What kit would you recomend

[RC14]

I am sure you here this alot but i am in the market for a 66 Cobra and i see they are alot of brands. I will probably get the basic body and frame 3 or 4 year project for me and my son. i will go with the big block 427 and ford 9" with 4 or 5 speed not sure on trany. on a budget so what would you recomend.

Thanks.

[clayfoushee]

Welcome RC. You came to the right place.

I would recommend that you read the volumes and volumes of information that has been posted here over the years. This question has been asked and answered literally thousands of times on this forum.

You won't find a clear answer because there isn't one, and there are almost as many opinions as there are people here. It all depends on how much you have to spend and the level of your automotive expertise.

[jdog]

Shelby CSX!

jdog
P.S. They need the working capitol!

[Excaliber]

A couple of points:
Deal with someone that has a great (not just good) reputation.
Builders come and go, find one that's been around and WILL be around.

Down the road you will need various "parts", that may not be in the "kit". Those parts will be easier to find through a number of outlets if you stay with a well recognized manufacturer.

The replica market varies widely in it's approach to "originality" vs your "re-interpretation" of the car. 427 is a good call, put's you on a path toward "originality", but to what degree? 5 speed is good, but not original. Go with a 5 speed BUT try to get one with the reverse shifter so you keep the "look" original. Another option and save a few dollars, go with a 428. Many owner/builders opt for a small block, which is "correct" ONLY in the 289 FIA body style replica. But the small block works well and saves cash!

9" (or a newer 8.8) saves some money over IRS and it is more "original". It generally has a smoother ride. MORE expensive and difficult to build how ever.

There are three KEY items to retaining the "correct" look and feel. I would NOT compromise on these.
The right BODY shape or close as possible to it, they vary a LOT. The WHEELS! Custom wheels might look "cool" to you, but you may be the only one that thinks so!
The trans SHIFTER, got to be a "reverse" linkage setup.

After those key items I would consider the "look" of the interior. The dash, cutsom wood or custom stainless steel can look "great", but it's a dead give a way the car is a "re-interpretation" of the original. The gauges AND where the gauges are placed.

The roll bar has a HUGE impact on the "look". Safety says get a full width bar that covers driver and passenger. Some go with two hoops, one per seat. Looks more original with a single hoop, tough call here on what to do!

Generally speaking the closer to "original" the more the cost.

You don't have to be 100% dedicated to original "look and feel" but it's important to KNOW what that is/was and where you CHOOSE to be different.

For instance, BDR uses BMW suspension, it's good stuff, hi tech, but hardly original. Then again, you can't "see" those parts! I'm not sure that make will accept a 427 however. With the BMW trans you probably cannot get the right look with the shifter.

Hunter, out of Florida, uses Vette suspension, how does this impact your engine choice is the kind of question to ask. How does the over all "look and feel" compare to other makes?

FFR is VERY common, been around a LONG time, WILL be here down the road. The body is "close", but not all would agree "close enough". Typical FFR runs a small block, but SOME do run a 427.

Classic Roadster is a little wider and longer, I had a replica very similiar to the C.R. and like the added room and comfort. Eventually I wanted to get more "real" and went with an ERA for more originality. But there is a HUGE price difference between the two.

Curt Scott's, "The Complete Guide to Cobra Replicas" (4th edition) is a must read for a newbie. You can find it here, at the "Cobra Book Store" link on Curts site.
http://www.cobracountry.com/home2.html

Good hunting!

[rdorman]

Originally posted by RC14


I am sure you here this alot but i am in the market for a 66 Cobra and i see they are alot of brands. I will probably get the basic body and frame 3 or 4 year project for me and my son. i will go with the big block 427 and ford 9" with 4 or 5 speed not sure on trany. on a budget so what would you recomend.

Thanks.

Budget and 427 don't normally go hand in hand. Do some searching and read up. LOTS of information here. Decide on budget and use.

Sounds like a great father-son project. Best of luck to you!

Rick

[HI Cobra]

RC14,

Welcome to the club.

I'll echo what some of the others have said. First thing is to research what
you want want in the way of the finished Cobra. As Ernie suggested, Curt
Scott's 4th edition of his "The Complete Guide to Cobra Replicas" is an
excellent resource for about $30 that provides info on many different
replicas. Do a search on here at CC for particular models and you will get a
wealth of info - pros and cons of each type.

