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04-11-2005, 12:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Scotts Valley,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2108
Posts: 1,882
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Not Ranked
Chevy Tahoe question
Okay, okay, I know it's not a Cobra, but I figure somebody on CC has some knowledge on the subject. (Besides, everyone needs a tow vehicle, right?)
I need to replace the electric window motor on my driver's door on my 2001 Chevy Tahoe. I know the problem is the motor, for I've checked all of my fuses and have also determined that there is power to the switch, but no motor movement.
The problem: I've done this before on other vehicles, but it seems like every time I take the interior door panels off I rip out some of the partical board of the panel, leaving the clip in the door. I think my technique is off. I use a screw driver and pry under the panel until I find a clip, and then pry under the clip. Sound right? Perhaps I'm getting too impatient and need to work on the Zen thing...
The question: How do I remove a door panel without screwing it up, rendering the reinstallation substandard?
Doug
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Dangerous Doug
"You're kidding, right?"
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04-11-2005, 04:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Go to a body shop supply company, or your friendly Snap On or Mac tool truck and get the specific tool made for this task. Leave the screwdriver on the work bench. It looks like a wide, relatively thin pry bar with a groove macined in it for the clip to slide into, then the additional surface area will assist in prying the panel away from the door assemly. BTW I think GM only sell a complete window motor and regulator as an assembly.
Rick
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Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
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04-11-2005, 05:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Carrollton,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1968 Shelby Cobra GT500
Posts: 58
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Not Ranked
Most auto parts stores carry this tool for under $10.
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04-11-2005, 09:50 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Scotts Valley,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2108
Posts: 1,882
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Not Ranked
Thanks, guys. I ordered the motor and regulator assembly this afternoon. I'll head down to look for the pry tool this week.
__________________
Dangerous Doug
"You're kidding, right?"
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04-11-2005, 10:22 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Montgomery,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: CR 427 S/C, 351W, 5 Sp & KMP142 - 427 SO, 4 Spd
Posts: 2,212
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Not Ranked
Even though it is thick I have had no problems using a brake drum
adjustment type tool to remove door panels (has two different angles
with a notch in the middle of each end). Napa would probably be a
good place to find the correct tool but this will work just fine in a pinch.
Have fun with the change out!
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Flip
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04-12-2005, 05:02 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
Just did two GM doors, One for a lock cylinder and the other latch.
You need an assortment of "special tools" that make the job easier. The flat forked "panel popper" is a snap on tool. A 90 degree bent screwdriver ( make this one ). A retaining ring compression pliers ( made this one ). 9/32 nut driver. 1/4" pop rivets and gun.
First and formost is proceedure. One of the doors I just did was on a Tahoe. The lock mechanizum, arm rest bracket and lower guide panel are all pop riveted in place. Make sure you have enough rivets to completely replace them. They are aluminum, use aluminum replacements.
So, you unbolt the two bolts ar the arm rest and the beauty ring around the door controls. Remove the door mirror access panel, it will be either a screw or snaps. Be careful of the wires, three connections; speakers, door controls and light. All unplug except the light. It is easier to just remove the entire lamp and socket assembly.
Use the flat fork to pop the white hold downs out. Chances are you will pop a few out of the steel, thats okay, they can be undone. Start poping at the bottom and swing the door panel out from the bottom without lifting.
Once you have it out and the white hold downs are unpluged, wires disconnected, you can lift gently until the top separates from the window channel. Set the panel aside.
The motor will be in the lower right hand area and I find it easier to work on if the window is up.
I hope this helps.
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I'm a writer, feed the artist and buy a book.
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04-12-2005, 08:25 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Scotts Valley,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2108
Posts: 1,882
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Not Ranked
trularin, thanks for the detailed procedure. I've got the motor/regulator on order. Now, when it arrives I won't be blindly plowing forward. Cheers, Dangerous Doug
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Dangerous Doug
"You're kidding, right?"
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04-13-2005, 08:10 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Abe Lincolns Birthplace,
Ky
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX4761, KCR Shelby Alloy 496,760hp
Posts: 867
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Not Ranked
I've had to replace both window motors in my 2000 GMC sierra,the key to the panel stays is patience,if you use slight constant pressure they pop out with out pulling from the partical board panel,for a once in a while job you dont need special tools,,no tool at all is best .just steady gentle fingers on each side.
I got my last drive on line from an auto parts sourcer for close to half the dealer price,,I think the dealer was like 150.00 ,,its a joke as weak as these things are. good luck,,Tim
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Tk
"this whole Adult thing just isnt working for me "
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04-23-2005, 03:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Scotts Valley,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2108
Posts: 1,882
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Not Ranked
Just finished. This turned out to be about a 1 hour job. The key is to take off the mirror access panel, the window switch panel (note the screw holding in the large door panel), the panel around the door release handle, and then pop out the lock switch and seat control switch. There are two screws, one on the very bottom of the door, and then one near the grab handle. With these out, you can lift up on the large door panel and pretty much take it loose, fitting the electrical wiring through the holes. I only had to disconnect a speaker and pull the light out of the door panel. The rest of the electrical I left connected, and just fitted them through the holes on the large door panel.
One trick I did was to put duct tape on the window to hold it in place while I removed the door regulator. There are two bolts, one on each end of the window, that hold the window to the regulator. Loosen these, and then take out the six bolts holding the window regulator in place.
When replacing the regulator, bolt the new one in place and plug in the connector, turn the key on and roll the window up, then tighten the two bolts at each end of the window.
The only thing I would do differently is have some light adhesive on hand for the weather protective film. I ened up using a light glue, so it'll be a pain in the butt the next time I need to go in there.
Not a bad job, though. And thanks for the tips, for I managed to keep my patience while using the right tools and didn't damage anything...
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Dangerous Doug
"You're kidding, right?"
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