Tubular Front Susp

Clois Harlan · #1 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 12:20 PM

Although I have coil over shocks I don't have tubular front upper and lower A-arms. I still have the basic stamped Mustang II front susp. However, I have noticed a bit of a rub on my upper ball joints bolts and inside my tire rim. Nothing very serious but it is creating a nice shjine on one of my ball joint bolts the inside of my rim.

I want to know if all the after market front tubular A-Arms are basically the same for a Cobra application or are there some better than the others? Which would you recommend? I want to get mine changed out before Run and Gun. In checking I have found prices for both upper and lower fronts range between $400 (Shell Valley) and about $700. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Clois Harlan · #2 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 03:23 PM

I can't believe no one has an opinion on this subject. This group always seems to have an opinion on everything. Oh well if a nod is as good as a wink to a blind man then there apparently isn't any major differences in manufactures so I guess I will go with the cheaper units.

mr bruce · #3 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 03:29 PM

The Best ,www.outlawrods.com

dscott · #4 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 03:36 PM

I use the Heidts upper and lower arms. Never had a problem. I've probably used about 50 sets.
Don

Slow Dawg · #5 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 05:14 PM

Hi Clois. Have you tried calling Karen and tell her to bypass Darryl and talk directly to Bryan? I figure Bryan might give you a better deal since you've taken out about 4 equity loans against your house to pay for your car!

Oh hell, just drop off your car again along with a blank check

and we'll do the rest!

Ron

wicked fast · #6 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 06:46 PM

Clois,

Check out

www.speedwaymotors.com

Search street rod parts for control arms.

I used them on my Mid-States.

They use the HUGE screw in Chrysler ball joint.

I will be working on mine tomorrow, let me know if you want a picture of them installed.

Later dude,
Bill Cook

petek · #7 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 07:04 PM

Maybe it's applicable only to me.... but I'm going to invest in a bit of driving (and perhaps a driving school) before I go totally tubular

I figure that a little training and practice will do better for my driving (at this point) than a set of tubular A arms.

trctrdrvr · #8 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 08:10 PM

Clois,
I have the Shell Valley tubular arms installed on my chassis if you want I can e-mail pics.

Mike

Junket · #9 (**permalink**) 08-02-2002, 09:50 PM

Hello Clois
Y are about to enter the deep dark entity of front end geomerty I would invest in a couple of books and find out what makes things work ( Steve Smith good source) Working with Shell Valley they base there front end on the Mustsng ll front end the bump steer is not to bad with a 4" ride, height they use the same spindles and have the same kingpin inclination. The books will hit on Scrub Radius (tire patch when you make a turn-- can't feel what the car is doing or moving around) this has a direct relation on the wheel off set ( nice shine ball joint). This is why they say 17" tires makes a new cobra with 17" vers 16".I am sure there is some a lot more versed on than I out there.but I belive a few $ on books is a good outlay.
Ken

Roscoe · #10 (**permalink**) 08-03-2002, 07:42 AM

Give Art Morrison a call.

http://www.artmorrison.com/

Roscoe

Jack21 · #11 (**permalink**) 08-03-2002, 08:41 AM

This group - no opinions! Never happen!

Switching to tubular should eliminate your tire rubbig against the ball joint. OEM stamped steel have a lot more metal outside the ball joint center that tubulars do not. If you still have tire rub with tubulars, then you have too much wheel backspacing. Put a wheel shim between wheel and rotor.

Heidts is a street rod shop. Don't talk to them about Cobras, they don't want to hear it. But they're tech section on how the MII front suspension works is a must read for anyone building a MII based front end.

Using Heidts upper "D" arms. The place to go for this is RCC Specialties. http://www.dwayne9.addr.com/. They have uppers, and lowers for this setup with a slightly lower shock mount. Gives shock more travel. Also have the Carrera coil overs. And they know Cobras.

Another place to look is bethania-garage.com. Tom Beroth has the best upper control arm brackets for MII suspensions. Set alignment with shims, and it stays put. He also has uppers, lowers, and coil-overs as well.

Manual steering, Flaming River rack is the best way to go. Power (yes, you can have power steering in your Cobra), use rebuilt standard ratio, high effort valving, late ('79-up) Mustang by AGR, and reconditioned pump by AGR. Both Saginaw and Ford pumps will work. The Saginaw is common on most GM's, but it's not a Chevy pump. Ford pickups and vans use them and Ford brackets are readily available for any Ford engine. With the Saginaw, RB's Antique Automotive sells a low pressure relief valve for better steering effort for lightweight front ends. Setup works very well.

Brakes. For 15" wheels, the minimum should be the Granada 11" rotor - mid-GM caliper conversion. For 17's, look at 13" rotor setups from Baer.

Clois Harlan · #12 (**permalink**) 08-04-2002, 07:28 AM

I knew there was opinions out there and good ones too. As far as the driving school I have already done that at a road course and also at a Richard Petty Driving School (Petty was a lot of fun but didn't learn to much I didn't already know).

I have the Speedway catalogue as well as a few others and I have been online looking at some other applications. Morrison was recommended by one of the speed shops here but I had forgotten about him until now. Thanks everyone for your input.
What ever decision I make it has to be soon because I don't want any problems at St. Louis.

Clois