Another consideration in your selection should be the availability of help
from the maker in case you run into problems (very frustrating if no one
answers the phone or emails). Unless you are very experienced at auto
wrenching I'd recommend picking a kit that isn't too complicated in the
work involved to complete it. A lot start out but get burned out due to build
difficulty and unanticipated expence requirements.

Figure your budget first. With a three or four year build, once you get the kit
you have time to finance additional components which is a lot easier on
your budget.

The best thing you will get from this project is quality time with your son and
a rare opportunity to learn and work together through a large project with a
great end result. The biggest problem when you are finished is who gets to drive it when!

As far as originality goes - concentrate on what you want on this one, it doesn't
have to be the last one, so you can aleays head down that path later if you wish.

Do your homework first, then enjoy the journey. You are off to a great start.

[Art Burtt]

Having built one I would suggest Classic Raodsters due to ease of instruction and quailty of the kit. Technical assistance is excellent too. While a little longer and wider, the exrta wheel base improves the ride and additional size inside is comfortable.
Cost is probably 20K to 50K depending on use of new or re-cycled parts.

[grumpy]

RC14,

One will be delivered in your backyard in two months that could fool most show judges that built out at less than $30K or one this month that is almost the same at $36K, difference alum hood, doors, original Halibrands, and 427FE (TO) on a 66 NASCAR toploader.
It's more in what you select and your ability in holding the budget that defines the final cost.

Very few manufacturers list the exact items as a package being the same. All beat on their chest and state "theirs is the best" and then there are the loyalists owners that demand "theirs is the best".

A tough area in the street to play in since the traffic has increased over the years.

grumpy

[JayBar]

Excaliber , FYI while the Backdraft uses BMW suspention parts ,forward of the differential is the builders choice for engine and trans. Yes a FE will fit, if a 4.6DOC will fit so will the FE.

As to which kit to pruchase the most important thing is not to be duped by the manufacturers projections. No matter how long it takes and how good a wrencher you are parts cost what they cost. I built a Basic FFR (302ci) and had $23,000 in it.
Your not going to buy a kit for 12,900(plus crate and shipping) and a wrecked Mustang for $500.00 and spend 4 years and end up with a Cobra.
Check out the information on this forum. It will give you a "feel" for the real cost of a decent Cobra.

[ENTDOC]

RC,I live in Greenville and you are welcome to come by and see my two cobras. I started out to have a father /son project and researched a good bit.I went with a Hunter 427 and it turned out great and the cost was comparable to a FFR.There are several FFR owners in our area and all are good guys eager to help when a problem arises.My son and I had such a good experience building the Hunter that I bought a Kirkham roller that I am in the process of completing. You can call anytime(292-6889) and I will share my experience on the different kits and the plus and munuses as I see them. chuck

[Bruce Edwards]

One other thing you need to take into consideration is yours and your son's skill level. Some kits are easier to finish than others. You need to figure out realistically what you can and can not do on your build. Some folks feel better doing engines and suspension work and others would rather do the body work and not mess with the rest of it. Remember every time you drive your car you are relying on your skill to get you from point A to point B SAFELY.
Above all read all you can and talk to as many people that you can. Call kit suppliers as well as builders and real customers of the cars you are thinking about doing. Get as much info as you can as it is YOUR money you are spending so you need to be sure of what you are getting as well as happy with the final result.
There is a reason they call them kit cars. Just do not fall for the "You can have your car on the road in less than 2 weeks" line of bull. Most kits will take you 100 hours just for the body work. If you can not do that kind of work add at least $4,000 to the cost of the car for the body and paint work.
Above all have fun and do not be afraid to ask for help. To many cars never get finished by the first owner due to a lack of ability or a bad time with the kit and the supplier.

