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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 01:33 PM
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Default Leaking slave cylinder (clutch)

My slave cylinder is leaking. The dripping is coming from the bottom of the bell housing. I understand the only way to fix this is to pull the transmission. Is that true ? If so what will I be looking for when I do pull the transmission? If not what else should I try prior to pulling the transmission?
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Old 05-03-2003, 02:33 PM
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Do you have a hydraulic throw out bearing? If not your slave cylinder is bolted to the bellhousing on the outside. Now don't take this wrong, but if you didn't know that, this is the point in the manual that refers you to your local Authorized SPF Repair facility


Seriously, you likely are not ready for step #2 if you were not sure where to find your slave.. But should you wish to proceed start by cleaning off any and all brake fluid. Brake fluid eats paint and will destroy any painted surface in hours.

Then, follow the line from the clutch master cylinder to the trans. There should be a small hyhraulic cylinder at the end of the line. Make sure it is leaking.. Take it off.. Plug the hydraulic line or let it drain into a glass container. (do not reuse) Take it to your local Authorized SPF Repair Facility for a rebuild or a rebuild kit.. actually with any luck a good auto parts store should be able to get you a replacement or a rebuild kit.

Chances are you have a very easy to find comercially available unit that is either a pusher or puller type and hopefully it is marked with amaker and a part number for easy reference.

if not you may want to contact SPF especially if it is under warranty.
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Old 05-03-2003, 07:21 PM
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Warranty? SPF doesn't warranty engine install! Especialy if I put it in. What if it was put in upside down, or I used round-up for oil ?

I followed the hoses from the mater cylinder into the bell housing. There is no slave mounted exterior to the bell housing. Can you tell me what this means ?
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Old 05-03-2003, 07:36 PM
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You have a hydraulic throwout bearing.These are known to leak and are of course a pain to fix.The tranny will have to be dropped to fix or replace.This is no big deal if you have the inclination but it takes time and a lift is nice.I would suggest replacing with a external slave cylinder from autoworks or other source;it is a simple install and a simple fix if problems pop up.The bad part about your problem is it probably is a 25 cent o ring that failed. chuck
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Old 05-03-2003, 08:33 PM
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Thanks Chuck. It's interesting how little things = big jobs.

So why do people use the system I have over an externally mounted slave cylinder ? If my clutch is hydrolic will I need to replace it when I add the slave cylinder ? Anything else I'm missing ?
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Old 05-03-2003, 08:58 PM
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It is used very commonly,in fact I have a new one I decided not to use after hearing the down sides.It is a very simple system and can work very well but I dont like to pull trannys so I went with an autoworks unit;10 minute install and adjustable.You do not need to change your mastercylinder or your plumbing for the most part just make sure you match up bore size of master and slave for best pedal feel.Remember they are both hydraulic but you will need to pick up a clutch arm to attach to slave cylinder and also a new throwout bearing( 10 bucks at autozone) chuck
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:09 PM
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got a wrench?
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:28 PM
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Michael,

I have safety wire pliers and baling wire !
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Old 05-03-2003, 09:31 PM
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Seems like I hear about these hydraulic throwout bearings every month or so....................always the same puzzler ????????? .....what is that fluid coming out of my bellhousing?????....they are either a very touchy install or they are poorly designed either way i think it is" throw-out"
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Old 05-03-2003, 11:13 PM
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Hey Dude, what's up...

the seal in your hydraulic throwout-bearing is probably bad - if it indeed is an internal vs. external setup. Sounds like it from the responses above. If it's a Tilton Hydraulic setup, I can guarantee it it's that dumb f***in garbage seal that went bad or popped out. It's rare that a line would be leaking. BTW: Check your records to see if it was in any stacks of receipts when you bought the car. It might be a Tilton or a McLeod, or maybe even a Ram hydraulic throwout bearing. I bet it's in your paperwork from the previous owner/installer. If not, call that builder to see what they use.

I ran a hydraulic/internal in the past, and ended up pulling that setup out and going back to the more conventional/external setup that can be serviced on the side of the road - if needed. The internal type hydraulic bearing setups work great, when they are working. And when they fail, it's time to pull the tranny. Southern Automotive or CobraAccessories makes a nice external setup if you want to buy a kit with brackets, lines, etc... Call me or email me if you need help. See Ya.
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Last edited by decooney; 05-03-2003 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 05-03-2003, 11:33 PM
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Thanks Duane. What's new, give me a call some time.
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:38 AM
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I have shied away from internal TOB due to the reasons stated, they are a pain in the a$$ to replace. But I got to thinking (here we go again) many cars and trucks today have them and go 100K miles and more with no failures..... why then are we having so much trouble? Must be in the "engineering" end of the job. Nothing wrong with the bearing... nothing wrong with the master cylinder... nothing wrong with the clutch....
The problem is the intergration of these parts. All to often we mix and match parts that seem to look right, but lack the ability to work together "correctly". Mostly we solve these problems by some rube goldberg fix..... or in these cases, a pedal stop. Everytime I see this problem, it's usually due to not having a pedal stop, or having one that is not adjusted correctly. It's a workable fix and a cheap one to boot
My daily driver has a hydraulic TOB and no pedal stop... the Ford engineers did a good job at parts selection I guess.
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Old 05-05-2003, 01:11 PM
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What external setup are you guy's running with the T-5 Transmissions? Where can I get an external setup for the best price.

Thanks
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:26 PM
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Mike,

My Cobra started out with a 302/T-5 trans and did NOT use either (internal or external) hyd assistance. I was not running the strongest pressure plate avail either but I was using a medium duty ram clutch set up. My HP was about 330.

I am running a hyd t/o brg now because there is not enough room between my bell housing and frame to use a conventional clutch-clutch rod-throw out bearing set up. I am not a big fan of my set up either. So, unless you just can't push your clutch in and hold it in at stop lights I would not use either method. Besides you get a better feel of your clutch without assistance. Another plus to NO HYD Assistance is that it will keep your wife out of the drivers seat too.

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Old 05-05-2003, 04:05 PM
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Mike,try Autoworks web site,their system is as simple as it gets and special made for T5. chuck
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:06 PM
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Mike,try Autoworks web site. chuck
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:01 PM
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Chuck,
Could you provide the URL for the Autoworks website that you directed Mike to?
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Old 05-05-2003, 08:02 PM
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www.autoworks.cc/
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Old 05-07-2003, 12:13 AM
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This is the slave we use on a skater shield bellhousing Neat clean $30.00 at Napa You do have to drill 3 holes and build a push rod and a return spring makes work better.
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Old 05-07-2003, 07:13 PM
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Top of the Hill has the slave clutch setup in kit form...but you will still have to pull the tranny to get the hyrd throw out bearing out of your life.
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