Flame shoots out right sidepipe...

[scratch]

What would cause a 4-5" flame to shoot out the sidepipe, on the right side only?

My mixture is not too rich and I'm afraid to go too lean.

The header-to-sidepipe connection is slip-fit and I think there is a slight leak (see some small exhaust stains), but would this do it? I have jammed aluminum foil in the void and seems to seal it.

Plugs, idle, acceleration all check out fine...

I wonder if I left a rag in the damn thing...?

I do have catylytic converters in both.

The right seems to run a bit hotter (to the gloved hand) than other side - but this be my imagination.

scratch

[66Cobra]

Sounds cool. Maybe you should fix the LEFT side.

[Whaler]

Sounds like unburnt gases seeing some oxygen in that leak you may have found.


Timing possibly, but then that wouldn't just affect one side.

" the continuing combustion of unburned cylinder charge after it is pushed out of the engine. It is COMBUSTION flame. The combustion continues and even accelerates once the exhaust charge starts expanding and dissipating into the atmosphere, where it encounters additional oxygen to help it along."

Could be a little of both timing and mixture.

Usually this stuff happens on the downshift or deceleration.

Whaler

[JAM1775]

I think a header/collector leak you cannot hear but can feel could cause some popping on deccel. A leak you can hear ticking can cause some more frequent and louder popping and may approach simulated backfire . I have had flames but only after a fairly good exhaust leak has been located yet....the motor runs great....only POW ! When I let up. If you are shooting flames are you backfiring loudly ? How does the motor run on the accel ?

[scratch]

Mike,Jam,Whaler,

Thanks for the response.

...it doesn't pop or misfire on either acceleration or deceleration and I only notice it while rev'ing during idle.

I now believe it might be an exhaust leak where my sidepipes slip into my headers.

How do you fix something like that, doesn't seem like sealant would hold because of the high temp and pressure in that area.

Other than that it runs like a bat out of he;;...

scratch

[Toivo]

A South African company would charge you for that feature.
They mount flame-throwers under the doors of the car to ward off car-jackers.

[Jim Colman]

Scratch,
I fixed a small header-to-pipe leak on my car using some JB Weld. This stuff works great on small cracks or holes. If you've never used it, its basically two tubes of glue-like substance that, when mixed together, hardens into a solid substance. It will hold up to high temp.

Cheers
Jim

[cobrajeff]

Scratch -

I used to be able to shoot some pretty neat flames out my side pipes.

I took the pipes off and individually tweaked the fit of each pipe to the collector. I bought short exhaust adapter sections at an auto supply (1-7/8" to 2.0", 2.0" to 2.25") and used them to tweak the collector pipe by pounding them onto the end with a rubber mallet. This allowed me to very slightly open up or tighten up each joint as needed. Then, just before final assembly, I wipe the inside of the female pipe with orange Hi-Temp Silicone sealant. A lot of work, but, it worked for me.

Good luck,

cobrajeff

[scratch]

Cobra Jeff, it would be a lot of work, but probably worth it. Most of my header tubes come straight at the sidepipe tubes, but a few are cockeyed.

If I can't straighten them out using your method, I will revert to something like JB Weld (thanks Jim).

If these sidepipes didn't look and sound so *****en I believe I would have run the exhaust under the car...saved myself a lot of time money and burnt skin.

scratch

[JAM1775]

My only concern about welding or even the silicone would be if they neded to be removed at some future date. As it is the push on collectors are a bit of work to get loose if one needs to pull the side pipes for some reason. They are even harder to install once they have been through many heat cycles so I guess some steel wool cleaning would be in order. I have not yet installed my new pipes in which I have gone from bolt on flange collectors to push ons. I recall on my older Cobra I used header wrap just around the seams above the collector with one large (18")hose clamp. It worked . I hope these new pipes do not leak or I may be again crossing the same trail . BTW my wife helped me with a little sidepipe install trick. Use CRISCO inside the sidepipe females. Once installed they smoke for a bit, smell like pancakes but hey ...they slip on beautifully !!

[scratch]

Put me down for this piece of wisedom:

If the header tubes don't fit tight and STRAIGHT into the sidepipes, you will enjoy leaks, as witnessed by exhaust stains and air pressure against the hand.

What makes matters worse is that I already had everything ceramic coated, so anything I do will affect the nice finish.

They were such a ***ch to get on because of the few "cock-eyed" header tubes, that I hope never to remove them again.

However I would like to paint the car someday!

Nothing like being in a hurry toward the end...

scratch

[Back in Black]

I want to know how my C**** can also do this!!

Let us know, maybe you can market it and make some bucks

[R U YELLA]

Didn't some pip squeak awhile back say that he had a friend of a buddy who found a cobra with igniters? Which reminds me - we havn't had one of those threads pop up recently!

[JAM1775]

Installing the slide ons is much easier if you lubricate the collectors inside then loosen the headers just a bit. Tap on the collectors , as there should be enough play in each header tube to move and be directed in line with the inside of collector tubes. Use the baloney tip for leverage and/or hit the collectors with a rubber mallet. Tie the collector tabs with a bolt. Bolt up the side pipes then tighten the header bolts to specs. If the headers are tight mounting the sidepipe/collector is much harder.