POR15- Engine Paint ?

FUNFER2 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 02:11 PM

Hello guys, has anyone used a product from a company called "Paint over rust" (POR 15) ? The "engine enamel paint" is what I'm checking into. I thought about painting my engine the same body color using the base/clear system. I have ground/sanded the iron block smooth. Now I'm not sure this is a good idea, it's a lot of work sanding the iron smooth, there's pin holes ect.... Plus, my body paint has a lot of metalic, not a solid color. If & when I need to touch- up any areas, matching it is very dufficult. This product from POR-15 states it's (Chevy Hi Performance Magazine review) "dries to a smooth, tough, extremely glossy finish" It comes in a kit & you brush it on. They have a new color that may..., come close to my body color called "Ford Corporate Blue" Has anyone used this product ?
Thanks,
kev

Mr.Fixit · #2 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 02:51 PM

I have painted engines with the same paint used on the car's body. As long as you don't paint the heads, there will not be discoloration. You must prime the block before painting however.

FUNFER2 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 02:57 PM

I'm assuming your saying the heads get too hot for base/clear paint ? I was a body man years ago & know how to paint, I did paint my cobra but, have never painted an engine with body paint, just the spray can.

Mr.Fixit · #4 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 03:17 PM

Yeah, the area around the exhaust ports gets too hot, changes color. Don't lay the primer and paint on any thinker than you absolutely have to.

Zderf · #5 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 08:03 PM

Painted the whole enchelada with POR 15 engine block paint. Used a foam brush... it self levels. That was nearly 4 years ago and regret to advise it looks much like it did the day I painted it... heads included.

The ONLY discoloration is under the headers... gotta be up on the Kwicklift with the dolly and trouble light to see it.

My votes a "10" for all POR products. Ask about thier Glisten PC for intakes and other raw aluminum surfaces...

Respectfully mentioned,

Zderf

FUNFER2 · #6 (**permalink**) 12-01-2003, 08:29 PM

Hey Zderf, sounds like I'll give it a go. Any hints or advise since you have used it ? Being cold weather has set in, does the paint just need room temp ? Did the foam brushes work better than the brush ? Give me all the poop you can bro !
Thanks,
Kev

Zderf · #7 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 05:54 AM

You may find it hard to work with under 40 degrees, and it won't self level quite as one would wish. Drying time will be much quicker at higher temps.

Foam or bristle really does not matter... I used foam for a cheap throw away option.

Cheers..

Zderf

zipzip · #8 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 07:54 AM

Although I haven't used POR 15 on my engine, I've used it just about everywhere else. I first used it on my Father in-law's Healey 3000. It's miraculous (sp?) stuff! Brush it on with the cheapie brushes and it will smooth out and shine better than powdercoat. Just remember to wear gloves and don't even bother trying to clean clothing that it gets on!

On my cobra, I've used the POR 20 high temp paint on the headers and sidepipes. Some friends have also used it on their musclecars and are very pleased. No flaking and only a 300 deg cure temp. I've also used the POR 15 and Chassis Black on the frame and other suspension pieces. The stuff is tough, easy to apply, and looks great.

I'm in a cold climate also and agree with Zderf; it won't level as good when it's cold. I did some of the final painting at near 40 deg and it looks good, but not as smooth as the stuff at 65 deg.

One tip: put a ziplock between the lid and can when resealing. If not, the lid is darn near impossible to remove once it dries. I've been using a separate cup for the painting and carefully wiping the lip on the can to maintain a clean seal. The stuff does have a somewhat short shelf life if exposed to air.

See my gallery pics for some of the results.

auto10x · #9 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 08:05 AM

POR is great stuff for the engine. Looks like it's an inch thick (self levels). I didn't like their "Ford" color so I painted over the POR with "old Ford" blue Krylon. Looks great (IMHO).
auto10x
Bill

FUNFER2 · #10 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 08:52 AM

Bill- the Ford blue you didn't like, was it the "Ford Blue" or the new "Ford Corporate"

Have any of you painted the block valley, under the intake manifold ? I've always been afraid of paint peeling, chipping ect. but have seen many engines done this way. If the POR-15 is that tough, I wonder if it would be worth it ? Hum....?

Guys, this product sounds like the way to go. I'll just heat the garage to room temp. before applying.

zipzip · #11 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 06:51 PM

I did the lifter valley in POR-15 with a topcoat of their Pelucid which is a very hard clearcoat (although looking back, the Glisten PC might have been better...). I was looking for a very smooth surface and thought the Pelucid would do the job. I'm sure it won't peel or chip: this stuff just doesn't peel off!

Eastwood also sells glyptal which is made for lifter valley coating. I think that has been used more often than POR-15. In my mind, they are equal for the job.

www.prp-porstore.com and www.eastwoodcompany.com

FUNFER2 · #12 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 08:07 PM

I may go ahead & paint the block valley & my valley tray.
Thanks Zip.

CSX 4027 · #13 (**permalink**) 12-02-2003, 08:47 PM

POR is good stuff
One problem..Be carefull and use breather equipment. The stuff will reduce you to a 3rd grader in no time. Also, with all the hi temp engine paint out there these days you might just find what you are looking for at the local speed shop. Try the othe 3 letter guys VHT.

FUNFER2 · #14 (**permalink**) 12-03-2003, 01:38 PM

Steve, I haven't used the "VHT" product either but, have seen their advertisment. I'll have to look into them.
Thanks,
Kev

Zderf · #15 (**permalink**) 12-03-2003, 02:05 PM

You are right about the VOC's in the POR15 product. You'll reduce yourself to a head of cabbage if spraying without proper resporator equipment.

The Pelucid (one part) clear is more for wood products... it gets tougher in wet conditions.... think sailboat rudders etc. I did my wood doors with it... Seattle rain makes it smile.

The Glisten PC is a two part product (shoot what you mix), is much better suited to aluminum, petrolium product resistance, and is good to 400+ degrees (Make sure your cross overs on the intake are blocked of). It is best applied by spraying, takes forever to totally cure, expensive, and is bullet proof. I think it is used by some wheel manufacturers as the clear coat.

Respectfully,

Zderf

Mr.Fixit · #16 (**permalink**) 12-03-2003, 03:56 PM

Glyptal is great, is it used for electric motors. It has been the standard for painting lifter valleys for decades.

DuckRyder · #17 (**permalink**) 01-01-2004, 06:43 PM

Sorry in advance for double posting this.

Which of POR's 3 "Ford Blues" is the closest to correct for a 390?

They Have:

Ford Blue
Ford Medium Blue
Ford Corporate Blue

It doesn't have to be exhibition correct just about the same color as what is usually called "Dark Ford Blue" in a spray bomb.

TIA

clb · #18 (**permalink**) 01-03-2004, 01:28 AM

You might find it a bit easier to apply if you sit the paint-tin in a container of hot water - helps to heat the paint and make it slightly less treacle-like!
unless of course you have (or want) arms like Popeye!