wiring diagrams?

rbray · #1 (**permalink**) 05-20-2004, 09:39 PM

Hi Guys.
I suppose I'm not the only kit car builder that is having trouble wiring his car.
We had the car running until we noticed that the battery was over charging, so we tried to install a voltage regulator.
As a result I'm afraid we fried something. Now the amp meter shows full power drain as soon as I put in the kill switch and the car will turn over but not start. We put the wiring back to our original wiring configuration ( pre voltage regulator install ) and the same thing happens. I'm hoping that we did not fire the MSD.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has a diagram that shows how to wire an externally regulated alternator, voltage regulator and an MSD box together.
I would be greatful for any help

trularin · #2 (**permalink**) 05-21-2004, 05:29 AM

Intense.

The voltage regulator shouldn't have anything to do with the MSD box ( at least I don't think so )

Anyway, your alternator has three important wires attached or should be attached to it. A #10 wire that goes to the battery. it is usually marked "Batt" it is the red terminal on the part. There may be one or two grounds. These look like connection terminals, but are NOT. From what you indicate, you might have connected something to one of these.

Anyhow, there is a "Field" terminal which connects to the four terminal voltage regulator on the connector marked "FLD". On the alternator the three terminals will be isolated with plastic washers, these are NOT grounds.

ANd the last terminal is the "Stator". It is rare, but the stator is usually not connected. If it is used, it is a wire that goes between the Alternator and regulator. It is the termianl "STA" on the regulator.

The regulator has four terminals plus the frame. The frame is the ground and MUST be grounded ( engine ground is real good ). The terminals are "I", "A", "S", "F" on regulators that are the new electronics versions. "I" is for ignition, "A" is for Alternator ( the battery connection ), "S" is for Stator, generally not used but is a nice indicator the alternator is working and "F" is field, this must go to the alternator or it will not work.

In it's most basic form, connect the battery terminal from the alternator to the battery and the "A" terminal on the regulator. Connect the "FLD" terminal on the alternator to the "F" terminal on the regulator. DO NOT connect any other wire and run the car.

If you get voltage from the stator on the alternator, it is working. Check the voltage at the battery. It should be no more than 15.2V ( I think ).

It has been a long time since I worked on this, so if I got the stator and field mixed up, SORRY.

Just trying to help.

trularin · #3 (**permalink**) 05-21-2004, 06:01 AM

Okay, I have a diagram of a 1965 T'Bird wiring in the gallery.

You can go there and get the diagram to see how the regulator is connected to the alternator.

Hope this helps.

slithering · #4 (**permalink**) 05-21-2004, 06:37 AM

Roger,

The voltage regulator is the heart of the electrical system, without it you'll have peaks and valleys in voltage. With what you have described, you may have an alternator grounding out. I would have it checked. When the alternator is unregulated, it can actually damage itself. Let me know what you find.

Chris

rbray · #5 (**permalink**) 05-21-2004, 07:00 AM

Thank you everyone for your help.
My first step is to isolate the cause of my amp draw when I put in the kill switch.
It's strange. I put the switch in and for a few seconds the needle does not move. Then it swings off scale negative.