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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 07:15 PM
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Pic #1
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 07:16 PM
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Pic #2
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 07:47 PM
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Could you pull the rotor (that is the light grey thing that is in the center of the distributor) off and take another picture?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 07:54 PM
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Wilco, in a couple mins. Battery just died, of all the luck. Hoping to get a quick charge and then repost.

BTW, What's the best way to clean fouled plugs?

Jason
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 07:57 PM
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OK. Gotta quick charge.

Tried starting again ... no luck.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:02 PM
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I see a brass eyelet sitting to the left inside the distributor - what is that and why is it loose? Check to see if it obviously goes somewhere....
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:03 PM
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A picture of the inside of the rotor will be good too! (I don't know how you are going to shine some light in there so I can see, but....)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:11 PM
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Pic: The brass eyelet is the "other side" of another eyelet. The wires it's connected to run to the MSD box.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:15 PM
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tried 4 pics of inside the rotor. this is the best. to look at it, there's nothing inside there.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:18 PM
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Does that eyelet have a wire connected to it? I imagine it does, and if so, it looks like it should be fastened to something like the other eyelet.
I use an MSD distributor - so I can't go out and check mine to compare it to yours......it looks like an Accel distributor (?).

Maybe someone else uses this set up and can go and check where or if that other eyelet is fastened down?

How long have you had your car running? What I am trying to get at is this.....is it all brand new and only has a few miles on it? Or have you been running it successfully for years.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:28 PM
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The eyelet does not have a wire connected to it. I looks more like a place to screw down, similar to the other side. No wire connected to that side. Wire come out of the rubber piece in the middle.

The car is about 2 years old. It had 250 miles when I bought it in early October 2001 and now has almost 1000 miles on it. I had some problems previously, but a visit to the engine builder last week seemed to fix the problems (about 350 miles of the 1000 were from a long road trip last weekend after getting back - it ran great during that time). Now the new problems started to occur since last Sunday.h

At this point, I'm hoping to just get it started so I can drive it to the local carb mechanic in the AM. It'll crank, but no ignition.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:37 PM
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What problems did you have last week? Anything related maybe?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:42 PM
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I'm sure related, but different symptoms. It was running very rich to the point of gasoline on the manifold, adjust/replace the carb's power valve, adjusted the valves, replaced battery, and replaced the header gaskets. Was really running great when I got it back.... not sure what happened.

Best bet would be to take it down again, but that's a week or two off and would require renting a trailer again. Was hoping this was a minor item that a mechanic could quick fix (e.g. power valve) and be able to drive it there tomorrow (only about 5 mins from my house.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:45 PM
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Patriga;
Looks likeyou have a stock Ford Dist., which is what Southern Automotive uses in most of their engines. The brass ring you see is just a hold down for the pigtail that comes thru the side of the dist., as you can see in the picture it is screwed down on one side as is the way most of them are. Looking at the plugs will not be of much help because of the way it has been running they are all going to be gas fouled. Being gas fouled could also be the reason it won't start. From the look of the carb it looks like it has been running rich. Once plugs are gas fouled they should be replaced. Most mechanics don't like to work on carbs after other people have messed with them. Not knowing anymore than you do I would wait until you take it to someone that knows what to do to it.

Poorboy
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:48 PM
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One more picture!!!

Inside the distributor cap -with plenty of light.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:52 PM
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Based on that, I would definitely say carbon. I just pulled the #5 plug and looks the same as the #4 plug. Also, was getting some kind of liquid silver "metalic" residue off the plug's threads. Consistency of thick oil or grease.

Just found this site which shows spark plug diagnosis. Pretty good.

http://www.tsrsoftware.com/read-plugs.htm


Would it help get it started for me to pull all the plugs and clean them? Can I use a brake/carb cleaner on it?

Jason
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:55 PM
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Inside the cap.

>> trying a different pic
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 09:01 PM
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A little blurry to see anything.....you look at it - see anything out of place?

Sorry I couldn't help you, Patrija.

The plugs should be OK after they dry out, and run a piece of sandpaper between the electrodes (blow it out well after).

When you put it back together (make sure you seat the rotor when you put it back!) make sure all the plug wires are on tight and in the right places!

Good luck - let us know what was wrong.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2001, 09:07 PM
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I do appreciate your help!

I'm going to try to pull all the plugs and clean them tonight with sand paper to see if it helps start in the AM. Keep your finger's crossed!
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2001, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by patrija
Also, was getting some kind of liquid silver "metalic" residue off the plug's threads. Consistency of thick oil or grease.
this is probably anti sieze. some mechanics use it on plugs to help insure they do not get stuck in the heads.


Andy
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