Gasket Adhesives

TonyMadrid · #1 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 08:52 AM

Looking for members' opinions on gasket adhesives.

What is the recommended adhesive of choice? Also, same adhesive for all applications, or different adhesives depending on the component?
Oil Pan & Valve Covers? Water Pump? Fuel Pump? Timing Case Cover? etc.

What's the scoop on spray adhesives vs. silicones vs. regular gasket cement?

Tony

Mr.Fixit · #2 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 09:02 AM

Gaskacinch will hold a gasket in place for easier assembly. Silicone will help seal the mating surfaces. "the right stuff" can outright replace a gasket, (but good luck removing the valve cover on your 53 willy's after gluing it on with that stuff.)

for an oil pan I like to: glue the rail gaskets in place to the block with gaskacinch, put a small blob of silicone at the parting lines where the rubber end seals meet thoe rail gaskets, and then run a very small bead of silicone around the whole gasket before setting the pan on.
Some people like to glue their valve cover gaskets to their valve covers with a variety of adhesives. I don't, I prefer having studs which will keep the gaskets lined up just fine during valve cover reinstall. I hate scraping off glued on cork remnants.

BB427 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 09:09 AM

I personally do not like using any gasket cement on any of the above mentioned surfaces. A dab of silicone in the corners of the pan seals,at the end of the intake seals,and some high temp. ATV on the header flanges but other than that just the gasket itself. If the surfaces are clean and straight the gasket should take care of it. I always use a good quality gasket set not the el'cheapo paper sets.

scottj · #4 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 09:33 AM

Clear silicone, except for the valve covers where I use the blue, molded rubber, FelPro gaskets.

I run vacuum in the crankcase, commonly refered to as a "sealed engine", so it as to be air-tight.

The silicone is used on both sides of the intake, oilpan, timing cover, and distributor gaskets. It's also used on the waterpump gaskets and on the head gaskets around the studs and coolant passages. Also under all the head washers. It's used again in place of header gaskets and as a thread-lock on the header bolts.

The silicone works so well on sealed engines that the same procedure is used on my vented engine. There really is no excuse for any fluid leaks using modern assembly technique.
Scott

Goose · #5 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 09:49 AM

Thanks for reading my mind. With my engine/trans assembly starting, I've been contemplating the same topic.

The first thing that I am going to encounter in the crate motor modification is the oil pan. I have a one piece rubber oil pan gasket with steel inserts at the bolt holes. Do I need to use adhesive and/or sealant with this type of gasket? How much do I torque the oil pan bolts?

How about the paper gasket that comes with the oil pickup?

Goose

jopper · #6 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 01:05 PM

I'm in the process of finishing up a 408 and two engine building manuals I have say to use only grease to hold the oil pump gaskets in place. The concern is about having silicon squeeze into the pump intake side of the gasket and eventually get into the pump.

Mr.Fixit · #7 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 02:19 PM

no silicone on the oil pump gasket.

BB427 · #8 (**permalink**) 07-11-2003, 03:28 PM

Grease only on the oil pump and I usually safety wire the two mounting bolts.

auto10x · #9 (**permalink**) 07-12-2003, 06:22 AM

Use no more "sealer" than necessary, and only a dab of silicone in the corners. More good engines have been ruined with excess silicone than most people realize.
auto10x
Bill