Trailer Troubles

HI GUYS,

I HAVE A TWENTY FOOT HAULMARK ENCLOSED TRAILER WHICH I WAS PULLING WITH A 1997 FORD EXPEDITION.

THIS PAST SATURDAY I WAS MOVING THE REMAINS OF MY LIBRARY FROM A TEMPORARY STOREAGE RENTAL TO A MORE PERMANENT LOCATION AT A FRIENDS BUILDING. THE TOTAL WEIGHT IN THE TRAILER WAS PROBABLY SOMEWHAT MORE THAN THE WEIGHT OF A COBRA BUT I THOUGHT THAT I HAD IT REASONABLY WELL BALANCED WITH THE BULK OF THE WEIGHT DISTRIBUTED OVER AND ABOUT THE AXLES AND SLIGHTLY FORWARD.

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

ON THE WAY BACK, WITH THE TRAILER JUST ABOUT EMPTY, I TRIED TO BE A BIT MORE AWARE OF THE FEEL OF THE TRAILER. UP TO ABOUT 65 MPH IT SEEMED STABLE. BETWEEN 65 AND 75 MPH IT WOULD BEGIN TO SWAY SOMEWHAT WITH ANY SIGNIFICANT GUST OF WIND OR MOVEMENT OF THE STEERING WHEEL. AT 80 MPH IT WAS EVEN LESS STABLE. AT ONE TIME AT ABOUT 85 MPH IT REALLY TRIED TO GET AWAY FROM ME. I HAD TO PRESS HARD ON THE ACCELERATOR TO GET IT STABLE AND THEN "GRADUALLY" LET THE SPEED BLEED DOWN. I FELT THAT ANY ATTEMPT TO USE THE BRAKES OR EVEN "RELEASE" THE ACCELERATOR WOULD HAVE EXACERBATED THE INSTABILITY.

I HAD INFLATED THE TIRES ON THE TRAILER TO 50 PSI (THE MAX SHOWN ON THE TIRE) BECAUSE THEY LOOKED VERY LOW AT 36 PSI WITH THE LOAD IN THE BOX. I DID NOT REDUCE THE TIRE PRESSURE WHEN I DROVE BACK WITH AN EMPTY BOX. THE TIRE PRESSURE IN THE EXPEDITION WAS AT 36 PSI.

THE TRAILER IS ALMOST NEW. I DON'T HAVE MORE THAN 150 MILES ON IT.

I DON'T HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE PULLING A TRAILER. THIS IS MY FIRST TIME OTHER THAN PULLING IT HOME FROM THE DEALERS.

THE LAST THING THAT I WANT TO DO IS "LAY THAT SUCKER OVER" WITH A COBRA OR THE GT-40 IN IT.

THE STRANGE PART IS THAT FROM INSIDE THE EXPEDITION YOU CAN'T "SEE" ANY SWAYING MOTION AND UNLESS YOUR THINKING ABOUT IT IT DOESN'T "FEEL" THAT UNSTABLE.

CAN ANYONE ADVISE ME ON WHAT TO DO TO MAKE IT MORE STABLE?? IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I SHOULD DO TO THE TRAILER OR TO THE EXPEDITION???

I'VE HEARD THE TERM "STABILIZER BARS" BUT WHEN I ASKED THE DEALER HE SAID THAT I DIDN'T NEED THEM ON MY TRAILER AND THAT THEY ARE MORE BOTHER THAN THEY ARE WORTH.

ANY HELP AND ADVISE WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

JUST TRYING TO "KEEP THE DIRTY SIDE DOWN".

THANKS,

BLACKJACK

[mr bruce]

Goodness Jack, we don't need to lose you with all that "work" ahead of you.( plus us boys at ClubCranky got an almost full bottle of Raki floating around) What you need is an equalizer hitch. What it does is basically ties the frame of the trailor and your tow vehicle together by way of some spring bars. Some settups even have a shock absorber on them too. If you dealer doesn't believe you need one ,have him follow you under the same condition you described.Believe me ,it's like night and day, the difference ,with and without.

[John McMahon]

Equalizing hitch is a must. They are usually a class 4.

I was behind a friend of mine going up to Watkins Glen. He's got his open trailer with a Mustang racer and a regular hitch pulled by an Explorer.

It starting swaying and it got worse....and worse.....until he almost jackknifed right in front of me. The truck and trailer were literally at 45 degree angles bouncing! I was scared for him, I thought he was a goner.

Do your self a favor and spend the money on the hitch.

I tow a 20 ft enclosed trailer with an Expedition with the equalizing hitch and it tows beautifully, never any problem.

Now be careful towing Gary Emery's old GT40.

Y'ALL HAVE A GREAT DAY!

PS - Good to have you back!

