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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2017, 06:53 PM
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Default Mac's Engine Pivot Plates ?

Thier expensive, but are they worth it ?
They say it can tilt to 35°, what can the screw type leveler tilt to ?

I have a car lift and I'm wondering if I could tilt then engine with the Tremec attached, that I could get both in the engine bay together ?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2017, 08:06 PM
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I have removed my motor and TKO 600 several times (maybe 20 plus) in my Lone Star with a engine lift and Engine Load Leveler. You don't need anything fancy. Several beach towels for the front and fenders. A short 2 x 4 wrapped in a towel for the firewall. And two guys.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...2kit/overview/

here we are dropping a 427 into a CSX 6000 with my lift and lever. Note I have extended the arm on the lift to keep a safe distance from the paint.



in this picture you can see the 120 lbs of lead on the back of the lift used for counterbalance. We have removed / installed over 100 motors with this set up. I've loaned it out to several people over the years. No failure on the hydraulic cylinder, yet.

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2017, 06:42 AM
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I have never used one, but wished I had one several times. Assuming they are designed well and plenty beefy, I think they would be wonderful to use.

I work at a factory that winds large roll of plastic film, weighing up to 2000 lb or a little more. We use hoists continuously. The one thing I have learned is to check lifting equipment before using it. Things can crack over time and use. When a crack fails, it is sudden and total failure. I have never seen one slowly bend.
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:24 AM
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Dwight, this is the link I get for Summit.

https://www.viglink.com/shop/merchants

I'll get back reading the posts later today.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2017, 04:39 PM
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Since I only have a single stall garage I anchored a 2" thick x 6' long solid bar over my rafters and attach my 3 ton chain hoist, to remove and install my engines. Works great.
I've have used a 3 point hoist but since the Cobra's nose is so long I positioned it on the side of the car, and did the job fine.

I now have a MaxJax two post lift, works great too. I recall seeing photo's of Ford/Shelby mechanics raising the rear of the car in the air to angle the engine into the bay. So, I may think on how to safley use the lift to aid in installing the tranny on the engine.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2017, 05:54 PM
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Be careful putting that much weight on your ceiling joists. An FE and transmission could be pushing a half ton. You have to spread the weight over enough joists to handle the load, so the bean needs to be rigid and not bow. Depending on rafter construction or trusses, strength can vary quite a bit. Wood is quite unpredictable. I'm not saying it cannot be done, just make sure it is 4 times stronger than you think you need. It's a bad day, when a building collapses on top of you.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2017, 06:46 PM
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Not even close to worried, I measured no deflection with 500lbs. My neighbor is a engineer and said no issue. He's the one that gave me the 2" solid bar and the 6' length across the 2x10 @16" centers rafters is fine. Being in the midwest with heavy snowfall amounts, our house is built very strong.

I don't think 100lbs of my Tremec, billet aluminum flywheel, clutch and bell would make any difference, but I'll ask Gary.
Can't be too safe !
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 12-04-2017 at 06:56 PM..
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:22 PM
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Kevin, I think your setup will work fine. I use a yellow screw type engine leveler. I put the whole package together and install. I don't know the degree tilt, it works. There is a lot of moving the engine horizontal, vertical, then tilt. Repeat many times. I have the shift arm removed from the trans to get clearance. I am only moving the package 1" at a time. I do this by myself slowly and methodically. I have a MaxJax also. Got it so I could build my own headers. Best purchase I've ever made. I made an engine hoist from 2 hoists I bought from Kragen way back. Extended the rollers and the lift arm so I come in from the front. I do not use the MaxJax for any of that.
Side note. I race a vintage sprint car at Bonneville. Photos in my gallery albums.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:51 AM
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Tom, wow.....I love the sprint !

Back in 2011 we were racing our sprint at the Knoxville Nationals, I had a older gentelman checking out our new body wrap. He told me he has a 1961 sprint that he and others were having a exhibition race during intermission. I was very excited to see it. He told me to get in and try it out, so I did. lol A couple minutes later they pushed me backwards to he said to get it fired up for a heat cycle. When I got back he said he wanted me,.....to hot lap it !

