10-15-2002, 12:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
Canton's pans aren't the best out there, but are certainly as good as most "factory" pans. You will need to bend the crank scraper back if you run a stroker crank. You should also check the pan rails for flatness and straightness, on any oil pan. A diamond screen windage tray should be fitted on every performance engine with a wet sump. Baffling and trap doors in the sump are nice too (see milodon pans). Check the clearance of the pickup to the pan with a blob of clay (sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum foil) and make sure it's 1/4" to 3/8" of space. Clean all mating surfaces very good with thinner, go slowly, work your way around the oil pan as you tighten the pan bolts, it will take a few laps to get them all snug. Then snug them again later when you change the oil. This keeps most of the oil within the pan, unless you run synthetic, it can usually find a way out of there because synthetic just loves spotting up driveways. "The right stuff" is the greatest thing since sliced bread, thick, tacky, conforming, pricey, it sure beats regular silicone.
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In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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