"Sidepipe Information Needed......."

jcl79383 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-02-2005, 12:56 PM

I know there are "several" sidepipe configurations being used from a lot of different manufacturers.

Information I really need is the measurement from where the "J" pipes end, (outside the body) to the furthest tip point. If there is a "collector", how long is it, (generally about 5.5") and what diameter is it. (most are 3.5", and the tip as well) Also what manufacturers kit you have.

I'm trying to come up with a replacement sidepipe kit that will fit most of the Cobra replica's out there.

Also do most Cobra owners need the "muffler bulge" look for there sidepipes, or will a straight sidepipe work as well.

I appreciate your help with this ahead of time. Thanks, JCL

jcl79383 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-02-2005, 04:36 PM

I have been informed that maybe what I knew as the "J" pipes, are really the four into one pipes. That is the measurement needed from that point to the tip.

Thanks Jack for the correction........... JCL

flowking · #3 (**permalink**) 02-02-2005, 04:50 PM

Sidepipes from outside the 90deg. bend to the tip of the spill is 54", at least the pipes that Red Shark engineering builds are that length and they fit a Kirkham or a Shelby.

jcl79383 · #4 (**permalink**) 02-02-2005, 04:55 PM

Thanks Flowking. That's what I need.

flowking · #5 (**permalink**) 02-02-2005, 04:56 PM

Your quite welcome !

Jack21 · #6 (**permalink**) 02-05-2005, 05:48 PM

You can do some of us a favor, and make sidepipe heat shields. Right now, nobody makes them. I make my own set. They look factory, and no leg or clothing burns.

At DVSF in '03, I think I had the only car with sidepipe heat shields. My wife had almost a continuous stream of comments, questions, and photo shots from other wives and significant others concerning the effectiveness of the shields. e.g., they looked good, and worked well.

stevem · #7 (**permalink**) 02-05-2005, 06:07 PM

I have ceramic coated headers and sidepipes on my smallblock and they run so cool I've never come close to a burn. They look nice also.

jcl79383 · #8 (**permalink**) 02-05-2005, 07:18 PM

Jack21. Last year I was making them for Hooker Sidepipe set ups for Vette's. A short version, (21.0") and long version. (31.0") ALL 304SS, and the shields were SOLID, not perforated like the Cobra ones on the market know. One Cobra forum member has a set which were coated instead of polished. They were not inexpensive, but worked at keeping you burn free. Looked great.
Need interest and I might start making them again.

As far as the coatings dropping temps that much on sidepipes, I would really have to see that "live" to say it worked. Sidepipes really get HOT...........

Still looking for more measurements on different sidepipe set ups.

Back in Black. If you have time, send me your numbers......

Thanks, JCL

Hotfingrs · #9 (**permalink**) 02-06-2005, 02:43 AM

At Spring Fling 2003, I had a pair of heat shields on my car made by jcl79383. They were made of stainles, as he states, and did the job very well. Of course one side got distroyed at the end of the airport run on Sunday.

Double Venom · #10 (**permalink**) 02-06-2005, 04:17 AM

jcl,
Straight pipes would work, but the 'bullitt' or bulge is the traditional style.

DV, Jack got your message, you didn't sound excited

I'll call you today.

jcl79383 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-06-2005, 07:51 AM

DV. There's no problem doing the "traditional" bulge type sidepipe. It would be a 4.0" sidepipe, and a 4.50" bulge or bullitt. I don't think you could really tell from the stock 3.5" sidepipe, and the 4.0" muffler bulge. The bulge would be just for "looks." A full 4.0" OD sidepipe and baffle set up is what you would have.

Jack (Hotfingrs) did end up with a prototype 3.50" set of sidepipes, with the for looks only bullitt. Much better flow with the 4.0" pipes.

Anymore measurements for length's of different sidepipes is welcome.

I am going to make it down to the fling this year.....JCL

Jack21 · #12 (**permalink**) 02-07-2005, 09:16 PM

Coated sidepipes still get hot, but do cool down faster. The sidepipe heat shield, sitting just 1/4" away from the muffler I can hold my hand on with the engine running. The top is warm, the sides are cool.

With a 30" muffler, the shield is 40" x 7" perforated steel sheet. Stainless is not used as it retains, rather than rejects heat as the coated piece does, and the coating provides corrosion resistance.

The shield is rolled into a 4 1/2" dia semicircle (prior to coating), small brackets are installed on each end, then fastened in place with stainless hose clamps on the inlet and outlet 3" sections.

Simple, not particularly expensive, durable, looks factory, and most importantly no leg burns or melted clothing.

Build a couple of sets, and see what happens.

jcl79383 · #13 (**permalink**) 02-08-2005, 01:20 PM

The shields I have made in the past are 304 SS, but are solid not perforated. The ones with "holes" remind me too much of the "lil red wagon" pick up Dodge had back in the 70's or so..... I found that 3/8" stand offs were the way to go to keep the shield cool, with enough air moving over top of the sidepipe. My shields also you could lay your hand on it and not get burnt. The trick here is to transfer ALL the heat from the sidepipes, to the attaching cap head bolts (2- small round head). These are the only area to avoid touching, plus it's easy to take off the shields to clean the pipes without taking all the brackets off......Shields can be polished, coated, or chromed.......... Unlike Jack21's these are not inexpensive, but do the intended job and look great. To do this on a sidepipe with a muffler "bulge" takes a little more doing. Basic sizes I did were 7.0" X 21.0" X 16Ga.304SS, or 7.0" X 31.0" X 16Ga. 304SS. ALL hardware was also SS..........No rust.......JCL