Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy
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Replied, thank you, Tommy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphy
A proportioning valve will not work. It only limits the rears without moving the needed force to the fronts. A balance bar with side by side master cylinders is the way to go with a smaller bore. Bigger diameter rotors, more cylinder area in the calipers, less in the master a longer pedal and balance bar all add to the good.
Ralphy
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Thanks for that, too, Ralphy. I don't think a major change to the braking system is in the works at this time. I need to try to make do with a single dual-reservoir master cylinder if at all possible.
Please keep your eyes out for new posts on this thread....I will get the wheels off the Cobra and take some photos....perhaps that will help.
Thanks again....great analagy with the spike heels!
Quote:
Originally Posted by priobe
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This is a interesting topic
Dugly,
In order to get your brakes right there is a lot of information that is needed. As you can see some have made correct suggestions but it is the holistic view of the brake system that will make your car stop.
Is this a tandem MC that you are using?
What size pistons in the front calipers?
What size pistons in the rear calipers?
What are your line pressures front / Rear?
Are your pedals floor mounted?
What is your pedal ratio?
Are you using a balance bar?
Do you have a proportioning valve?
How much force are you looking to apply to lock up your brakes?
How much force are you looking to apply to stop the car normally
What pads are you using?
These are just some specs that are needed to get you started?
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By tandem, if you mean one with two reservoirs, yes, that is the present setup.
As for piston sizes, I will need to do some research. I know the brakes are Wilwoods, but other than that I haven't really done much deeper investigation.
The pedal is hung from the firewall under the dash, not floor mounted.
There is no balance bar, no proportioning valve yet. The rod-shop proprietor mentioned that when I get the new master cylinder on I would need one in the line to the rear brakes to keep them from locking up before the front brakes, and the MC's to which I posted links both have ports on both sides. Would there be any advantage to using both ports from the front reservoir and the rear reservoir over using one port and pluggine the other off?
As for front/rear line pressures, I have no idea...what sort of gauge would be necessary to measure these spec's?
Force...it takes some pretty stout pressure on the brake pedal to get the brakes to lock up right now, but when I do the fronts lock up first, IIRC. I really haven't had to test them in real-life yet.
The type of pads are unknown to me....I bought the car as it is and have put 5,000 miles on it and the brake pads look to be in great shape, not excessively worn or unevenly worn. It has never not stopped, but there were a few times I was glad to have the shoulder to use to avoid the car in front should it have been necessary. I drive a lot in the rush hour traffic in Houston, so I need good brakes and my hope is to improve on those on the car right now....I don't plan on racing the car, it is 100% street use only.
As I mentioned in my reply to Ralphy, I will get the car up on jackstands and get the wheels off, take some photos so perhaps the answers to some of these questions can be ascertained, and post again, hopefully later today.
Thanks to all who have pitched in! Stay tuned, I'll have more information soon!
Cheers!
Dugly
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