What a great man, and it was a riot to race !
Although,....it really got me feeling just how open ans scary,.....these guys raced. Today, we are cacooned in the seat like a NASCAR driver, not back in thoee days !

Most people don't know, that the driver was actually better off to be thrown out of the car in a accident than to be belted in.

Great job in setting the record !
Car looks great.

I'll get back to you shortly.
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 12-05-2017 at 03:58 PM..
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2017, 03:52 PM
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Ok, back to the Cobra.

Did you buy into my MaxJax "Group Buy" several years ago, or on your own ?
I love mine as well, but if I could (wife would kill me) I'd sell it and get a full size lift because I don't use it for our car and truck, just the Cobra.

I would cut axcess holes in the ceiling for the two lifts post's, as they would only need about 2"-3" and maybe a 3" wide x 12" long slice in the ceiling to clear the roll bar. It may not require it though. That way I could stand erect rather than bent over or sitting on my stool.

Even though the Cobra is light enough, I would think about cutting holes in the floor and dig some earth out for a 6" thick concrete footing. I leave the MaxJax set up all the time anyway, so a permanent larger lift is fine.

For selling 7 lifts, Danmar gave me mine free, only paying shipping, a telescoping oil change container and a pair of forks that attach to one set of arms for atv's, lawnmorer, etc.

I have my Cobra low enough in stance that I need to push or drive onto small ramps to get the arms under the car. lol

How do you use yours ?
Do you leave it up or store it ?

It's great news that if I use my ceiling chain hoist and leveler that I can install the engine and tranny bolted together. In my younger days I could lift up and install the tranny by myself, but not,....anymore !
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2017, 05:27 PM
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My MaxJax is permanent. I made up longer hoses and ran them overhead. I bought it on my own. The round post under the pads I cut shorter. The arms swing under with 1/2" clearance. I have a 6" block of wood with wheels that is just the right height to roll around on sitting up. My favorite position is lying on a creeper with the car just the right height. Boy you scored getting it for free.
My Arntz cobra has a very large trans tunnel designed for an auto trans. I made a wooden plywood mockup of engine, trans, webers to check fitment. Photo in gallery. Didn't fit. Cut out the front frame cross member then it fit. Because it was light enough I could hold it and pretend I was using an engine hoist to see if it would work. It did. Maybe cut a piece of plywood in dimensions of the center cross section and see how much angle it takes. My trans support is welded in so I needed to get over that as the engine package came down and in.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:38 PM
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I have thought of cutting down the pad post's. I have two sets, one is 3" taller, and I like having the extra height. I have two nice stools with wheels with tool trays. I also have a great in height, tool box roll away that holds a lot of tools, parts and cleaning products.

I broke my neck years ago and have 3 vertebra fused, so I don't have full tilt of my neck.
It gets pretty sore looking up, so I can't do it for long.

I'll look at more of your pics.

If I ever built another Cobra, I would make a tilt front end, and removable as well. !

Was looking at your pics, where did you get that nice oil cooler by pass ?
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 12-05-2017 at 07:15 PM..
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:29 PM
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The oil cooler bypass I got online. I can lookup where I got it when I get home the 20th. I liked it because of the remote filter and bypass function. My oil runs to cold so I leave it at 0 flow. I wanted the look of an oil cooler.
Bummer about your neck. I ran across a creeper with a tilting bed up to 45 degrees on the internet a month ago. Think I saved it on my desk top computer at home. I'll look that up also. Very expensive, I would like to build it. I wonder if anyone uses HANS device.
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:39 PM
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Just found it on eBay, aerocreeper.
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:31 PM
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Very nice, but too rich for my wallet.

HANS,....lol !
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 12-07-2017 at 06:42 PM..
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:45 PM
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Hi Kevin,

I got the Oil Bypass Valve from Beaumont Metal Works Inc. in 2008 for $330.
Here is a review from one of our members.

Beaumont Cooler Bypass Valve and Block Adapter

I called and just got a message. Their web site does not show a bypass for sale but did in 2008. Maybe they have one left on the top shelf in the back room.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:11 PM
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I'll contact them and see.
Thanks Tom.
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