351C oil pressure

[Goodwood]

Fellas,

My Cleveland developed a knock (deep) after the first day at the track. It has a Canton RR pan, and according to the receipts, all the necessary stuff to go racing. I wasn't pushing it too hard keeping rpm at 5k or less. It was a hot day, and the pressure was at 45 lbs vs the usual 80. What is weird is now the pressure is back to 80 (it's cool again) but the gauge "flutters" at 80. I'm getting ready to tear into it...any suggestions?

Thanks,

GW

[Rick Parker]

One of the first things to check is the oil pickup tube. Often the tube will crack near a weld or on the "foot" were the screen is.
I onced experienced the very thing you speak of, it was a hairline crack in the weld itself where the foot was welded on the tube. I never suspected this. As the engine consumed a minor amount of oil due to bad valve guides the crack was uncovered intemitantly
causing the oil pressure to fluctuate @ 40-50 lbs (15 lb swing) above 3500 rpm. Try incorporating an additional brace on the pickup tube anchored either in the windage tray or a main cap
bolt.

This was a problem in the early 289 race cars too.

Good luck .........Rick
Part of this was due to oil drain down

[Christian]

Oil Pressure Should be measured cold and Hot.
Basically when you step on the gas and the pressure goes
up then you know your clearances are O.K.
www.enginefactory.com

[Steve R]

GW,
If you get to the point of wanting to tear down the eng, drop the oil pan first. look in the bottom of the pan for metal. remove the oil filter and carefully cut it open to expose the paper element to look for metal. Look between the connecting rods for bearing material hanging out between them. with your wrench on the damper bolt, move the crankshaft in various positions and wiggle the crank back and forth. if a rod bearing is shot, usually you can see relative movemant between the rod and the crankpin. Start there and keep us informed. sorry to hear of your troubles. The Cleaveland is one of my all time favorite engines.
Steve