Gee, no wonder my car won't start

jhaynie · #1 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 05:14 AM

I started rewiring my solenoid/starter last night and found this great cable the "professional assembler" used between the starter and the solenoid.

I gave it a gentle pull and it came right apart. Some people have no pride in workmanship. How long did he really think it would hold together. If I wasn't the second owner of this car, I'd be screaming at someone right now. Hell, half of the wire was not even in the ring terminal, it was pushed to the side and trimmed off.

rdorman · #2 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 05:19 AM

That will do it every time! be sure to soder the whole mess together. Have you placed a post about your builder?
Rick

Aussie Mike · #3 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 05:41 AM

I find you can do a very solid job on those lugs without using a crimp tool. I made a curved anvil from scrap steel that the lug sits in and then do 2 crimps using a punch with a rounded nose. I clamp the anvil in the vice. Stip the cable and make sure it's well seated into the lug. lock the cable in with the first crimp and then finish the job with the second crimp beside it. Heat shrink over the end to keep the dirt and moisture out.

Cheers

Cobra20646 · #4 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 08:20 AM

Two things come to mind....

1. Don't try to crimp a "solder" lug.

2. Don't use a crimp lug on a high current load like a starter.

Solder the connector properly and you'll never have a problem!

- Jim -

jhaynie · #5 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 08:50 AM

I don't think the Weavers support/recommend this builder anymore, so posting his name wouldn't serve a purpose.

What is the difference between a solder lug and a crimp lug?

excelguru · #6 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 09:53 AM

I second John's question. I think my cable was crimped from the factory (a short piece I purchased at Advance), but it's worth my checking into it. If mine is a crimped style (albeit factory crimped), should I still consider replacing it with a soldered one?

Excaliber · #7 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 10:03 AM

Factory crimp style is pretty good. Replace as it gets older and show wear is all I would do.

The crimp style shown in the pic is the standard connector you can buy at any auto shop. And they are a pain in the butt to get a good connection with. Difficult as heck to "crimp", to small to get a heavy gauge battery wire in and almost always unreliable.

Best over all solution? Buy a completed cable from a manufacturer. Otherwise, solder, heat shrink tubing is about the only YOU are going to get it right!

Ernie

Cobra20646 · #8 (**permalink**) 09-09-2003, 10:13 AM

It's been my belief, that solder connectors do not have a "split" along the portion that accepts the wire, and not 'hollow' as to allow the wire to pass through the "crimp" area.
The one in the photo above is a solder type. As you can see, the "cup" portion of the connector can be partially filled with molton solder, and while heating the connector, a pre-tined wire can be inserted and then allowed to cool. Great mechanical and electrical properties.

I have also used crimp connectors, and after crimping, have went the additional step of soldering the connection. I've seen too many crimp connectors fail after a period of time, either by poor crimping (wimpy-crimp), corrosion, or vibration.

As mentioned above by Mike, the use of heat shrink insulation will provide moisture protection after the connection is done.

These connections may take longer than simply stripping off the insulation and crimping on a lug, but in the long run you'll appreciate a trouble free soldered connection.

- Jim -