[cobrajeff]

BLACKJACK -

You got two choices, buddy, either the equalizer, or, you gotta SLOW DOWN!

The equalizing hitch will make all the difference in the world. It's a big, heavy, bulky affair, and, if I'm only towing across town, I usually don't hook up the bars. But, if I'm going out of town, or towing on freeways, they are a must.

Since I have a rather small tow vehicle for pulling an enclosed trailer (Mountaineer), I have also added an "Anti-Sway" bar to my hitch system. It helps keep the 18 wheelers from blowing me sideways with wind gusts.

regards,

cobrajeff

[Spraygun]

With what you are pulling the trailer with definitly a equilizing hitch. You also have to pay close attention that you have enough tongue weight,the automatic airbags on the expedition will raise to compensate and fool you.Lack of tongue weight will make a trailer go nuts.

[Denis Bouchard]

Blackjack,

Let us know how the trailer handles >85mph when the stabalizer bars are on!

With the prizes you're hauling, I'd be inclined to stick closer to the speed limit - particularly if pulling one of these is a new experience.

Even at 60 mph, you should have the gear others have recommended; otherwise.....

[Chad Johnson]

Blackjack,

Take a look at this page http://www.haymanreese.com.au/hayman...stributing.htm

We call these things Reese bars. They spread the weight by taking some of it off the hitch.

Good luck!

[Cobranut]

Jack,

80MPH??? Please do us a favor and take it easy while towing, since we just got you back we'd like to keep you around.

I have quite a few miles towing, and it only takes a second for something to go wrong in front of you, and you cannot stop or maneuver nearly as quick with a load behind you. I've had 10 wheels sliding on one occasion when traffic stopped suddenly and an 18 wheeler slid across my lane to avoid the cars in front of him, and it really raises the hair on your neck! I rarely exceed 70MPH while towing, and at a minimum double your following distance.

As far as a hitch, definitely get an equalizing hitch, and at least one sway control, I run two. Also pay attention to tongue weight, too little is worse than too much.

Be careful,

HEY GUYS,

THANKS VERY MUCH TO ALL OF YOU.

IT NEVER CEASES TO AMAZE ME. WHAT A WONDERFUL WELLSPRING OF INFORMATION THIS CLUB PROVIDES.

I TRUELY BELIEVE THAT I COULD WALK BLINDLY INTO A LIONS CAGE, "POST" THE INCIDENT, AND BEFORE THE LION COULD SPRING, SOMEBODY FROM CLUB COBRA WOULD APPEAR WITH A PITH HELMET, A WHIP, AND A CHAIR - AND TELL ME HOW TO USE THEM.

I'M TAKING THE TRAILER INTO THE DEALERS THIS WEEK OR NEXT. HE'S GOING TO CHARGE ME $450.00 FOR A "REESE" EQUALIZER HITCH AND THE DUAL CAM SWAY CONTROL. HE SAID HE WOULD INSTALL IT AND ADJUST IT FREE.

I'LL LET YOU ALL KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GREAT ADVICE.

Y'ALL HAVE A GREAT DAY,

BLACKJACK

[MIKE KENNEY]

Blackjack,

If the hitch doesn't work I have a nice FL70 Freightliner I can make you a heck of a deal on. 38000 pounds of cars and gear and it's like glass at 90mph. We are moving up to a FL112 so call if interested.

Mike

PS Hitch should work we use them on all of our small trucks.

[cobralee]

Blackjack-

I've unfortunately experienced jacknifing my trailer with my car on it. One thing you didn't say was if your enclosed trailer was intended for an automobile or just a utility trailer.

My first experience was an open utility trailer. I thought I could haul an auto on it. Right away, at around 60mph with nothing on it, it started swaying, but I ignored it. When I had a car on it, it would do the same thing. I would have to slow down and brake. One morning in traffice, on a busy freeway, it started swaying and I skidded across the freeway. Luckily, everyone saw what was happening and backed off. I ended up denting three fenders against the trailer sides. I then found out from a trailer place that these utility trailers are not intended for cars. A car does not balance appropriately and you end up with too much tail weight and not enough tongue weight. As everyone has said, the stabilizer bars should work, but getting a trailer built for a car is the ultimate answer. I did it and have never had a problem.

Ron

[aumoore]

I use my dad's home built open car hauler and it never sways. It does not have any springs and is built on mobile home axles. empty it rides like a buckboard but smooth as glass with a car or tractor on it.

The guy that built it made it for hauling cars not as a utillity trailer. Your swaying sounds like not enough toungue weight.

[cobralee]

Aumoore-

I agree with you 100%. Use a trailer that was built to haul autos, not furniture, refrigerators, stoves, etc.

