Lines between Master Cylinders & Remote Reservoirs

Cobra 29 · #1 (**permalink**) 03-03-2002, 05:52 PM

My Cobra is has a combination of metal lines and hose between the remote reserviors and the master cylinders. The metal lines lead away from the reservoirs and then connect to rubber hose which connects to the masters cylinders. To reduce the chance of leaks (eliminating connections) would it be better to run the rubber line between the reserviors and master cylinders? What type of hose should I purchase to ensure compatability with the brake fluid?

Bob Putnam · #2 (**permalink**) 03-04-2002, 04:18 AM

'29,

We use metal intermediate lines where they come near the exhaust pipes - rubber eventually will harden from the heat. We've also experienced some weep from the rubber line, even when it comes from Tilton, so we try and minimize the amount of rubber in the system.

Roscoe · #3 (**permalink**) 03-04-2002, 06:54 AM

I am using a floor mounted pedal set and ran the Tilton supplied rubber lines through the footbox and into the cockpit to attach to the master cyliders. It avoids the heat from the headers and has very little exposure in the engine compartment.

Roscoe

CSX 4027 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-04-2002, 07:41 AM

If you ask any of the hose companies, I do not think you will get any to put their blessing on use with brake fluid. It will expand and distort the inside of the line causing a non consistent pedal and of course will leak. Use metal or steel braided teflon made for brake fluids.

If you want the original rubber look like I did, get your line sized in steel braided teflon and then slip them into a rubber line to cover the steel braid. It will give you the look you want along with an extra layer of protection

Evan, did you get that

Roscoe · #5 (**permalink**) 03-04-2002, 08:07 AM

Steve,
You are absolutely correct! I installed the rubber lines because they were included and I wanted to get it done. I plan to upgrade the lines from the reservoirs to the mc's from rubber to braided in the future. Of course I have the stainless lines from the chassis to the calipers. This makes a big difference in pedal feel.
Roscoe

Whaler · #6 (**permalink**) 03-04-2002, 08:36 AM

I have not connected my feed lines to my floor mounted wildwood masters yet. My builder mounted the three remotes on the firewall between the footboxes. The original rubber hoses are there all right but they are not long enough to get to where they should.
I also do not have my pieces on the masters where the line would have connected as he does not like them and said he was having metal pieces machines.
In the end we will end up using hardline and tube fittings to connect the feed lines... If I knew right now what the threads were on the ports of these machined pieces, I would be working on it as we speak.
Likely be hard line from the masters up to the points on the firewall...could likely skip the rubber too..

Tim

Wayne Maybury · #7 (**permalink**) 03-07-2002, 12:43 PM

Bob

You are absolutely right (as usual) about the rubber hoses weeping. I used the rubber hoses supplied by Tilton and I found that they got all wet after a few months. I have been considering changing to braided stainless but I have been told that it will not stand up to DOT 3 brake fluid.

Is there a grade of stainless hose that will do this job? I have stainless hose on the calipers but it is far too small to be used between the masters and the remote reservoirs.

Wayne

Whaler · #8 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 03:44 PM

Wayne..assuming the first hoses were the rubber push-0ns...why not just go with braided as you suggest but go up a size or two..I assume it will be an AN-8
lt definitely isn't 1/4" or 3/8" and more likely is 1/2 so get braided in the applicable size and push it on with some of the same clamps you originally had..
Brake lines were probably AN-3 or -4

Also it will be compatible with Brake fluid if you specify so.

Tim

CSX 4027 · #9 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 03:54 PM

I would not push on and clamp a braided line. Converting to hose ends should be easy enough. I don't think you can clamp and seal a braided line and your sure to hurt the teflon liner causing leaks.

Whaler · #10 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 04:01 PM

CSX thanks for the advice...I did not know that and did not think there was much more than gravity feed pressures to worry about...the backing nut on the actual braided hose fitting does quite a number on the connection as well.
I couldn't see the teflon liner collapsing as it would be supported by the inner push-on...

Was an uneducated suggestion..

Where most will be screwed is that the reservoirs have only the plastic male nipple Going to a braided hose adaptor could be interesting....the masters also have the same cheap plastic fittings and bowl caps

Thanks
Tim

CSX 4027 · #11 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 04:16 PM

Gravity or pressure. Brake fluid seems to want to sneak out any way it can. The original Girling Resevoir cans and Masters on the feed side all have fittings. They must of had a reason for it. Surely the clamps are a quicker fix to fit. Quicker is not always better.
Just my opinion.

Besides, Any time I spill brake fluid it messes up my beautiful blue epoxy garage floor!

Whaler · #12 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 04:36 PM

Gravity feed is pressure..only slight though..depending on the specific gravity of the fluid and the elevation...maybe 2 or 3 feet... To give you a reference ..1 PSI of water pressure is equivalent to 27.68 inches (2.33 feet)of head height (aka water column). With water having an S.G. of 1.0
So I ask how much clamping pressure does one need?? Toobad we simply couldn't find a suitable rubberhose that does not break down and get soft with brake fluid

Now looking back on the original post,I see that he has metal lines off the remote reservoirs., so maybe he can use metal NPT here. Don't really know what he has at the masters...as he mentions going to rubber hose...Easy to do as this is where all the fun bends would be...

I had assumed he had the tilton or wildwood setup, as its very common.

Yes if he had the set up you had he could do many things..why not hardline the whole works??

What did the originals run??

Tim

CSX 4027 · #13 (**permalink**) 03-08-2002, 06:41 PM

Hard line are best but my set up was posted earlier on this thread.
Originals ran braided rubber with fittings

wadesdad · #14 (**permalink**) 03-11-2002, 08:58 AM

I am using a power brake set-up from a Mercury Villager. I got the master cylinder at Autozone and the reservoir through Ford. Unfortunately, there is only a part number on each of the 2 hoses supplied.

Ford may be able to provide some sort of spec or a better source might be Gates, who manufactures hoses.

wadesdad

jeff_taylor · #15 (**permalink**) 03-11-2002, 12:16 PM

Guys,
You should be able to find some of the rubber hose stock that is used on production vehicles for the flex lines between the calipers and the rigid lines on the frame. This stuff lasts for years without softening or leaking. Try a local brake service house. Most of the popular auto parts stores are only going to have pre-made assemblies.