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Everett-Morrison sway bar problem
I built an EM cobra in 2000 and had a great time with super support from Bob and Brett. the car has been excellent but I've noticed that both front swaybar end links have fractured off at the threads leaving the swaybar unattached. Julie at EM can't come up with the parts so I was hoping someone could help me in finding a way I could find endlinks and bushings that would fit. I'm sure this has happened to others as it seems to be a design flaw.
thanks, glenn |
which suspension do you have???
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suspension
Independent rear suspension, mark VIII, There are coil over shocks and if I can figure how to post an image I will.
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front suspensionhttp://http://www.gessford.com/cobra...ges/glenn8.jpg
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gwbickert,
Mine broke too. They're for the Mustang front suspension. If you find something strong that fits, let me know! I managed to repair them but am sure they'll break again... Tom |
tom, thanks for the reply. I'll work on it and let you know what I come up with.
thanks |
image of front end link
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Glenn,
No picture? Tom |
are they mustang II front sway bars and links? i have a complete NOS set up i would sell
with D4ZZ 1" bar |
FWB,
I don't think the stock Mustang II links would work. Here's the Summit photo for a stock replacement link: http://static.summitracing.com/globa...k5252_cp_w.jpg The E-M piece is threaded on one end, same as the photo. The other end is a tube welded at right angle to the link, about 1-1/2" to 2" long, and having a bushing inside for a bolt to go through. Generally, the E-M link is T-shaped where the stock link is I-shaped. The threaded end attaches to the sway bar, and the tube attaches to the lower A-arm with a long bolt. If yours are T-shaped, please let us know! Glenn, the original poster, has priority if these links would fit his car. Regards, Tom |
they look like this, this is a pic of aftermarket but the design is the same
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/im...moog/K8229.jpg |
moog makes them.....part # K8229, mine are all ford pieces.
Tom i don't think summit has their ishkabibble's in order, that pic you have isn't mustang II...... |
here's a shot of it installed, its on a kellison but same concept....
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...04_x_1000_.jpg this greasy mess is NOT my car.....just sayin' http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/%3Ci....jpg%22%20/%3E |
1 Attachment(s)
FWB,
Thanks greatly for posting the pictures! Summit definitely has the wrong one illustrated. (Also, I haven't heard the word ishkabibble since I was a kid LOL) The links on my E-M do look like those. From the end of the threaded part to the top of the T it measures approx 6" - 6-1/4" I attach a photo. How tall overall are the ones you have? Tom |
tom, thanks for the image, I haven't figured out how to post the ones I have.
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Glenn,
This software isn't too transparent. I run several other web sites and none are as difficult about that as this one - of course they run different software and have orders of magnitude fewer members :LOL: Take a look at the "Additional Options" section below the one where you compose your message. Click on "Manage Attachments" and it should allow you to upload a photo if the file size isn't too large. (Note: it's even below where the "Submit Reply" button is located. Took me a while to figure out, too...) Are your links different from the ones FWB posted? Tom |
If you can post the photos virtually anywhere on the Internet, you can copy the web address of the photo and post it here as a link and we'll see it.
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Quote:
from the center of the eyelet to the end of the thread is 2.687 " that extra length could be the failure problem. the pic you posted shows the awkward geometry. is it shearing off where the threads start? can the bar mounting be lowered to use a shorter link? |
Quote:
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Quote:
The photo shows the one that failed, and my "fix." The vertical part is a tube which had a threaded stud welded to it that went up to hold the end of the sway bar. It did break off at the base of the threads, right where the stud was welded onto the tube. I repaired it by cutting off the stud flush with the end of the tube, then drilling and tapping a hole to use a bolt. You can just make out the head of the bolt above the sway bar's end. The other side (not shown) still has the stud and nut which I'm expecting to break off eventually. Not real disappointed - 27K miles including a lot of track time is adequate service. Just a pain to add to my maintenance chores. BTW Glenn, would that repair work on your links? I just ordered some Volvo end links that looked near the dimensions needed. I'll post the result probably late next week along with part numbers if they work. Tom |
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