But on the same topic, what you pull your trailer with is as critical. I mistakenly got a '97 Chevy Tahoe. The dealer said it could tow, they knew I towed a race car and their books says it could tow up to 7800 lbs, GVW. My first experience towing my Cobra to Hot August Nights was a nightmare. The back end was way down, front end way up and just drifted all the way up hwy 5. Driving straight wasn't bad, but when making just a slight turn on the highway, your back end starts to dictate where the car goes. Very scary and nerve-racking. When I got to Sacramento, I went to a chevy dealer who told me that the car cannot tow, period. I got to Reno, went to a 4 wheel truck place (Donny's) and they put on a set of Helwig helper springs, which helped alot, but not what it should be. They also said they see alot of Tahoes and Yukons come in with the same problem.

When I arrived home, I went to the dealer I got the car from and they referred me to an expert salesperson who tows a big boat with his Tahoe. He told me that the Tahoe can tow. All he did was put on air shocks, a sway bar off a Surburban, bigger tires and high performance rear end oil. He burned his out already. I had a long letter writing campaign with GM in Detroit, to no avail obviously. My only consolitation is that they had "1500" on the side of early Tahoes, which usually depicts 1/2 ton. Now, on the new Tahoes and Yukons, they don't have that anymore.

I now have a Chevy 2500 pickup that is no problem to tow my vehicles.

My $.02.

Thanks,

Ron

[aumoore]

Another thing that helps is a long wheelbase. I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew with the tow package and I have no problems pulling a trailer. A Tahoe or Expedition have a short wheelbase and this will exagerate any swaying. Also you need LT tires not P tires as the P tires are ok if you do not haul or tow any loads.

[Flyin_Freddie]

Hiya, Jack....nice to see you back up and online with us. I've had mucho experience towing cars...towed my '85 911 Carrera all over the southeastern part of the US for over 12 years. I now own a 20' Pace Shadow that I tow my SPF in.

Like most others, I do indeed endorse a weight distributing hitch. This spreads the weight more evenly across all axles on the trailer and tow vehicle, and keeps the rear of your tow vehicle more level when you hook up to the trailer. Also, if your combined trailer and replica weight exceeds 5k lbs, an anti-sway device is a very good suggestion. You'll be amazed at the difference once these two improvements are made!

But, there is also one thing that has been eluded to by Cobralee in his post above...you MUST have at least 10% of the total weight of the trailer and load on the hitch tongue! Failure to do so WILL cause the swaying you experienced, especially at high speeds - TRUST ME ON THIS!. Since you and I both have a lot of aviation experience, you'll understand this swaying is sorta like a 'dutch roll' induced by too much speed and too small a verticle stabilizer surface. I have experienced BOTH the dutch roll and swaying trailer syndromes, and I can tell you the trailer is a much more nerve wracking experience!

Take your trailer with your Cobra in it down to a reputable trailer speciality shop. Tell them you want them to set your 'tongue weight' to balance your load with the Cobra in the trailer. They'll have you disconnect the trailer/Cobra from your tow vehicle and then they'll use a small scale to measure the weight on the hitch tongue. They'll probable ask you how much your Cobra weighs, too, so be prepared. Then, they'll most likely have you move the Cobra either forward or backward in the trailer to get 10-12% of that total weight on the hitch tongue. I'd suggest you taking both cars down there in separate trips so you'll know exactly where to position both vehicles inside your trailer.

Now, once that's done, should you decide to move other 'stuff' with your properly balanced trailer, simply start loading from the front of the trailer first. You want to make sure the bulk of the weight is in the front of the trailer. Preferrably this should be 10-12% of the total weight, as I mentioned earlier, but this will be difficult to calculate since you won't always have the weight of your load handy. For those occasions, I'd limit my speed to 60-65 tops...if you start swaying, however, your anti-sway bar and weight distributing hitch should control most of that much easier.

I damn near lost my Porsche on it's open trailer outside of Nashville several years ago because I had allowed my car to roll back several inches from the point that had been marked on the trailer. This caused the tongue weight to become too light for the load. It towed just fine until I got over 65. When it started to sway, the ice in my cooler in the back of my Explorer was sloshing back and forth so much that it splashed out of the cooler! That damned trailer was pushing me from one side of the road to the other and all I could do was try to keep the steering wheel centered and keep all the wheels going in the same direction. I just took my foot off the throttle and allowed the truck to slow down on it's own. Once I got below 55, it stopped swaying. I immediately knew the problem was the tongue didn't have enough weight on it. Sure enough, when I stopped at the next rest stop, I found the car had not been all the way against the chock when I strapped it down. I loosened the straps, moved the Porsche forward, and re-tied it down. Towed fine after that all the way back to Memphis.

MORAL: Weight distributing hitch if your combined trailer and payloiad exceed 5k lbs, anti-sway device for trailers 20' and over, and 10-12% of the total trailer and payload weight on the tongue. It'll tow just fine...

Hope this helps!