Unstarted engine?

[bran3b]

What would need to be done to a rebuilt, but unstarted 10 year old engine? I am helping a friend with a restoration project with a rebuilt 289, but it was put together 10 years ago. Do we have to take the engine apart and replace the seals, or can we do something less time consuming?

Thanks.

[Jerry Cowing]

Bran3b,

It's anyone's guess depending on how it was stored, etc.

Personally, I'd pull the oil pan and valve covers and look for rust. If you see rust -- rebuild it. If no rust, put some engine break free in each cylinder spark plug hole and turn the engine over by hand. If it turns easily by hand, put it on an engine stand designed for running in an engine, pull the distributor, put fresh oil in the engine, and turn the oil pump with an electric drill until you see oil on your lifters/rockers. Re-install the valve covers and then start the engine and see if it leaks or blows a lot of blue smoke. If it doesn't blow a lot of blue smoke after running it a few minutes, its probably good to go. If it continues to blow blue smoke - rebuild it. If it blows blue smoke just when you initially start the engine each time after this run in period, you'll probably need to replace the valve seals.

[bran3b]

Thanks Jerry, you hopefuly saved us a lot of time.

[Mr.Fixit]

How much is piece of mind worth to you? For me, it would take at least a gasket set (those will be dried out and worthless) so that I could take it completely apart and verify everything. Every clearance, every component, EVERYTHING. The assembly lube is gone, the cam break in lbe is gone, probubly rust everywhere, including the cylinder bores. I would take it all the way apart, rehone the cyl and lifter bores, measure all the clearances, then reassemble and have the piece of mind required. Easier now than after it's in the car and you realize something's rotten.

[Jeb]

When you write "engine", does that include the carb?

Was this engine EVER run (cam assembly lube made use of?)?

How has it been stored?

[bran3b]

The engine was set in the car (never properly installed) an then the car was stored in a garage. to my knowlege it was never started. The builder was a decent mechanic, but is not around any more to ask details about the rebuild.

The garage is not heated, but it doesn't get below freezing in the garage. The new radiator wasn't filled.

I expect to have to disassemble the carb since I am not sure if it was ever rebuilt.

[Jack21]

Ditto Mr Fixit's recommendation. 10 years is way too long for an engine to sit, unstarted (and even if it was running), to fire it up, and drive away.

At the very least, gaskets, seals, including PCV aand breather grommets. And valve stem seals. More than likely will need cylinder and lifter bores re-honed. Rings are iffy, depending on how bad the cylinder walls are rusted. Unless you want to disassemble, and solvent wash each lifter, replace them. Disassemble the oil pump, and check for rust.

Then reassemble like it was a new engine. Fresh break-in grease on the cam, and distributor gear. Distributor shaft, water pump, fuel pump, carb may need cleaning and testing. New plug wires and plugs.

But, you'll have a known fresh engine when finished, and piece-of-mind (as Mr. Fixit said) driving it any further than around the block.

[A Snake]

I agree with all of the above recommendations. Mr. Fixit, what would it cost assuming not having to replace parts? $400-$500?

Do it yourself cost, just a complete gasket set and renting any tools you don't own or can't borrow. (not including rusty parts)

[Jack21]

Low side, $150 - $250. High side, $400 - $500. Depends on how bad the rust is when you get it apart. Once you pull the pan and heads, you'll know.