sbf oil pump shaft

simonjrwinter · #1 (**permalink**) 12-31-2001, 02:22 AM

I've just rebuilt my 302 windsor, but haven't installed the oil pump shaft. I was under the impression that it went in just before the distributor. It seems I was wrong, but do I need to take the sump off and put it in from underneath (with the washer on) or can I just drop it down the hole into the oil pump (without the washer) The engine is still on the stand so it's no big deal to take the sump off, but if it's not absolutely necessary, I'd rather not do it.
Thanks
Simon
simonjrwinter@hotmail.com

Greg Kulp · #2 (**permalink**) 12-31-2001, 06:30 AM

Simon,

I'm close to the same point in my sbf build. According to the information I have, you definatley want to install the oil pump driveshaft from below.

The Tinnerman retainer (washer) you refer to is important because it will (if properly installed) prevent the pump driveshaft from being lifted out of the oil pump when removing the distributor. If you don't use the retainer, the pump driveshaft could end up in your oil pan if you ever remove the distributor. I think it would be a lot more bother to have to pull the sump to retrieve the pump driveshaft after you already have the motor in the car.

Regards,

Greg

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-31-2001, 05:53 PM

The bad news is, you'll have to drop the oil pan, and oil pump and install the pump drive shaft in the pump. Then bolt the pump back in, then the oil pan. If you plan on "running" this motor any, use a heavy duty shaft, SVO or equivalent; not a stocker, and definately not the original one you took out of the motor.

The good news is, you won't have to do this from under the car if you accidentially drop the shaft into the oil pan trying to install it, or it slips while removing the distributor. And you'll always remember to install the pump drive shaft with the pump on any motor you build in the future (won't you).

Little lessons we all have to learn the hard way.

Another tip if you tear up the pan gasket while doing this. Cement the gasket to the block. Welwood or DAP contact adhesive works good on this. Then use wheel bearing grease to seal the pan to the gasket. Seals the oil in, but comes apart if you need to drop the pan for anything leaving the gasket intact and reuseable. Works for valve covers too. Makes vacuum tight seals on carb gaskets as well.

hound dog · #4 (**permalink**) 12-31-2001, 06:52 PM

Jack21,
Sounds like you may have forgotten this somewhere in the past like I did

h dog

Jack21 · #5 (**permalink**) 12-31-2001, 07:19 PM

Moi?? Nawww.

You have the carb off for a little tweaking and forget to stuff a rag into the intake. Ever drop one of those little ball check carb bearings down into the intake? Or a small nut, or socket? Or the distributor hold down bolt, or washer, or bracket down into the distributor hole?

You have the engine on a stand. The pan is on. You turn the engine over to bolt a head on and something drops, "Tink", "Tink" into the pan. You think, "Wait a minute, there's not supposed to be anything loose inside the pan".

Let's see...what other dumb and embarassing things have I done either being careless or trying to save time.

simonjrwinter · #6 (**permalink**) 01-01-2002, 03:57 AM

Thanks for all the advice guys, I pulled the sump off and put the shaft in so I shouldnt have any embarassing problems.
Thanks again

Simon