Procedure for changing oil with an Accusump?

[Sizzler]

Change oil, replace 7 quarts with new.
What about the 3 quarts in the Accusump?
How do you get that changed?
That bad oil then gets mixed with the freshly changed new oil?

Step by step, what's the procedure?

Thank you very much

[Frank Giustinia]

Sissler, I checked with accsump. They said open the valve to the accusump without the motor running.

[Fred Hamilton]

After I drain the motor I will then turn the key on which in turn gives power to the valve and drain the remaining 3 qts. After everything is drained, I fill my filters with oil and then add another 7 qts to the engine, start and let the Accusump fill and then add the remaining to top off. With my set up its about 12 qts for a oil change.

[Sizzler]

Thanks for the replies.

You describe the way I thought it must work, but that means that while the Accusump is filling, the oil level in the engine is dropping by 3 quarts until the Accusump is filled?!

There's no way to fill the Accusump separately, as you do the filters, other than by letting it draw down the main oil supply for the engine. Intuitively, this sounds like a bad thing to do...run engine until it's 3 quarts low, then fill it up.

Thanks

[Back in Black]

(and me, cause I have the 3 qt unit with electric solenoid..ready to install upon delivery)

Cannot simply start out with a refill of one quart too much in the pan...this way you will "only" be down, at most, 2 to 4 quarts (3 to 4 low, with oil cooler) ...but if you run it a VERY short time after the refill, low rpms, you should not cause any harm ...say, 30 seconds to one minute max?

[fordracer]

Idling a car for a few minutes 3 quarts low on a 7 quart system won't hurt. I've had many a car come in the shop 3+ quarts low on a 4 quart system and idle fine, driving is another story because that remaining 1 quart is sloshing around in there not being picked up by the pick up screen. As said earlier just overfill by 2 quarts, let the Accusump fill, then add the remaining quart.

[Hal Copple]

one of the reasons i delayed so long about adding the A'sump ( i have the 2 quart one in my SPF's engine compartment) is because i was worried that it would "steal" oil from the engine when the accusump refilled.

But in discussing with the Canton folks, the return valve is restricted, so while it can dump the oil plenty fast, it is slower on the return inlet flow back into the A'sump. I have not noted any delay in running my engine back up and watching the oil pressure gage on the engine, even when the A'sump is refilling at the same time. My guess is that the oil pressure bypass spring in the oil pump notes the lessened oil flow resistance, and simply momentarily pumps more oil to both the engine and the A'sump.

I toggle the A'sump with the engine off, then suck it all out via the dipstick tube, then add a crankcase's worth of oil, start the engine, turn the sump off, which still allows it to fill with an electrical valve (the electric valve is one way only, it only discharges the oil, the sump will always accept any oil pressure from the engine, if the sump has less oil pressure than whatever the engine is putting out. )

Then re-check the dipstick, and add about a quart and a half, to bring it up to full with the A'sump also filled and ready for the next cold start.

Interestingly, if you have the electric valve, you cannot just turn the switch on, dump the oil into the system, then turn it off, and have that oil stay in the motor. It will go right back to the A'sump as soon as the oil pressure rises. The one way return valve is always open on the electric valve.

Keeps folks from running around with an overfull crankcase if they turn the valve off and drive around.

[TheRobb]

Am I correct in assuming that an accusump is a pressurized resevoir that stores oil, so that when the oil gets low, or the pressure gets low, it kicks in and sorta "tops off" the system?

-Robb