[Dwight]

I researched for 18 months before I bought my kit from a dealer in Tenn. I thought that I would buy the KIT and all the parts necessary to finish the KIT. Then I would just bolt everything together. I had to rework fiberglass, cut and weld, body work, electrical, suspension, drive shafts, motor mounts, everything, I had to make a lot of parts and rework most of the other parts. I have learn that new parts do not bolt on a kit car!! New parts don't work and you have to remove them and take them back to the parts store. We have 10 Cobras in town of all different manufactors, all builders have the same experience. It's the Cobra Kit car joke around here. I have 2000 hours in my car. I have gone back and changed a lot of things. I did not have this web site to help me and my "dealer" gave me a lot of bad advice and sold me parts that would not work. And I made some parts that I could have bought. Most kits done correctly by first time builders take twice as long as the advertised time. I have not seen a manual that tell you everything you need to know to assemble the kit. Find a couple of local guys who have built a kit car and call on them ( a lot ). And there is CLUB COBRA the best resource on the planet.
BOY IS SURE DOES FEEL GOOD TO SOLVE A CAR PROBLEM. AND WHEN YOU MAKE A PART THAT LOOKS GOOD AND WORKS, THAT IS A GREAT FEELING.
Jump on in! We'll talk you thu it.

See you in OHIO in JUNE

Dwight

[Excaliber]

Thanks for that up-date of the BDR JayB, sounds good!

[302cobra]

Wow!! Lots of different recommendations!! I was just browsing the Midstates (www.midstatesclassics.com) website and they look pretty good to me.

[302cobra]

Yeah, Lots of guys reckon that a kit is like a model car, you get a box of bits that will just bolt on. They have no idea how wrong that is. Also lots of manufacturers reckon their kit wont try your patience. That is totally wrong too!! Theres always going to be something that pi**es you off!!

[302cobra]

I Like the midstates cos the top edges of the doors are nicely rolled and so is the part above the dash (whats it called??!!), where the demister (if you've got one) vents usually are. If you check out my gallery you'll see that its pretty rough. The doors are OK and will be better after some body prep. I dont know how much legroom they have though, but if you want it really authentic it does matter!!! But if I bought one I wouldnt really want my ankles by my ears. I'll put a pic of the footwell of my cobra in my gallery, theres lotza legroom!!

[RC14]

Guys thank you for the advise and i will be reading up on here for sure, I have been wrenching all my life, I had a few mopars back in the last 70s drag raced one of them raced motocross for a few years and my oldest son raced for 15 years he has gave it up(feel in love he thinks) i was his wrench for all of that. so i need some thing to do with my little man and he is only 9 so i will be driving it for a few years anyway. i am not much on wiring but all else i can do, I also have a ever good friend that is a very good paint and body man so that will be left up to him.
I have to finish my garage project that i am on right now before i buy one so i will read up alot

I have a 1969 429 thunder jet out of a thunder bird that i will rebuild for this project and a 4 speed toploader but would like a 5 speed will just have to see on trany.

Thanks you guys for your help and Chuck i will be calling you for sure.

[302cobra]

I also like the Midstates because you can remove the body and just work on the chassis. And you have the option of a square or round tube chassis, I would go for round tube for a bit of authenticity

[HSSS427]

I sent a lot of time with my nose in books, on web sites, asking questions but the best thing is to try and drive or see in person as many different cars as you can. Local Cobra Clubs are great for this because when they get together you can see lots of different cars all at once, and can probably talk your way into a ride and maybe a drive. Look at all the fit and finish items, and pay particular attention to the things that are inherent to the body and not just design choices by the builder. You can swap out engines, suspension, tranny, but hard to swap out the body design. And believe me, Cobra owners seem to be a very candid bunch - ask them what they like, don't like, and what they'd do in your shoes. You'll usually get honest answers to all these questions.

Sounds like you want to do this for the fun of building as much as owning, but the market is still pretty good to pick up a used car and you might find yourself coming out better on total cost.

I have an ERA that I bought already built and still have had plenty of projects and work to do on it so it's not like once it's done you just let it sit and drive whenever. I've found that ERA's support has been very good even though I wasn't the original buyer. The comments about "how original do you want to be" are spot on. It's a philisophical debate you can, and will, have the rest of the time you own the car. So, best to get comfortable with your own philosophy now as it's more expensive to change it later.

Oh yeah one more - make sure to ask your wife what color she likes!

Good Luck!

[RC14]

Thank you HSSS427 I have been looking at all the kits (or all that i have found) and ordered info from most. The Alum bodyed kit is out, To much nice car i am sure, I have noticed that buying parts a little at a time will for sure cost me more, Can you or some one send me a list og manufactures o do not want to miss anybody.
I did get a reply from a Guy from my area that i do plain on calling to talk to him about his likes and dislikes, I seen one on the road in the Duncan Lyman area the other day as well, Sweet Sound it was,

Thanks for all your help guys, I am even looking around for project people have gave up on.