Cooling system

[G.R.]

I just rpalced the radiator, hoses etc. on this new to me NAF 289, the old radiator was full of crud and was dented badlly.

Question?--How or what do I do when refilling to prevent an airlock--what is the best method?

BTW I did back flush the engine before deciding to replace the radiator if that matters.

Rarely gets below freezing here and the car is in a heated garage.

I know enough to add distilled water and plan on adding "water wetter" or similar--would like to add some anti-freeze--How much?
Ratio?

Dumb question I know but .....

[TonyMadrid]

Hi,

I have a small block Ford and it's sometimes a problem getting all the air out of the system when filling it. You have to burp the air out. Some guys fill it then run the engine with the radiator cap off, wait 'til the thermostat opens and then rev the engine a bit to evacuate the air through the radiator cap. This method can be messy.

I installed a burp valve with a small piece of pipe into the intake manifold, where the heater hose fitting would go. I am not running a heater so I was able to use the manifold heater hose port. I installed a small length of pipe, then used an elbow and attached a brass drain or pet cock fitting. When I fill the system I keep the drain cock open allowing the air to escape.

I attached a picture of the burp valve I installed, just behind the thermostat housing and next to the distributor.

Tony

[Clois Harlan]

Tony's method is a great idea. My mechanical temp gauge prope goes in the port that Tony has installed his "burp" valve. I just leave my temp gauge fitting loose and as I fill my radiator and I wait for the fluid to start to come out and then I close it off and finish my fill. Then I will start my engine and let it warm up to operating temp and then I will barely crack "open" my temp gauge fitting and basically burp the system. This has worked well for me.

Clois

[Okiesnake]

I have a SB too and a heater. I burped the system by loosening the water temp sending unit when I filled the system.

[scr11]

Tony - Do you have a part number handy for the thermostat housing? I'm switching from a brass expansion tank to stainless and now I need a thermostat housing.
This is for a 351W by the way.
Thanks.
Scott, SPF#1230 / 393

[Bruce Edwards]

Antifreeze is not just for cold weather it is an antirust inhibitor as well. We drill a small hole in the stat to let the air out as it is filled. The small 1/8 hole does not effect the stats ability to regulate the engine temp. Antifreeze also has a lubricator for the water pump seal. Always a good idea to use antifreeze.

[scottj]

Originally posted by G.R.


Question?--How or what do I do when refilling to prevent an airlock--what is the best method?

The correct and by far the best method is to run a surge tank (differs from an expansion tank).

Here's a link to the details- The discription is under "Radiator Cap Location" .
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...t/techtip2.asp

Scott

[Bruce Edwards]

One other small thing I forgot to say. If you do not have a recovery system for the cooling you will always have air mixed in the system. The only way to get best cooling is with a overflow recovery tank.

[scr11]

Tony - Don't worry about the housing part number. I found out today there's lots of 351W housings and the one on your engine is not going to fit my tank. Thanks anyway.

Scott, SPF#1230 / 393

[Bob Perry]

Gary, I know this may be a drive for you but go see the guys at Performance radiator in tacoma on south tacoma way, they can answer all your questions , they have been a big help to me....Bob.

[wilf leek]

Every single Cobra replica I have seen here in the UK with cooling problems had no surge tank. I echo Scott's comments.

I never even have to burp my engine on refilling the cooling system - the surge tank does it just fine. There has to be a moral here.