Accusump electric valve install ?

PSB · #1 (**permalink**) 11-29-2002, 09:32 PM

The electric valve for the Accusump has an arrow on it. Which way should the arrow point - towards the Accusump or towards the engine?

Thanks,
Pete

Hal Copple · #2 (**permalink**) 11-29-2002, 10:04 PM

having put one in recently, and had to replace the valve last week, the arrow points AWAY from the accusmp.

Hal Copple · #3 (**permalink**) 11-29-2002, 10:05 PM

by the way, if you want a little installation hint or two and a few digital pictures, i can send them on to you. send me a note to my email, and i can fire some off to you. How it wired it, mounted it, etc.

750hp · #4 (**permalink**) 11-29-2002, 10:30 PM

While we're on the topic of elec solenoids, why would the electric valve re-pressurise the Accusump slower than a manual valve?

Accusump recommend a manual valve for applications that might require a fast recharging of the system (such as roadracing), but say that street or dragstrip use is fine with the elec valve.

If I fit a manual valve, would to open the hood every time I start and stop the car??? Surely there would be too much of a delay in oil delivery if I mount the Accusump on the trans tunnel, wouldn't there?

Any ideas on how this is overcome?

Hal Copple · #5 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 05:48 AM

because the manual valve is a much simpler design, with larger passeges. I had toyed with the idea of mounting the handle inside, but finally figured the costs of all the AN hoses and connections to do so would be much more expensive than the $95 electric valve. I think the manual valve is designed just for racing, you pre-lube the motor, then just drive with it on.

The inner passages are smaller in the electric valve, as it has what appears to me to be two passages, not just a big hole like the manual valve. And yes, you would have to open the hood each time you wanted to turn the manual one on or off.

I honestly don't believe a car needs one of these things, on the road courses, my rollbar video never showed my oil pressure to drop, i have an Aviad road race pan. And cars make many millions of "dry" starts every day, and the engines last a long long time.

But they look cool, and give us excessively compulsive owners something addtional to tinker with, and to spend our money on.

I think the only real use for us if one infrequently starts his engine.

Tommy · #6 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 07:40 AM

Craig-
I believe the manual valve application in a race car calls for the valve to be placed in the cockpit within reach of the driver. That can be done either by placing the accumulator in the cockpit or by running a hose from the accumulator to a manual valve in the cockpit and then to the engine.

Incidentally, I ruined the cam and distributor gears in my stock 351W engine by pulling oil away from the pickup while autocross racing. I rebuilt the engine with a Canton road race pan, but noticed the oil pressure still dropped to about 20 PSI under heavy braking. I added the Accusump with electric valve and the oil pressure hasn't been a problem since then.

PSB · #7 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 09:19 AM

Hal,

Thanks for the info. I already have my Accusump installed, but the other thread about changing the oil got me wondering if I had the valve installed in the right direction.

Pete

Cobra #42 · #8 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 09:26 AM

Hal, I have a Panoz road race car with 351 Winsor with a Caton multi trap door oil pan. Currently it also has two oil sensors, one sensors goes to a Auto Meter analog guage and the other to a Stack data acquistion system. I noticed on several occasions while racing, after installing the Stack system that the oil pressure would drop from 60lbs to 6-8 lbs just long enough to trigger the low oil pressure alarm on the Stack system. But the analog guage barely moved, I didn't think much about it until I burned a couple of rod bearings and stuck a connecting rod through the pan. I have installed now " Poor man's dry sump" the Accusump , problem solved. If you do any high speed work, long hard corners, I highly recommend, much cheaper than a rebuild. Thanks, db

PSB · #9 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 03:56 PM

I think Hal is correct about the electric valve being "slower" than the manual valve. Apparently, the electric valve has to have some pressure behind it before it closes. I just inadvertantly tested this theory.

I haven't fired up my engine yet, so I followed the Accusump instruction book procedures for pre-lubing a fresh engine. I depressurized the Accusump, removed the pressure valve core, removed the electric valve, pushed the cylinder down, and filled it with 2 quarts of oil. I then replaced the pressure valve core and the electric valve. Now comes the interesting part. When I went to pressurize the Accusump, about a half a quart of oil gysered out the electric valve before it closed! Nothing like a nice oil shower

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get oil out of one's nose?

Pete

Hal Copple · #10 (**permalink**) 11-30-2002, 08:28 PM

i have seen the Panoz cars at Road Atlanta, what fine cars they are! I am aware of the Stack system, too.

I put a 20 PSI pressure warning sending unit in my Ernie Elliot NASCAR oil filter remote mount, it sends to a bright red light i put in a small aluminum bracket with sticky foam tape right on my dash, aimed at my eyes. It lights instantly if my pressure drops below 20 PSI. For $20 bucks, it was pretty cheap insurance. I too believe a momentary loss of oil pressure may pass unnoticed on the oil pressure gage.

By the way, i only pre-lube my starts, and leave the sump "on" when i am doing track stuff, for street driving, i leave it off. In my way of thinking, it lessens wear on the cylinder bore in the sump. so instead of constantly pumping/accepting oil as my pressures fluctuate, it holds the highest pressure the engine sends, until i toggle it to release.

It looks really racy under the hood, in front of the engine, seems to intregue folks who admire my engine.

750hp · #11 (**permalink**) 12-01-2002, 06:48 AM

All good engines need some oil control. Here's a local guy who recently put a twin turbo big block into his street car. It ran 7.8 @ 177mph.

These cars originally came from the factory with a 138 cubic inch monster motor....

Bob Putnam · #12 (**permalink**) 12-01-2002, 10:58 AM

Turbos can also benefit from post-shutdown oil flow to prevent its oil from coking.

Does he really run that thing with the turbo open like that???

Get a pebble kicked up when it's turning 100,000 rpm and there'd be some serious stuff coming through the hood.

750hp · #13 (**permalink**) 12-02-2002, 12:50 AM

Bob - this guy has spent more money on his toys than I'll ever earn in a lifetime, and he's probably 30 years old...

There's a guy on the Aust Club Forum that's building his motors now, but I would suggest that he's broken more motors than any other guy that I've ever met, or been told about.

I once saw him over-rev his 500ish cube methanol blown big block to the point of near destruction doing a burnout at the drags. Sure enough, the motor let go during the race, kicking a conrod out before 1/3rd track. He drove it all the way through the finish line, all the way back along the return road and into his pit area - leaving a trail of oil and water the whole way. Not to mention what a broken conrod and a lack of oil is doing to the few good remaining parts inside the motor....