Coolant Leak

MrMagoo · #1 (**permalink**) 08-07-2004, 07:37 PM

Hi everybody. I have a 351w with an Edelbrock Performer 351 manifiold. I have a persistent leak underneath my water outlet that I am having a hard time fixing. The leak is directly at the bottom where the outlet meets the manifold. The outlet is one of those chrome jobs with a circular rubber o-ring type gasket. I checked the gasket, it seems in good shape. I tightened the two bolts up to 15 ft lbs. Drip drip drip at pressure... tightening the bolts more made the thing spray even more. The manifold is not *visibly* cracked down there.

Should I use silicone with this type of water outlet? Any ideas?

casaleenie · #2 (**permalink**) 08-07-2004, 07:54 PM

possibly warped?

MrMagoo · #3 (**permalink**) 08-07-2004, 09:00 PM

The outlet I'm hoping you're thinking, not the manifold...

DC COBRA · #4 (**permalink**) 08-07-2004, 09:54 PM

MRMAGOO

Whenever you said that you tightened the bolts more it started leaking worse that puppy is warped. I have had alot problems with the chrome looking waternecks with the o-rings, most are imported and they suck. Try a nice one like a CSI billet unit, no more worries and can will it to your grand kids, they are that good.

DON

MrMagoo · #5 (**permalink**) 08-08-2004, 07:21 AM

dccobra,

Thanks. Just ordered CSI-9111C.

Why do we bolt 9 dollar parts on $5000 engines? When the 9 dollar part fails at 2500 miles and takes us off the road , the $40,000 car with the $5000 motor starts to get a reputation with the misses for being a garage queen.

DC COBRA · #6 (**permalink**) 08-08-2004, 09:16 AM

MrMAGOO

The next time that I build a COBRA, I am moving to CT, man we don't have any 9 dollar parts, or $5000 engines or any $40000 cars here in TEXAS, you can just about triple all them figures. Though we do have alot of misses and mistresses.

GOOD LUCK
DON

Zoom This · #7 (**permalink**) 08-09-2004, 11:15 AM

Had the very same problem on my 418 stroker with an Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake and a chrome water outlet bolted to the manifold by the engine builder. Fixed mine by removing the water outlet and cleaning all surfaces. When you place the thermostat into the water outlet use some fast dry adhesive like Permatex Weatherstrip Cement. That will keep the thermostat in place while you place the water oulet against the manifold. Make sure you have a new gasket, ditch the rubber o-ring job. Place RTV sealant onto both surfaces, put RTV sealant onto each bolt and wrench it down to 15-20 lbs. After the motor is hot and has cooled off again, retorque bolts if needed. Like Don said, get a good billet water outlet and you'll be happy with zero water leaks!

Jack21 · #8 (**permalink**) 08-09-2004, 05:09 PM

I used the chrome o-ringed piece, but used similar installation technique.

Used a couple of drops of "Super Glue" to hold thermosat in place. They will slip out of place. Used "Permatex" on o-ring gasket, bolt threads, and hose ends. No leaks.

MrMagoo · #9 (**permalink**) 08-09-2004, 08:19 PM

Very useful tips as usual.

Thanks to all.

Any suggestions on the proper way to fill the cooling system would be appreciated.
How much coolant, pct mix, avoiding air pockets, etc.

Zoom This · #10 (**permalink**) 08-10-2004, 01:41 PM

When I drained my cooling system to do the leak fix, I drained out about 6-7 quarts and saved it to put back in. A 50/50 mix is good if you are doing a compete coolant replacement. My SPF holds 12 quarts of coolant. Fill the motor and radiator cold, put on the radiator cap (to avoid bubbling out etc.) and start the motor and let it run until warm - watch temp gauge. Turn off motor and slowly release the cap pressure and check level and fill as needed.