel.

The rear end makes a noise and clunk around corners, so I planned to change the fluid. I guess it makes sense to do everything; cooling system, brakes, clutch, rear end. Is that everything?

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by CSXBill

The rear end makes a noise and clunk around corners, so I planned to change the fluid. I guess it makes sense to do everything; cooling system, brakes, clutch, rear end. Is that everything?

Engine oil and filter of course.

[CSXBill]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Engine oil and filter of course.

Good catch. I knew I missed an important part.

[BigGuy]

I have a CSX 47xx that I’ve owned for 20 years. I just rebuilt engine, carbs sent to Jim Ingese in FL, Brakes, recoated sidepipes, new tires, etc.



The brakes are Baer in my CSX4700 (are red with White Shelby lettering on the outside). If you need calipers mustang “R” front and corvette rear. ( ‘95 mustang “R” and ‘84 Corvette four piston).

The three reservoirs are Girling’s (two large are brakes and one small is clutch) need to be completely flushed if your car sat for awhile, as mine sat for a few years because of my issues. I had to replace with new Girling reservoirs (Finish. line) they are so thin that after many years they just don’t seal ( gasket disintegrated).

If your pads need to have a good brake-in, give it a hard drive and get them hot, someone told me once to ride them to get really good and hot.

[t walgamuth]

The silicone fluid works pretty well but will eat natural rubber seals. With good synthetic seals it is benign. It softens the natural rubber and though it will seal a minor seep it can eat away the seals in no time.

[ERA 626]

The 3 black canisters: the small one is the clutch the other 2 are front and rear brakes.

[CompClassics]

I’ll send you a private message tomorrow and post photos. It is a very easy modification that gives you 2x the brake pedal pressure that the stock brake master cylinder has. I mounted one on a CSX6000 Series Continuation Cobra directly under the alternator on the main frame rail, you wouldn’t even know it was there when looking in the engine compartment.

[CSXBill]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

I’ll send you a private message tomorrow and post photos. It is a very easy modification that gives you 2x the brake pedal pressure that the stock brake master cylinder has. I mounted one on a CSX6000 Series Continuation Cobra directly under the alternator on the main frame rail, you wouldn’t even know it was there when looking in the engine compartment.

Thanks

[ERA 626]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

I’ll send you a private message tomorrow and post photos. It is a very easy modification that gives you 2x the brake pedal pressure that the stock brake master cylinder has. I mounted one on a CSX6000 Series Continuation Cobra directly under the alternator on the main frame rail, you wouldn’t even know it was there when looking in the engine compartment.

please send me this info!!

[MKS427]

Don't forget trans fluid.
I'd check with Baer, to see which fluid and pads they recommend. With the dual master w/balance bar, you'll want to verify that the masters are getting full stroke when bleeding and the push rods are aligned, not bound. Baer should have some videos or PDFs to walk you through it.

[Anthony]

I think it’s a pad issue. I’m guessing you can stand on your brakes, and they basically do nothing.

[CSXBill]

Originally Posted by Anthony

I think it’s a pad issue. I’m guessing you can stand on your brakes, and they basically do nothing.

Yeap.

[Bill Kesner]

Hello CSXBill,

Read most of the replies to you. I've got an early 4000 series with Wilwood brakes. Do you remember how your brakes felt the last time it was running? Car's do funny things when they sit for a while! I would first jack the front end up, and see if your wheels move freely. Just want to ensure your pads aren't sticking? Should be able to freely spin both wheels. Do the same for the rear. Next check your reservoirs. The small one towards the nose should be your clutch. The one nearest your firewall should be your front brakes, and center for rears. Let me know where your fluid levels are? Don't need to bleed your clutch just yet, since we're working on your braking issue. If your levels are good, take the car around the block where you wont have to brake on a hill or such, and warm the brakes up. Could be it just sat too long. I just got my car running again after 7 years, and all is good except for a leaking front master cylinder in the foot box, but I still have brakes! Will be replacing it soon!

- Bill -

[SFSDFGT]

I have the same issue with my CSX4145. Girling brakes. Rock hard pedal, very little braking considering the pedal effort expended (a LOT). Had my shop try all sorts of combinations of master cylinder configurations, and we did also put in softer pads, and nothing seemed to make any difference. Finally gave up and decided to live with it, because it WILL brake acceptably well; it just requires a truly immense amount of pedal pressure, which at this point I have gotten used to. And I don’t drive the car all that much. We figured the only thing left to try is to send the calipers in for a rebuild and see if that helps. Might try that someday.

[CompClassics]

For anybody interested doubling your brake pressure at the wheels without a lot of unneeded modifications please contact me using my email at jkb5 AT sbcglobal DOT net

The installation requires the fabrication of two brake pipes and a mounting bracket for the miniature power brake servo which requires a engine vacuum source.